Thank you Korney! I knew this thread was around somewhere. In BIY, now why didn't I think of looking there?! :oops:

Yeah, this is really cool!

Really does deserve some glue...??

Thanks, guys!

Glue? Oh! Yes, like STICKY!!!!

........Zakli! ;)

Has anyone tried triangular cages, with loops at the edges for hinges?
I'm short on space, and would need to be able to fold them up at the end of the season for storage.
I'm currently Florida weaving, but looking for another solution.

And Korney, I thought the rising price of iron ore was due to demand from China, but looking in your back yard....:lol:
T

Wouldn't square be better, mate?

You can still hinge them, and triangular would leave a very small centre, or would require really large sides. Just a thought...

I seem to remember seeing square panels of CRW at HD. It was taller than the rolls, but would have to be bent in the middle to use as half of a square as they were pretty big. Square would be awesome in a SFG. Or course taking up most of 3 squares.

A square cage with 24" sides will give you an area of 576 sq in inside.

A triangle with 24" sides will be about 250 sq in.

A circle with a 24" diameter will be about 484 sq in.

I was thinking triangle for stability reasons, but if seated properly to the ground, a square might work. I thought about the internal volume issue, but if some of the plant spills out of the mesh, I was thinking that it might be sufficient.

I really like the illustration in #27 so the tree cages are just about 2" different in diameter and can be nested in the off season, so long as they are not crumpled by being hit with a riding mower ;)

Pumpkin Supports
 

Been using 7' concrete mesh from Home Depot for tomatoes. Like idea of using for pumpkins. Use twist ties to form tube shape. Like idea of bending ends into hooks - get tired of cutting twist ties and hemp ties. Small dia. wire mesh cuts vines of the pumpkins as they hang so will add old panty hose or misc. netting hammocks to support body of pumpkins. Good ideas -- thanks.

I use the cheaper 5 foot concrete mesh. Instead of placing the cage on the ground, I wire it about a foot up off the ground, using a single T post as support for each cage. This serves to keep the bottom wire from rusting thru over time as well as extending the cage up to 6 foot. Cages are zip tied one-to-the-next in the row, giving a plant spacing of about 2.5 feet. One T post and two zip ties provides three very sturdy anchor points for each cage.

Zip ties are great, but for connecting wire to wire you should try Hog Rings or Deckers Hump hog rings. They come in different sizes and are made out of thick copper wire. They will last longer than the plastic ties and are EZ to use. The tool to crimp them is @ $5, and a box of rings is about $4. You should be able to find them at a farm store. They are intended to be used to put in the hog's nose to keep them from rooting.
I have used these to make pens, cages, fence repair, everything except putting them in a hogs nose (although the tiny poodle was digging in the mulch the other day, Rudy, Rudy, cooommeeeeer rooooody).

Check them out, they are right up there with duct tape, zip ties, velcro, and coat hangers for uses.

P.S. I have never seen silver CRW, out here it is rusted when you buy it!!!


Pete

Bumping this for anyone who wants it. I plan on making at least one big rolls worth of cages this year.

I use a 5" section of rewire cutting the bottom edge off which makes a bunch of prongs to stick into the ground. This holds them in the ground well for me.
My cages last season:
June 03 2009
[IMG]http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv21/riverwood/June0309-1.jpg[/IMG]

July 11 09
[IMG]http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv21/riverwood/July1109.jpg[/IMG]

July 27 09
[IMG]http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv21/riverwood/DSC02738.jpg[/IMG]

I bought a roll of 7 ft high wire, 100 ft long. I have made some GREAT cages, but now I may have to cut some (3) of them down to be able to cover with tarps because of the colder weather coming later in the week.

This has worked good for me, I used field fence. The video is a little long.

[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIfrkZAS7TA"][COLOR=#0000ff]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIfrkZAS7TA[/COLOR][/URL]

I have found a use for all of my old irrigation tubing. I cut it so that I can slip it onto the top of my cages, that way I can put the shade cloth up and not have the cages ripping up the shade cloth. I also am using it to put on the top edge of the hardware mesh that I have around my gardens. That stuff just rips up clothes. I will post a picture soon.

[QUOTE=desertlzbn;164148]I have found a use for all of my old irrigation tubing. I cut it so that I can slip it onto the top of my cages, that way I can put the shade cloth up and not have the cages ripping up the shade cloth. I also am using it to put on the top edge of the hardware mesh that I have around my gardens. That stuff just rips up clothes. I will post a picture soon.[/QUOTE]

Very good idea.

