[QUOTE=carolyn137;703572]

[url]http://t.tatianastomatobase.com:88/wiki/Maya_and_Sion's_Airdrie_Classic[/url]

This one I find very interesting since I was sent seeds by Stanley Zubrowski in Canada and he had crossed some earlies with Brandywine,the only earlies I remember were Glacier and Siberian,but there were three more.

[/QUOTE]

Jeff indicates Maya & Sion's is a cross of a pink Brandywine & Stupice. I tried it for 2 seasons but it did not do well for me.

May and Sion does well here and is staple for my garden. Early enough but not uber early though.
This year I am being surprised by Uralsky Ranniy from Victory seeds
[url]https://www.victoryseeds.com/tomato_uralskiy-ranniy.html[/url]

I'm happy with tomatoes in the pastry this year. From the beginning of June I harvest 3-5 kg of ripe tomatoes every week. I think the harvest in this range will continue until the end of July. Now I'm taking tomatoes into one basket (not every variety separately). If it is then I do not know which variety the tomato is. The tastes are similar to each other.
Obviously, everything was notg OK and I still have something to improve.
Vladimír

3-5 kg each week- That's a lot of tomatoes!


Nan

I do not care about the tomatoes in the cold bed.I give them water and I harvest the fruits. It does not look pretty much there. Yesterday's harvest of 4.2 kg.
Vladimír

Thanks to RJGlew, I have the seeds of all varieties for cold beds at home. I'll start the season for a month, sometimes around November 1. Sow seeds of varieties that are really low (Mongolskyi karlik, Sarayev Shtambovyi, Betalux and Klusha). I will want to end March (already before planting in the cold bed) tomatoes had some small fruit at home on the window. Other varieties (the higher ones) will be sown three weeks later (like last year).
Vladimír

Vladimir, you grow over the winter? Where?

All of these plants will be grown home by the window until they can be planted into a cold frame.
I want to have seedlings with pollinated flowers and small fruits. when I´ll put them in a cold frame. That's why I'll have to sow the seeds so early on November 1, that's three weeks before last year.
Last year, I sown on November 24th, in March, Sarayev Shtambovyi had only set flowers.
Vladimír

[QUOTE=MrBig46;715901]... Other varieties (the higher ones) will be sown three weeks later (like last year).
Vladimír[/QUOTE]

Hi Vladimir,

The graphics look great & are easy to understand. Just wondering, what are Mo1, Mo2, Mo3, and Mo4?

Thanks, and good luck this season,

rg

Nice to see you are pushing the envelope again, Vladimir. Will be interesting to compare results with this season. :)

Mo1 - Mo4 are Mongolskyi karlik. I forgot to delete those numbers.
Vladimír

Last year, I was not satisfied with how the tomatoes were pollinated in the cold frame. The probable cause was that when the temperature drops at night, the relative humidity in the frame increased to over 95% and the pollen was damp. During daytime temperature rise, he did not swell and therefore did not pollinate.
The second problem was planting and harvesting fruit. I did not have access to the plants in the middle row.
I'm trying to solve both problems. I'll be watering with a hose with a hole underneath a black cloth. From the planting until the glass removal, I cover the whole area of the cold frame with a thin transparent foil to prevent the evaporation of water from the soil. By this measure, I want to achieve that the relative humidity does not increase to 80%.

To have better access to the plants so I made a wooden grid I shall put on the foil.

PS.: I am adding photo illustration how I shall deal with watering and access to the plants.

Is that Toro 3/4" line and gravity feed setup?

It's not Toro 3/4 "There is no electricity connection or water supply in the garden so I can not use a drip irrigation. It's just a polypropylene hose 1" in which 4 mm holes are drilled in the top (in the ridge). At the ends there are two 10-liter buckets that make up the combined vessels. I will bring 20 l of water in two cans and pour it into the buckets. The water evenly flows over the entire length of the bed. Next year, I want to apply this method of pouring to all tomato and strawberry beds. In the cold deep bed, which is only 2.4 meters long I'll have a bucket on one side only. The picture shows the bed of strawberries irrigated in this way.
Vladimír

Thanks Vlad, it looked like Toro Blue Stripe. Is this a community garden or just something far away from a water spigot? Too bad you couldn't get a water hose to reach; you could have used a battery operated valve to turn it on/off. Or you could use a 55 gallon drum for watering and a DC pump to feed the lines on a timer. Or elevate the water drum to gravity feed the water and use a battery operated valve or solar operated valve...