The thing is, once you identify TSWV, you're supposed to pull and trash the plant immediately to prevent your other plants from getting infected by tomato-hopping thrips.

Sucks to wait. Sucks to pull the trigger. :(


If I got wiped out by TSWV one year, then I'd probably reach for a nasty chemical if I knew it would work particularly well the next.

So it was nice to find [URL="http://tmomol.ifas.ufl.edu/tswmangm.pdf"]this article[/URL] (which I'm sure some folks here have already read and may have even been linked to already) which says that after trying both really toxic insecticides and less toxic insecticides, they found the most effective solution was tin foil hats. No wait, I mean highly UV-reflective mulch. So we may have found a way to [I]foil[/I] this problem. ;) I really shouldn't post before I've had coffee. ;)

All, Check out Polar_Lace's thread concerning putting pie tins at the base of the plants. She might have something. This might help in controlling thrips according to what Feldon found concerning reflective mulch. Ami
[URL]http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=2883[/URL]

Vince chemist, Are the growing tips of the plant affected? Does your plant appear to be stunted?
According to a plant pathologist at our University, viral symptoms are often most obvious in an area of active cell division, i.e., the youngest leaves, the growing tip.
A publication from our University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture says of TSWV:
"Tomato plant growth ceases and senescence is promoted after infection with spotted wilt virus. In older plants, leaves near the growing tips show dark, bronze or purplish, circular necrotic spots. Fruits also show circular concentric marks. Tomato spotted wilt virus is the only virus known to be transmitted by thrips."

Great information folks! Honu, that description is spot on. (excuse the pun..)
Univ of Fla is also another really good source of information about this problem.
I don't have the ariticles handy, but I saw a report of some research they did
that determined over-fertilization (N mainly) tended to increase the likelihood of
infection, perhaps by attracting more of the vectors (thrips)....

This is a great post Vince, and I sincerely hope you don't have TSWV!

Lee

P.S. Anyone think we should take the information here and add it to the TSWV
sticky as well?

feldon30, that article is similar to one that I read (may have been the same authors) that also advocated the use of spinosad. I found it in a small quantity at Garden's Alive in the product Bulls-Eye. Peaceful Valley (groworganic.com) also has a smaller container by Monterey.

It is supposedly less toxic to beneficials (though still very toxic to bees). I used it very sparingly and found it effective at killing the thrips. The problem is that once you see thrips on the plants they can already be infected w/TSWV.

I have also used aluminum foil on earth boxes instead of the plastic mulch. Not much of a test though because the plants quickly grew and covered the foil thereby completely defeating its purpose.

Recently had a conversation with 2 certified organic growers who grow south of me and they have never experienced TSWV. They are in the heart of tomato growing land. They recommended releasing beneficials that control thrips. I had considered this a couple years ago but never got around to it. I will look into it again.

my Stump of the World has TSWV
 

It looks as though my Stump of the World has got the junk. I lost two plants last year to TSWV. I first noticed the problem yesterday and a mere 24 hrs later it has progressed quite a bit. I'll get rid of the plant today. :(

Tim

Oh, that sucks, Tim. I lost a Stump to TSWV last season. I was hoping with the colder winter we had, this wouldn't be such a problem. I'll keep a close eye on my plants. Good luck with the rest of yours!

Tongue planted firmly in cheek...

[IMG]http://www.webmikey.com/images/other/reynolds.jpg[/IMG]

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I just put out the blue sticky traps. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Is this that?

Most of my plants seem to have it. . .

It happened the day after I went a bit crazy with the Serenade and the Neem oil. . .



:dizzy: :oops:

That does not look like TSWV to me. No spots. Look back at the first page of this thread for pictures.

there are spots, it's just so bright out it's not capturing well. . . look at the first picture just above where the leaf is brown. . .

also, on some of the plants, the new spots are still just super tiny. . .

That Aint TSWV thats just a tired tomato leaf from all of the hauling around it has been through.

Just keep the dead stems and leaves cut off and let the plants grow.:)
Don't go crazy with the clippers either.;)
Don't worry so much.:)

Worth

I can't help it Worth. . . my little garden plot is so abused it's like The Little Plot of Horrors!

