Will this Solarization process work for SWC containers??
 

At the very bottom of this UC Davis link there is a section on Solarization of containers. If I'm reading this right, it is saying containers can be solarized in less than a day. Is there any way this can be true? I'm looking for a speedier process of solarizing my SWC's as I grow tomatoes year round.

I don't know anything about this so looking for feedback from those of you that do!

[url]http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74145.html[/url]

In case you don't want to click on the link, I've copied and pasted the paragraph that I'm referring to.

[B]SOLARIZING SOIL IN CONTAINERS[/B]

Soil solarization has been shown to be effective for disinfesting small amounts of moist, containerized soil and soil in cold frames. Soil can be solarized either in bags, pots, plastic buckets, or flats. These containers are placed on an elevated surface such as wooden pallets and covered with [URL="http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pni74145-2.html"]a “double-tent” of transparent plastic[/URL]. Soil temperatures should be monitored closely in this planting media to assure that temperatures are high enough to control pests. As an example in warmer areas of California, soil inside black plastic bags can reach more than 160°F during solarization. This is equal to target temperatures suggested for commercial soil disinfestation using aerated steam. At these temperatures, all soil pests can be killed within one hour. The [URL="http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/C/S-NC-CULT-SR.021.html"]double layer of plastic[/URL] can increase soil temperatures by up to 50°F, and placing containers on pallets allows for heating from all sides of the soil mass. Alternatively, moist soil in pots, or as a mass, may be placed in closed, black trash bags and placed on pallets. Soil temperatures can be monitored using simple soil thermometers inserted into the center of the soil mass, or by using thermocouples and a digital reading logger. Temperatures can be monitored at multiple locations, but the duration should be lengthened to raise the temperature at the coolest location to the desired level. As a guideline, to completely eliminate pests, maintain 158°F or higher for 30 minutes, or 140°F or higher for one hour.


Ginny

Ginny,


Did you read on the Florida Thread that Marsha solarizes her entire EB?

The black Husky bags are really thick, can be found at Home Depot and end up costing just over $.50 a bag.

They are huge and would definitely fit a SWC.

Hi Barb... Marsha does it for 6 weeks. I was more wondering if the double bagging process the article describea would work in 24 hours (or less like this artcle says). Since I grow tomatoes year round I dont have 6 weeks to solarize. What do you think?

Isn't their time when the plants are seedlings and small? Do you go straight from seedlings to their final spot? Mine do much better when they get transplanted a couple of times so I definitely have time.

If you place the bag in the hottest, sunniest area they get really hot. I have a few on a pallet on my pool deck (surprised DH hasn't noticed). They are burning hot.

If you use the contractor clean-up bags, I wouldn't think you would need to double up.

Just give it the time you have. It is better than not solarizing.

Tomorrow in the heat of the day, I will take the temperature inside the bag.

[QUOTE=Fiishergurl;477038]Hi Barb... Marsha does it for 6 weeks. I was more wondering if the double bagging process the article describea would work in 24 hours (or less like this artcle says). Since I grow tomatoes year round I dont have 6 weeks to solarize. What do you think?[/QUOTE]
Ginny, right, I did it for 6 weeks, but I was just guessing at how much is actually enough, for all I know it could have been overkill. I think, try it and see. Then please let us know your results.

Ok , I will give it a week if there's time. Better than nothing. I do grow tge seedlings in smaller containers and then transplant after 4-6 weeks. But I go from the spring tomato plants (the ones in there now), to the summer cherry tom plants which are growing in small containers now and will be ready to plant in the SWC's when the spring plants are done, then fall plants once the cherry tom plants are done. Then repeat... :-)

No real down time. I was curious about the article stating that the solarization could be complete in an hour.

Ginny

[QUOTE=ginger2778;477048]Ginny, right, I did it for 6 weeks, but I was just guessing at how much is actually enough, for all I know it could have been overkill. I think, try it and see. Then please let us know your results.[/QUOTE]


Ok will do... :-)

Ginny

Thank you as always for the input... :-)

Ginny

Would any of you do anything else to refresh this solarized potting soil after you have solarized it? I was thinking of doing this also, but not in pots. Was thinking of dumping the soil mix in large plastic bags and solarizing those. But wasn't sure if the result would be good as is--wouldn't adding some kind of fertilizer be beneficial? I would be using this in not only my Earthbox(where you would add the strip anyways), but regular pots as well. Any advise please!

Hey Cathy,

I'm doing a combination; I started with dumping the mix in the bags and putting the bags on pallets, and after reading that Marsha solarizes in the EB within the bag, I am switching to that method. All but one of my EB are on casters, so I can roll them into the bag.

If you get the bags, get the contractor clean-up bags; the other ones just don't hold up (at least in Florida). Husky is the brand I use, (found at Home Depot)

I'm testing the temperature daily now; Nothing has reached more than 125 degrees. I'm also testing double bagging.

One other thing, in my EB, I ended up with pot worm which I think is from being too acidic so I am adding more dolomite lime.

Clear plastic is recommended.
 

