Raised Bed
1 Attachment(s)
Hope i am alright with the depth of this bed, due to the uneven ground and hard clay here in central Indiana the rear will be 20" deep and the front around 17" will be a raised bed mix of fine mulch, compost, and topsoil..............about 6 yds! hopefully with a few of Gingers seeds all will be good?:)
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That's a nice, deep bed! Typically people tend to go with 10-12" from what I've seen.
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Too Deep
Thanks, i hope not too deep, maybe leave a couple/3 inches not filled? My thoughts was 11" not enough and the 10' 10 X 10's were a bit too heavy for me to work with so........... in my confusion :dizzy with what dimensional lumber to use it got about 4" higher than i really wanted so...... I hope not too deep? can always chainsaw off the top 2 X 6 but as i get older bending and reaching, might like it (67 now)..........:|
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I would leave it as is. It'll give the roots that much more good soil mix before they hit the clay. And even if you filled it to the rim now, there will be some settling as time goes on and you'll find yourself having to top it up with more compost as the years go by. So go ahead and fill it as high as you have mix for.
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If soil is no issue the deeper the better.
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Thanks all, was gonna be less than 5 yds, now a tad over 6 yds don't want to part with the dough but for tomatoes ..........:lol:
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Impressive!. Good job.
If you had asked ahead of your efforts i would have suggested 3 beds 4 ft apart using the same lumber, same soil amount. 2 1/2 - 3 ft wide. Half the height. Tomatoes in the deeper end and herbs/salad and other crops that don't need deep soil planted at the less deep forward area. My raised beds are narrow to allow easy access and never do i need to step into the beds, (compacts the soil)...i do keep mine covered all winter months and double dig, no till, early spring, working front to back...where i step is ahead of me. Working back. I divide my beds with same boards into half or thirds. One early crop comes out and replaced with another summer heat loving crop, without disturbing the neighboring crop. I have heavy clay soil so dense i could make and turn pots and bowls and drinking cups. |
Your raised bed looks good. How long X wide is your bed? In my opinion, you will need to put a couple of braces toward the center of you bed to keep the soil from pushing out the sides of the bed over time. It's much easier to do that now than come back later and rework your bed.
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Clay Soil
Yeah I have the same clay and debated to split the bed up into 2 or 3 separate beds. It is now 20' X 5.5' Debated narrower also but know/think i can work the bed from the sides especially if I used a small bench if needed. So I have what I have and will experiment with different crops at different depths. I do have a couple of cross braces - "V" channel galvanized to span for later bowing, might add a couple 2 X 4 also if it should be done??? maybe better do it every 5' at each 4 X 4 ?/?
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Raised Bed
Do you think I can get 20 "Dwarf / Tree" type plants in that 20 X 5.5' bed?
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I think 2x4s at each 4x4 would be a good idea. I don't know about the dwarf trees since I only grow vegetables in my raised beds.
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[QUOTE=tryno12;625252]Do you think I can get 20 "Dwarf / Tree" type plants in that 20 X 5.5' bed?[/QUOTE]
If you're talking about dwarf tomato varieties, then I'd say you would have plenty of space for 20. If it were me and that was all I was growing, I would be putting in 30 dwarfs--3 rows of ten. |
nice big bed, 5.5' can be a streeeetch for some to work the middle, but then I see your highly placed hose reel w/ large looped hose and maybe you are very tall. I have two six foot wide and it can be a challenge. a true inner measure four foot works best for me.
in addition, your storage barn drains on the siding of the house, possibly creating mildew issue, fwiw. have a great year. |
I honestly think my 5 foot wide beds area nightmare to work with, 3 foot wide would have been better.
The only reason I did it was for structural purposes for the arbor in the middle of the two beds. If I had it to do over again I would have put them on concrete slabs to keep the tree roots and Bermuda grass out. Worth |
yes thanks, a couple aluminum across the center 2 4 X 4's and a couple more across the 5.5' spans about 3/4 the way up from ground, not sure if you were pulling my leg: yes all dwarf's but they call some of them "tree" because of there thick stalk and continual production of fruit and being determinant yo, all tomatoes for sure!!
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Could someone please put this thread where it belongs and not in the food preservation section?
I'm not complaining no need to explain why it is here, it just isn't in the right place.:) Worth |
Thanks for the imput! I have never grown the Dwarf/Tree type but Ginger(a very nice and dedicated contributor/individual!) sent me a bunch to try. If I was to try 30 as you say is possible( just got back from S. California by El Centro (Salton Sea-weird!) - and looked at their farms - tomato's about 1' apart on raised row/mounds 6" high now and i believe drip watered under the black plastic , peppers touching each other and well fruited already) so I see your perspective. Maybe i'll give it a try and put Ginger's Indeterminate s "in the back 40" to grow 7' no disrespect for sure on the inderminates!
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[QUOTE=tryno12;629587]Thanks for the imput! I have never grown the Dwarf/Tree type but Ginger(a very nice and dedicated contributor/individual!) sent me a bunch to try. If I was to try 30 as you say is possible( just got back from S. California by El Centro (Salton Sea-weird!) - and looked at their farms - tomato's about 1' apart on raised row/mounds 6" high now and i believe drip watered under the black plastic , peppers touching each other and well fruited already) so I see your perspective. Maybe i'll give it a try and put Ginger's Indeterminate s "in the back 40" to grow 7' no disrespect for sure on the inderminates![/QUOTE]
I'm from California (San Diego's East County), and those plants can be so close together because they are dry out there, it is the desert in Salton Sea. So, the plants provide each other shade, and they don't have water sitting on them from mildew or watering. If your area has humidity then it is best to give your plants plenty of air flow. History on the Salton Sea, it's in real trouble out there. [URL]https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AwrBT8n0AORY_5IA2OJXNyoA;_ylc=X1MDMjc2NjY3OQRfcgMyBGZyA21jYWZlZQRncHJpZANoVjlUeWFYOFRWLnBDTllhUl9pdk1BBG5fcnNsdAMwBG5fc3VnZwM5BG9yaWdpbgNzZWFyY2gueWFob28uY29tBHBvcwMwBHBxc3RyAwRwcXN0cmwDMARxc3RybAMxMgRxdWVyeQNTYWx0b24lMjBTZWEEdF9zdG1wAzE0OTEzMzc0NjI-?p=Salton+Sea&fr2=sb-top&fr=mcafee&type=C111US0D20170121[/URL] |
Thanks for the info Rock, the lack of desert air here in central Indy will be a good reason NOT to grow 'em too close tgether - i see the difference now. Yeah, seems like the resorts and towns around the Salton Sea were all deserted and no more room for graffiti except on top of existing graffiti - only inhabitants like in Bombay City i think worked for the County DPW to keep the water and sewers running but for why?...................
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[QUOTE=tryno12;629922]Thanks for the info Rock, the lack of desert air here in central Indy will be a good reason NOT to grow 'em too close tgether - i see the difference now. Yeah, seems like the resorts and towns around the Salton Sea were all deserted and no more room for graffiti except on top of existing graffiti - only inhabitants like in Bombay City i think worked for the County DPW to keep the water and sewers running but for why?...................[/QUOTE]
Sadly, the water has become so saline (correction-Not saline) out there that the fish can't stay alive and the commerce died. The link I gave above has many different links to check out. It will lay out all that is wrong out there. It used to be a really rockin place out there with celebrities being the largest group of people staying there. Sonny Bono was working on trying to get the salton sea fixed. The runoff from farming has caused many problems with the sea, it really is a sad situation. :( |
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