Thanks for humoring me. . . I owe you tomatoes if I ever get any ;-).

It's baaaack! :( So far just on Evergreen and I have a back up plant. I hope it don't have the problems I had last year with this virus. I can see some thrips on these blue sticky traps but I wonder how much activity there was before I put them out and how much they really help. This is the third year I've had TSWV (though not three years in a row) and it makes me feel like I want to plant fewer varieties but more of each one. This year I only grew singles of the cherries. I have two or three of everything else. Now I'm beginning to get scared that won't be enough. Last year was really bad and I was hoping it was because we had such a mild winter. This past winter was a good bit colder but not cold enough, I guess. And it needs to be cold further south too or they just migrate up here. :roll: When I think about last year, it's hard not to feel discouraged.

I just put one my dwarf plants (the lone Sneezy F2 potato leaf) in isolation (grow bags with the handles makes transportation to nether regions easy) - it looks like TSWV. Still, there are some blossoms, and am hoping that the plant hangs on sufficiently to spit out a ripe fruit, hence some seeds (esp. if it is something rare, like the yet-to-be-found large fruited green PL!).

Also have a wispy family heirloom - Shannon (looks similar in plant habit and sounds similar in description to Prue), that someone sent me for trial - that's started the Fusarium thing (grown in a bleached pot with sterile soil, and tied to a new stake....suspect either wind blown contaminated soil or an insect vector), but fingers crossed that it will hang in there long enough for some ripe fruit.

Feeling pretty good, though, with only 2 problems out of 80 plants, and a week of low 80s forecast.

[quote=hasshoes;61014]Is this that?

Most of my plants seem to have it. . .

It happened the day after I went a bit crazy with the Serenade and the Neem oil. . .



:dizzy: :oops:[/quote]

What mix ratio did you use when you mixed the Neem oil with water, or did you buy one of those ready-to-use premixed solutions? Too much Neem oil will leave your plants with a coating, much like using a suntan lotion without sunscreen....a sunburn is sure to follow.

Neem oil on tomato plants, while somewhat effective on pests, also has the potential to turn leaves [B]crispy[/B] if not mixed completely with an emulsifier, such as common hand dishwashing liquid.

Last question - did you apply the Serenade and Neem at the same time?

I used "ready to spray neem" and within about 10 days used the entire bottle (on about 30 seedlings). . . it kept raining so I kept spraying, and I keep seeing bunches of what I'm pretty sure are thrips!

I did spray the serenade and neem at the same time. . . could that be why some of the planted plants were/are drooping?:oops:

I think I'll plant my last few seedlings without doing anything. . . I bet they'll turn into the best plants :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy:

UPDATE: After re-checking google, I can say for sure I picked off thrips today. . . both the flying ones and one of those icky worm-like green kind. Can I get rid of them fast with pred. nematodes or pirate bugs? I also I have an ant infestation in one area I'm trying to get rid of. . . . Should I stop trying to go "all natural"? It is afterall a kooty infested community garden. . . .

Thanks Mishka! :-)

I'm a firm believer that spraying any combination of garden chemicals (pesticides/fungicides/bactericides) simultaneously isn't a good thing. I know that it's tempting to save some time by applying both at once but I think it's best to rotate treatments and spray one a few days after the other one.

As for your thrip problem, you could try spraying your plants (preferably at sunrise or it that's not possible, at dusk) with a solution of 1 tablespoon of ordinary hand dishwashing liquid mixed with a gallon of water. Hint: Add the soap AFTER you fill your container or sprayer and mix well.

When mixing soap solutions, always remember "LESS is MORE". Adding more soap than 1 tbsp. per gallon will NOT kill the thrips any quicker and may very well damage your tomato plants. :x

You'll need to do this for a few consecutive days to see any results. If this doesn't help control your thrip problem, you may have to bring out the big guns, like permethrin or another non-selective insecticide. ;)

Thanks Mishka. . . two last questions. . . is the "all natural" kind of dish liquid okay (will it work) and will this plan of action just kill the currant thrips, or will it actually keep them off?