See the paragraph regarding black/clear plastic.Although intent of post was for SWC,the temps are greater with clear plastic.

[url]http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/take_advantage_of_our_summer_heat.htm[/url]

"The plastic used to cover the area should be clear, not black. Clear plastic lets light energy pass through and then traps it, much like a greenhouse. Black plastic absorbs most of the sun's heat without letting it pass through to the soil below. 1-to-6 mil plastic will work fine - the thicker the better."

[QUOTE=kurt;478124]See the paragraph regarding black/clear plastic.Although intent of post was for SWC,the temps are greater with clear plastic.

[url]http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/take_advantage_of_our_summer_heat.htm[/url]

"The plastic used to cover the area should be clear, not black. Clear plastic lets light energy pass through and then traps it, much like a greenhouse. Black plastic absorbs most of the sun's heat without letting it pass through to the soil below. 1-to-6 mil plastic will work fine - the thicker the better."[/QUOTE]

This is good. While I used black plastic last year and had fine results, it isn't any more difficult to use clear. They are readily available too. Thanks very much Kurt, I will modify. I plan to start my solarization in the next 2 weeks.

[QUOTE=Barb_FL;478108]Hey Cathy,

I'm doing a combination; I started with dumping the mix in the bags and putting the bags on pallets, and after reading that Marsha solarizes in the EB within the bag, I am switching to that method. All but one of my EB are on casters, so I can roll them into the bag.

If you get the bags, get the contractor clean-up bags; the other ones just don't hold up (at least in Florida). Husky is the brand I use, (found at Home Depot)

I'm testing the temperature daily now; Nothing has reached more than 125 degrees. I'm also testing double bagging.

One other thing, in my EB, I ended up with pot worm which I think is from being too acidic so I am adding more dolomite lime.[/QUOTE]
In keeping with Kurt's post, I wonder if the Husky brand comes in clear. I used the Heftys last year, and some did get holes. I agree with you Barb, I think something stronger is in order.:)

Kurt thanks so much for letting us know.l!!

Ginny

Thanks for the update. I have tons of those black bags filled with potting soil but just started on my EBs.

Today I wrapped 2 EB with clear plastic and filled another and rolled into a clear bag.

The wrapped ones had a ton of condensation on the inside of the plastic.
Should I take it off and let it dry out or leave alone?

I also have a HUGE clear plastic bin, so I am going to fill that with potting mix and wrap the tops. I also have 2 clear Lucite sheets (3/4" thick) that I can use to cover it. I use them on my wheelbarrow so the mix doesn't get wet when it rains.

----
Ginger - Husky makes clear but online only and shipping was about the price of the black ones at HD. There is no comparison between Husky and Hefty.
Some of what they sell as 'clear' are not clear.
Will keep you posted on what I find since I'm ahead of you.

I know the local hydro store would have clear sheeting, I don't want to spend a lot of $ attaching it - duct tape? Any ideas?

It would probably cost more than just buying bags.

---
Am going to convert to clear bags now.

Barb, I read somewhere that the soil should be damp.... helps the temps rise higher.

Ginny

Ginny-great info on the dampness, that's how mine usually are anyway.
They always get condensation, I just ignore it because the condensation is also solarizing.
Peebee- in answer to what to do after solarization, solarization is to basically sterilize the soil, it kills pretty much everything. After it is done, I totally replenish. New dolomite, old fertilizer strip dug out. And then topped off with some brand new PromixBX. That has mycorrhizae in it, which I really like because they help the roots to absorb nitrogen.

This is really maybe the best thread on here for us Floridians, I really enjoy all your posts and pictures, and I am learning so much!:)

Marsha - I am excited about this thread too.... especially after seeing the results in Peebee's "I'm A Believer Post". Peebee so glad you shared those pictures... :-)

Ginny

No problem with the SWC mix being damp; if anything I will need to dry it out before using it.

I took some temps at 4PM - and under the clear plastic, it was 125.

In the black bag next to it, it was <110.

That difference is huge.

----
I ordered the 42 gallon clear bags - I went with Husky because I think I have a better chance that they will be clear; from what I've read on other reviews, a common complaint is that they aren't clear.

Should have them delivered on Monday.

I am up north and am finding this discussion very interesting too! I will now be using clear and not black!
I wonder if I need to dump everything out of my containers and into clear bags in order for it to be effective. I had hoped I could just pull the clear bag over the container...

[QUOTE=Barb_FL;478475]No problem with the SWC mix being damp; if anything I will need to dry it out before using it.

I took some temps at 4PM - and under the clear plastic, it was 125.

In the black bag next to it, it was <110.

That difference is huge.

----
I ordered the 42 gallon clear bags - I went with Husky because I think I have a better chance that they will be clear; from what I've read on other reviews, a common complaint is that they aren't clear.

Should have them delivered on Monday.[/QUOTE]
Barb, how hot was the black bag?

