Can Daconil and Neem Oil be safely applied together?

[QUOTE=uzlaguzla;631451]Can Daconil and Neem Oil be safely applied together?[/QUOTE]


I think that the makers of Daconil recommend no mixing with other things. I believe it was Carolyn that posted that information a while back.

Bill

Very interesting article here Bill, I have tried your technique ages ago. Daconil I do like a lot but Heritage DF 50 is my top choice for a severe problem, especially on trees with high levels of anthracnose issues. I personally had a great year this year in my hydroponic outside garden. I absolutely did not use any fungicide the whole year making adjustments with my shade cloth for more airflow and pruning more heavily from the start. Of course a little luck may have played a part, but it is pretty good results considering where I live.

last year, not knowing just what i had - wilting, brown leaves, slugs and bugs i used every 3 days or so: one day draconil 3 days later neem/w alcohol and soap, 3 days later very dilute cl2, 3 days later Seranade, 3 days later copper stuff did great really, got me through the hot humid times and i always was a bit UNDER recommended strengths that was 2 plots one next to a corn feild and one at the house in a subdivision just west on Indy In. i am no pro but studying like crazy the year before i lost 1/2 the plot near the corn, this year lost 1/5 and picked tom's till 11/12/2016 ripened slowly in garage and still ate in 1/2017 not good threw out

[QUOTE=beefyboy;631605]Very interesting article here Bill, I have tried your technique ages ago. Daconil I do like a lot but Heritage DF 50 is my top choice for a severe problem, especially on trees with high levels of anthracnose issues. I personally had a great year this year in my hydroponic outside garden. I absolutely did not use any fungicide the whole year making adjustments with my shade cloth for more airflow and pruning more heavily from the start. Of course a little luck may have played a part, but it is pretty good results considering where I live.[/QUOTE]

Last year most of the summer was exceedingly dry with corresponding lower humidity. I had very few problems with diseases except some early blight early in the season and some gray mold on some of my black varieties. I did use sprays but not regularly and didn't need my bleach spray except for the gray mold. I find that the worst problems occur in wetter seasons with extremely high humidity and late in the summer if it starts that pattern of raining for a few minutes every afternoon.

Keeping the plants pruned will certainly help with the incidence of foliage problems especially in areas with high humidity. Another thing that helps with diseases is having the plants insulated with a good mulch from the soil and if you grew in containers that is a further plus; but don't count on it happening again this year. I can remember one summer that was cooler and far dryer than most years with fairly low humidity and I had almost no disease problems. The trouble with those years is they are too few and too far between down here. I also live in an area that has a lot of commercial tomato growers and that just increases all the problems that can plague tomatoes. I have heard that some of them are spraying with alternating fungicides every 5 days til harvest. That seems excessive to me but I will try to get mine sprayed every week to 10 days unless really low humidity moves in and then I may spread the spraying out a bit.

The biggest problem I faced last year was spider mites during the dry weather. I have never seen them as bad as they were last summer. I sure hope they don't return again like that.

Bill

Thank you for your time, Bill.

All of my tomatoes have recovered. I did not pull any. The micro dwarfs suffered the most but somehow put on fruit with burnt leaves and they look like nuclear fallout mixed with Solent green. Life finds a way.

...I harvested a few of the micro dwarves cherries tonight for a fine shrimp pasta dish. Don't make me cry.

May I ask a question about misting?

I keep reading, "it only needs a light misting", or "only give it a mist, don't saturate it till runoff" and such things all over the forum regarding spraying.

So, the sprayer I have says it will "mist" and yet I don't get a mist from it, or from any other sprayer that says it will "mist".

So, how do you get a mist?

[QUOTE=Rockporter;641659]May I ask a question about misting?

I keep reading, "it only needs a light misting", or "only give it a mist, don't saturate it till runoff" and such things all over the forum regarding spraying.

So, the sprayer I have says it will "mist" and yet I don't get a mist from it, or from any other sprayer that says it will "mist".

So, how do you get a mist?[/QUOTE]

Usually there is an adjustable nozzle at the tip of sprayer.

[QUOTE=pmcgrady;641674]Usually there is an adjustable nozzle at the tip of sprayer.[/QUOTE]

This is the one I have, although I have had others like the hand held chapin and the other chapin similar to this one. Neither of them actually give a mist, it's either a very wide spray or a heavy spray.

This one is the yellow attachement for vegetable spraying but it goes out into a fan, but it still saturates everything no matter how pumped I can get the sprayer. The tip is not adjustable to a fine mist. I haven't found any around here that are. It had far better reviews when I bought it than it does now though. The spray is good, it is just a spray, not a mist.

[URL]https://www.lowes.com/pd/Smith-2-Gallon-Plastic-Tank-Sprayer/4193785[/URL]

I've been using the bleach spray on my plants for a few weeks, but as Bill warns against, I think is waited too late. They're all completely stripped of foliage and just have a few bare fruits hanging on trying to get ripe. It's pretty pathetic looking. I'm about to chop everything down and start over.

Moral of the story, as Bill has said many times, its better to be on top of the bleach spray when you see symptoms than wait too long.


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We've had quite a bit of rain. Knowing that Daconil won't stick I used Bill's Bleach spray tonight. I took his advice and used a weaker solution on the bottom leaves of my tomatoes and squash.

It's raining again tonight so there should be no residue by tomorrow.

It will be interesting to see what happens.

It's been cloudy and wet for many days with more clouds and rain (thankfully not a lot, just frequent light showers). All my tomatoes got bleach spray this morning, there are probably things my eyes can't see and I figure it is better to dose them before any symptoms show up.

A couple nights ago I used a dilute 3 0z / gallon spray of the 8.25% bleach with good results on my tomatoes and squash. Tonight, after two more days of rain, and a lot of pruning I upped it to 4 oz.

If everything looks good I'll use Bill's full strength 5 oz spray the next time and hereafter.

So far, it's amazing that something so simple is working so well!

[QUOTE=jtjmartin;642786]A couple nights ago I used a dilute 3 0z / gallon spray of the 8.25% bleach with good results on my tomatoes and squash. Tonight, after two more days of rain, and a lot of pruning I upped it to 4 oz.

If everything looks good I'll use Bill's full strength 5 oz spray the next time and hereafter.

So far, it's amazing that something so simple is working so well![/QUOTE]

The 4 oz mix is usually adequate for squash as a preventive spray as long as you don't let a mildew get bad. During rainy weather when the tomato plants are wet the 5 oz is necessary because of the dilution from the wet leaves. I even mix it stronger if I am applying it between showers to keep diseases at least slowed down during prolonged rainy spells; but I don't recommend you try that until you are more experienced with using it.

Bill