I don't know if this is possible, but I think a thrip bit me today :evil: !!!!!

Mega thanks again!!!!:D :D :D

Soaps kill by washing away the protective waxy coating of soft bodied insects, such as aphids and thrips, by entering the pest’s respiratory system and causing internal damage. Soaps are not as effective in controlling hard bodied insects such as beetles, wasps, bees and flies. This is why soaps are often considered environmentally friendly, as they [I]selectively[/I] kill many of the soft-bodied pests, but rarely bother hard bodied beneficials such as ladybug beetles and predaceous wasps.

Soap has zero residual value as an insecticide. It is only effective against insects that come into contact with the wet spray. Once the spray has dried, insects will not be harmed by walking over the residue. [U]Coverage is extremely important [/U]- spraying the upper leaf surface will miss many of these insects since they are often found under or within curled leaves. Drench your plants well! ;)

I actually prefer soaps that are made from natural substances vs. petroleum by-products. These salts of fatty acids, from vegetable oils and fats, are what most soaps are made from. Oleic acid, found in olive oil, is the most common insecticidal fatty acid and many hand dishwashing liquid makers incorporate these same soaps in their products, regardless of whether or not they tout them as "all-natural".

All kinds of pesticides were used in Florida to try to control the thrips causing TSWV. From organic all the way to the most toxic substances that Federal law allows. None had any noticeable effect. Thrips travel to your plants, bite them, and then die. The problem is you've already got TSWV as soon as they bit the plants.

That's not helping my anxiety Feldon!!!:evil: :evil: :explode:

:)

ps- I think one bit me (it hurt like %@&#@$!!!!!). . . does that mean I have TSWV?
;0)

pss- Did they try beneficial nematodes or predator bugs?

hasshoes,

Here is a pretty good link with pictures from Colorado State regarding tomato problems, and potential cures.

[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=#000000][URL]http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/Garden/02949.html[/URL]

Ray
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Thanks, Lee for posting these great pics.
I told a fellow gardener that TSWD reminded me of the Blight that that wiped out Ireland's tomato crop.
I would like to think that we learned sometings from that famine. So, if we know the wilt is going to move in, and we do. Instead of keepin' on keepin on with plants that succumb, perhaps we should start choosing plants that march thru' (don't die) and bear some fruit. I wonder how many tomatovillieans out there have had better luck with certain plant choices. I know that Clemson is doing research on TSWD. maybe we should start a thread that invites tomato growers to discuss TSWD.

It is quite an odd disease. I have 80 plants in pots, in close proximity. TSW hit one dwarf in each of the 4 rows, and 1 indeterminate - the last to get it was over a week ago. The other 75 plants are perfect - even those on each side of the infected plant. Seems like perhaps thrips have a short lifetime, and once the infected thrips go, there goes the main vector of infection? I assume(d) that if thrips hit an infected plant then visit an uninfected plant, they pass it along. Anyway, I feel fortunate with the limited infection rate (thus far...who knows what next week brings).

Yep, I keep checking mine, too. I've only had two infected plants so far this year so I'm doing a lot better than last season already. Unfortunately, the two that I had to pull were my only green-when-ripes. I wonder if the thrips were more attracted to those two plants or was it totally random? I hope what you said is true Craig and all the ones carrying TSWV are history or on their way out.

Thanks for the link to the pics. My heart is heavy tonight. I had to pull 3 plants that I believe had TSWD..... hmm....
Rodger, a fellow tomatovillean, showed me his plants. He had a kazilliion, or at least several hundred heirlooms, and he gave me cuttings of many. I hope to get them in the ground by 7/4.

Is anyone trying aluminium foil? Or is that not really viable in a home garden?

Looks like my Lollipop plant now has TSWV too.

I've never tried foil on a tomato plant. I did try it one year on a squash vine. I read an article in Kitchen Gardener magazine when that was still being published and it said to wrap the foil around the stem to keep the squash vine borer from getting in--didn't work. What's foil supposed to do to the thrips on tomatoes?