Ginny

[QUOTE=luigiwu;478480]I am up north and am finding this discussion very interesting too! I will now be using clear and not black!
I wonder if I need to dump everything out of my containers and into clear bags in order for it to be effective. I had hoped I could just pull the clear bag over the container...[/QUOTE]
Hi Luigi.... I was wondering that too. Kurt do you know?

Ginny
[QUOTE=luigiwu;478480]I am up north and am finding this discussion very interesting too! I will now be using clear and not black!
I wonder if I need to dump everything out of my containers and into clear bags in order for it to be effective. I had hoped I could just pull the clear bag over the container...[/QUOTE]

I have been doing the black bags for months - just dumping the mix in it;

The black bag I tested that was <110 is on a wooden pallet and is sprawled out - so the mix is not deep in any area. This will be a good test when I transfer one to the clear bags.

The double black bag on the EB was 105.

Marsha solarizes right in the EB so that is what I am doing for my EBs. Mine is a 2 step process; using 2 EB - I fill one and adding dolomite b/c I had pot worms. (in worm bins you get them from it being too acidic so I think the same for potting mix - I don't have them in my worm bin probably b/c I pulverize egg shells to powder when I feed them).

Solarizing right in the container is way better than having bags on pallets all over the place.

[QUOTE=Barb_FL;478475]No problem with the SWC mix being damp; if anything I will need to dry it out before using it.

I took some temps at 4PM - and under the clear plastic, it was 125.

In the black bag next to it, it was <110.

That difference is huge.

----
I ordered the 42 gallon clear bags - I went with Husky because I think I have a better chance that they will be clear; from what I've read on other reviews, a common complaint is that they aren't clear.

Should have them delivered on Monday.[/QUOTE]
Oh my! Barb, that's fantastic research. You are so awesome, as is Kurt for telling us about it. Thank you, thank you,thank you.:D

Luigiwu, you most definitely can and indeed should pull the bag op right over the container. Simplifies your life.;)

Also, from another thread, the rootball atrophies in my EBs after I cut the main tomato base down at the soil line. You can leave it like that until the solarization is completed, then just reach in and pull the stump out using a clockwise twist and rocking motion. At least 2 weeks of solarization to accomplish that. You will see most of the fine roots are gone and mostly all that is left is the stem stump, which comes right out.
Okra is a different story, because it makes a strong taproot, but the pulling and twisting gets them out too.
Brassicas and lettuces are not even an issue.

Temps at different depths.
 

"I was wondering that too. Kurt do you know"

Since I do not solarize myself and do not use the SWC/EBs the only way would be to take sample readings at the depths with on of those instant read Thermos,which I have seen to have at least a 6 inch stem.A raised container off the surface should yield desired temps.But putting the soils in bags at two -three(maybe more) soil thickness in this heat will do the trick if the desired temps are not reached.Again monitoring the temps at first would be the caliber of determination.PS Ginger 2778 It is nice to see the FLA TAG resurrect itself somewhat in these communications,maybe combine some posts/threads in the future and show the FLA TAG flag to let everyone know we are still alive and kickin!

Thought I would bump this thread. I started my solarizing process on Sunday.
I remember last summer posting temps much higher than those listed in this thread. They must be listed in the 2015 FL thread. Thinking they reached > 140 in the clear bags. Will update if I find the exact #s.


This year I am only solarizing in the EBs. No more solarizing in the bags only.

I first remove the top several inches and fertilizer strip so the only mix that I will use next season is getting solarized. I did this last summer as well.

My process: I start with an empty EB (dump all the contents in a 15 gallon Rootpouch). I inspect the roots when pulling out. I clean the EB with a hose.

So then I take EB #2 and ditch the top layer, and dump the contents into the empty EB#1. EB#1 is not full yet. Then I take EB#3 (or a root pouch), ditch what I don't want solarizied, and still add to EB#1 until full. This year I am pressing the mix down hard so I can fit more in.

Then I clean EB#2, EB#3, etc and repeat. I was able to fill EB#1 with contents of EB#2, EB#3.

Thats a great job, but lots of work! Mine are solarizing, in their same box, fert strip and all. There are some on the EB forum who say that if you use an organic fertilizer you dont even need to remove it at all. I still will.

It looks really good.

I'm going to put down plastic sheeting tomorrow morning on an in-ground garden - oh my back - lol.

Mine are still producing tomatoes for my neighbors. They sent me pictures today and the plants are wild and wooly looking but still green and I can see tomatoes on them in the pics... :-) But I'm planning a trip back in july sometime to clean mine up and solarize and just in general check on the homestead... :-)

Ginny

[QUOTE=AlittleSalt;570892]It looks really good.
I'm going to put down plastic sheeting tomorrow morning on an in-ground garden - oh my back - lol.[/QUOTE]
AlittleSalt,
I see you are growing in Zone 8a. I'm guessing you have a fair amount of nematode issues growing in the ground. I'm curious if that is a big issue for you or not and if so how you contend with it? Is solorization adequate or do you take other steps such as selecting nematode resistant varieties?
I would be very interested in hearing how you garden successfully in your environment.
Thanks,
Larry