Thawley, thanks for this post.

I bought a roll of CRW and made some cages last weekend. It wasn't too difficult and the cages are very sturdy and will last for years. I made 10 with 13 squares (23" diameter) and a bunch with 11 squares (19" diameter).

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My pleasure.


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Question about cutting CRW. I was going to buy bolt cutters but realized that I didn't have the hand/arm strength for more than a couple of cuts when I looked at them at Home Depot.
I bought a 50 foot roll of 5 foot CRW for my tomatoes. I'm going to trellises instead of cages. The stuff wasn't cheap at $98 a roll! I thought about getting the cheaper garden fencing at half the price but it has much smaller holes and is much lighter weight. Would be fine for the trellis idea, I suppose, but if I decide to convert to cages next year I wouldn't be able to use it.
I'm hoping I'll eventually convert this to cages, however, if I move next year, it makes more sense not to make a bunch of cages. I could probably sell the cages on Craig's list, I suppose but it would be one more thing to worry about before moving.
Anyway, has anybody ever cut this stuff with a cutting/grinding disc? Or, any other ideas? My hands just aren't that strong and hubby isn't available to help right now. It will I can do to get 9 t-posts pounded. Hoping irrigation today will help.

It sounds like your bolt cutters are too small to do the job easily. If you use ones with 3 or 4 foot handles you should be easy to cut the wire. If I had the money I'd build some. I personally would use a cutting torch, but that is something I already own.

Tracy – I agree with Doug about the long handled bolt cutters. But they are heavy enough that handling them easily could become the bigger issue for someone with arthritis or low forearm strength.

I did actually use a 3" air-powered cut off wheel at first. It went thought the mesh like butter. But the noise, sparks and running of the air compressor seemed like overkill for the job, and thats when I switched to wire cutters. I'm a pretty big guy and the wire cutters did require a good bit of force. I'd think about any air or power cut off disk would do the job. A Dremel would be easiest to use, though you'll go thru those tiny abrasive disks pretty quickly. The 4.5" grinders from Harbor Freight are very affordable but harder to wield and outragiously loud. Wear ear protection.

Another thought – if you've got a circular saw or Sawzall already, you can buy abrasive blades for either that would make short work of that mesh.

Hope that helps.

[QUOTE=Doug9345;265505]It sounds like your bolt cutters are too small to do the job easily. If you use ones with 3 or 4 foot handles you should be easy to cut the wire. If I had the money I'd build some. I personally would use a cutting torch, but that is something I already own.[/QUOTE]

I just tried on a couple pairs at HD. They were really hard to squeeze without anything in them. I didn't buy any.
One had 2 foot handles, one had shorter handles. I wish I had a cutting torch. Maybe I should talk to my husband about getting one as he's had a need for one many times. He welds a little.

[QUOTE=Thawley;265539]Tracy – I agree with Doug about the long handled bolt cutters. But they are heavy enough that handling them easily could become the bigger issue for someone with arthritis or low forearm strength.

I did actually use a 3" air-powered cut off wheel at first. It went thought the mesh like butter. But the noise, sparks and running of the air compressor seemed like overkill for the job, and thats when I switched to wire cutters. I'm a pretty big guy and the wire cutters did require a good bit of force. I'd think about any air or power cut off disk would do the job. A Dremel would be easiest to use, though you'll go thru those tiny abrasive disks pretty quickly. The 4.5" grinders from Harbor Freight are very affordable but harder to wield and outragiously loud. Wear ear protection.

Another thought – if you've got a circular saw or Sawzall already, you can buy abrasive blades for either that would make short work of that mesh.

Hope that helps.[/QUOTE]
I have the big grinder with the 4.5 inch blades, I think. I do have ear and eye protection.
Can you tell I don't use a lot of tools?
I'm pretty good with a drill and staple gun, lol! And, my weed whacker. Oh, I'm 5.1", 135 lbs and have neck issues.

Divide the length by 3.142 for the diameter. That 6' length would give you about a 2 ft. diameter. I have found that too large a cage allows the plant to fall over inside.

I have used concrete wire for several years. I like the large squares that you canget your hand through and get a nice big tomato out. I like to cut the bottom horizontal wire off and I can just step on the wire above and press the vertical wires into the ground to keep the cages upright.

Found that the grinder cut thought the CRW like butter. I made mine into trellis. More multi-purpose this way. Plus, can be stored flat, if I ever decide to store them. Or, when we move, I can take them with us. Made them into 8 foot panels, for ease of use.