I want to get one of those. How do you tap into the yard hydrant above from a city type home? Is this a job for a plumber or landscape irrigation company?

- Lisa

This type would be more difficult in a city, we place them when we dig the water lines easy to do then.

Well, all I was able to do was loosen the handle part of the spigot, the nut came loose, so I put teflon tape on threads, screwed it back in, then turned the water back on. It fixed the leaky handle, but it leaks(more now, :( ) from the hose. If I put the sprayer on the hose to keep it from leaking, it leaks from the threads of the spigot where the hose is attached. The first picture shows why I am not attempting further repairs. It looks to be a threaded pipe, but is soldered on. I gave it a try, but I know when to call it quits. We have a call in to our plumber. We use a local small business. They have always treated us right. There are a couple of other small things I might get him to do if he has the time.

Thanks so much, everyone! I appreciate all your input so much!

Nothing surprises me anymore with this place, but we went in with our eyes open. We were in a nice house that we couldn't afford, and downgraded to one we could. Just couldn't see us paying all our lives(and hubby working himself to death) on a house that will never be paid for. We found this one, knowing it needed a lot of work. I expect that in the next 10-15 years(the length of the mortgage) we will redo or replace mostly everything(and we are planning to do so). But that is a small price to pay for peace of mind, and a home that belongs to us, not the bank.

Worth, I love that spigot set up, drooling over here, lol!

Again, thanks so much,
Carrie

[QUOTE=henry;547306]Frost Proof Yard Hydrant, the type I use on the farm we do not have any water lines coming out through the walls of the buildings and have yet to make repairs on this type of tap. They work in the winter never freeze.[/QUOTE]

Those are one of the best things you can get.
They are self draining and work like a fire hydrant.
Worth

Wow they actually used the right fitting for it.
I bet what you think is solder is just pipe dope.
There would be no reason to sweat threaded pipe.

At a good plumbing supply place that have wing handled full flow ball valves get your plumber to put one in for you.
Worth
[IMG]http://www.new-line.com/images/NLCAT/Valve%20-%20Ball%20N10004W%20Wing%20Handle.jpg[/IMG]

You can buy these adapter anywhere.
[IMG]http://s3.supplyhouse.com/images/products/zoom/0122222-1.jpg[/IMG]

What you have is copper coming up from under the house. It looks to be a soldered street el (type of 90°) to female iron pipe thread. Then there is a brass 2 to 3 inch long male iron pipe thread nipple that the female iron pipe thread hose bib is screwed on to. I would turn off the water to your home, hold the brass nipple with a pipe wrench, and screw off the old hose bib with another pipe wrench or crescent wrench. Use teflon tape to help seal the threads of the brass nipple and screw on your female iron pipe ball valve. Since the nipple is brass there is no need to change it as they last a very long time. It will be the most quality and cost effective way. Here is the ball valve hose bib i use and have had in service for 10 plus years now.
[url]http://www.amazon.com/Industries-102-454HN-4-Inch-Quarter-Turn/dp/B000BQRBFK[/url]

Worth, I didn't think about it being pipe dope, and .I will ask about that kind of faucet. We already have one of a different kind, but if it won't run the bill up much it might be worth it to get a better quality part. At $75.00 an hour, if he doesn't have it with him, not sure I would want to pay that for him to make a trip to the supply store(unless he has to go anyway).

I feel bad that I tried it, because now the leak must be fixed now, instead of putting it off till we have money set aside for it. I lost my nerve, and if the same person who did the electrical work for the dryer outlet(they put in a 220 breaker, and a 220 outlet, but only ran 1-110 line to it!) did the plumbing work for the spigot, I don't want any part of it, LOL!

Again, thanks so much!

Carrie

[QUOTE=Worth1;547359]Those are one of the best things you can get.
They are self draining and work like a fire hydrant.
Worth[/QUOTE]

Between tenants breaking them, and going behind grandpa's plumbing work, I have replaced a handful of those things in the past few years. Anchoring the hydrant with a steel fence post helps a lot to keep it from leaking. The entire hydrant is one big lever, so it has to be treated gently. I could pour concrete around them, but then all I can think about it having to bust up the concrete someday to replace the hydrant, which I've had to do before.

Expect we treat them more gentle having no wish to dig them out.

Get a 3 or 4 inch joint of PVC cut slots in the bottom for the pipe to slide through and sink it in the ground around the stand pipe.
Fill it with pea gravel.
Then clean and degrease the outside of the PVC pipe and paint it what ever color you want to make it look good.
Now you have a fat pipe coming out of the ground you can see.
Job done.

Worth

[QUOTE=Worth1;547359]Those are one of the best things you can get.
They are self draining and work like a fire hydrant.
Worth[/QUOTE]

uhhh, yeah... as long as you don't forget to turn off the water if the hose is attached and it is in the on position... like inside my greenhouse and if it freezes( like down at 15f.) the head may (mine did) crack... spraying water everywhere until you notice the noise and realize it isn't a fan running after about two days... ooops. sorry dear.
But they are fabulous. I have three of them in the yard and greenhouses so I am not dragging hoses across the driveway and yard all the time. I need one more in the back yard now... or maybe two.

[QUOTE=Worth1;547250]Here is my fix for the junkie hose bibs they sell.
what you see is a 1/2 copper male fitting going into a 1/2 to 3/4 bushing into a 3/4 ball valve then a brass close nipple a brass 90 and then a brass male pipe to male hose end.
This thing will last for many years.
Shown in the off and on position.
Worth
[ATTACH]58205[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]58206[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]

Yes to this.

Although I use a quarter turn faucet on most, absolutely hate the dial - which is esp. bad for arthritis. (although admittedly still have two dials)

One thing for sure, get rid of the dial type handle. This job with parts in hand, might take 20 minutes; so even if you feel uncomfy, a handman repair or plumber would only be a one hour rate and may be better than the hassle if you are unsure.

In addition (IMPORTANT): [U][B]GET a FROST FREE BIB[/B][/U]. Thata way you just have to turn the facuet off but never have to cover and winterize.

.......... (duplicate post)..........

[QUOTE=Worth1;547359]Those are one of the best things you can get.
They are self draining and work like a fire hydrant.
Worth[/QUOTE]

Concur. Have one & LOVE it !!

[QUOTE=Worth1;547363]At a good plumbing supply place that have wing handled full flow ball valves get your plumber to put one in for you.
Worth
[IMG]http://www.new-line.com/images/NLCAT/Valve%20-%20Ball%20N10004W%20Wing%20Handle.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
A small detail should be taken into account : when the valve is turned off the ball remains full of water : with a severe frost it will burst the valve, leaving a nearly invisible but leaking crack:no:. The whole pipe should be drained in winter and the valve left half open.