chicken manure vs 10-10-10 thought
 

I have a lot of chickens......60 plus the broilers
You know how they use the chemical fertilizers like 13-13-13 or 10-10-10 in the Earthbox, global buckets, earthtainers in a "fertilizer strip".... Well, I can't find a deffinate answer as to why you can or cannot use "dried chicken manure" the same way.
Regular chemical fertilizers are put in a strip away from the plant base so it does not burn the plant while it is slowly pulled into the soil by moisture to give the plant nutrients.
Wouldn't dried chicken manure do the same thing?

I can only answer from my own experience. In Finland, chicken manure is commonly used for gardening... it's sold wherever garden supplies are available. Often it's mixed with sea kelp.
Yes, it is adviced to push it in the sides of the container when planting a seedling, so the fragile newbie roots wouldn't be burned by it. Or, the manure is mixed with water and used as liquid fertilizer.
If you have manure from your own chickens, just make sure they are all healthy.... in order to avoid any salmonella danger. If you have a commercial farm, and use antibiotics, I'd be concerned about them passing on to manure and to the plants - with organic chickens, there of course isn't such an issue.

My chickens were suppose to be tested this past Friday but it looks like it will be early week before that happens. The chickens look and act healthy but I just wanted to make sure. (NPIP)
I'm not commercial and haven't used antibiotics

If you have loads of 'poo' from healthy chickens, you're a very lucky gardener. That stuff is stinky (even when dry), but really makes everything grow.

In the Book Nature Farming and Microbial Applications a test was performed measuring sugars and organic acids in ripe tomato fruit from different fertilization treatments to include Chicken Manure, Organic (Bokashi) and chemical fertilizer. The chicken manure crop had the highest sugar content and the chemical fertilizer had the lowest amount of sugar content.


Ami

I do remember reading an article, some time ago, which stated that chicken poo should be composted before use. Seems it is a strong Nitrogen source it will do damage if used directly. I would play safe, pile it for a year along with the regular compost.
Lucky you, to have such a problem.

[QUOTE=amideutch;379819]In the Book Nature Farming and Microbial Applications a test was performed measuring sugars and organic acids in ripe tomato fruit from different fertilization treatments to include Chicken Manure, Organic (Bokashi) and chemical fertilizer. The chicken manure crop had the highest sugar content and the chemical fertilizer had the lowest amount of sugar content.
Ami[/QUOTE]

Interesting. Was there any mention of horsemanure?
I've used both, and will probably use them again next year - not in the same containers, though.

Dried chicken manure is "hot" ( there is a lot of urea in it and it will smell like ammonia). If you use too much you will burn your plants. If they are small it will kill them. I accidentally put too much on a couple of trays of plants in my greenhouse last spring and killed a few new seedling batches. I was so disgusted with myself, but I didn't realize it was so potent.. So my advice is to use it sparingly.

[QUOTE=amideutch;379819]In the Book Nature Farming and Microbial Applications a test was performed measuring sugars and organic acids in ripe tomato fruit from different fertilization treatments to include Chicken Manure, Organic (Bokashi) and chemical fertilizer. The chicken manure crop had the highest sugar content and the chemical fertilizer had the lowest amount of sugar content.

Ami[/QUOTE]

I know that organic fertilization increases the BRIX level in fruit, but did they say why chicken manure in particular increased sugars and organic acids the highest in the tomato fruit? I'm just curious as to how that chicken manure magic happens.:)

[QUOTE=clkeiper;379825]Dried chicken manure is "hot" ( there is a lot of urea in it and it will smell like ammonia). If you use too much you will burn your plants. If they are small it will kill them. I accidentally put too much on a couple of trays of plants in my greenhouse last spring and killed a few new seedling batches. I was so disgusted with myself, but I didn't realize it was so potent.. So my advice is to use it sparingly.[/QUOTE]

The way I understand it from what I've read is that fresh chicken manure has a neutral PH and the bacteria that are most active at that PH produce enzymes that convert the urea and uric acid to ammonia. Since Ammonia (NH3) is a gas, a great deal of the N from the manure is being lost to the atmosphere.
If the manure is incorporated into a more acidic soil or a compost pile with more acidic components then a different set of bacteria are more active and convert the urea to ammonium (NH4)

my opinion is that manure of all kinds is excellent fertilizer and source of organic matter once it has been properly composted. I would personally never use fresh or dried non-composted manure, chicken or otherwise, in my garden or on my plants. Not only for the reasons mentioned above like the potential to "burn" plants from high ammonia concentrations but for the possibility of contamination by fecal bacteria that would be killed by proper composting. Fecal colifirms on greens like lettuce and spinach have become a leading cause of food poisoning.

[url]http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/VegFruit/fresh.htm[/url]


KarenO

Thank you for all the information and opinions.
I will compost.

[QUOTE=NarnianGarden;379806]If you have loads of 'poo' from healthy chickens, you're a very lucky gardener. That stuff is stinky (even when dry), but really makes everything grow.[/QUOTE]

Stinky is right! We had a neighbor when we lived on Long Island (New York) who used to get a truckload delivered when he was starting his garden each spring. Stunk up the neighborhood until he got it mixed in with his soil.

Chicken Manure is really "hot" because of the urea in it (chickens don't pee, it's an all-in-one kind of deal.) I would pile it, soak it, turn it and do this a lot of times. If it is too hot, it can really fry roots/plants. I have used 10 year old composted horse manure for all of my gardening life. Now that I am in Mexico, it's burro manure. That said, we grew our own hay on our ranch in Wyoming and there was little if any weed seed in it. My burro manure in Mexico does have some weed seed but not enough to make me manic.

Cow manure is awfully hot also. The best is goat or rabbit. I had a friend who was a famous Iris hybridizer and he would drive 100 miles to get goat poo.

The secret to all of these is composting...fries weed seeds, leaches out urea or other stuff you don't want and it is usually free and plentiful. I swear on my Mother's grave I have never used a commercial fertilizer on my garden in my life.

The other benefit is that all composted manures really help your soil, lightening heavy soil and providing water retention for sandy soils. My tomato beds (and I have a lot...) are basically what were 4 foot deep compost piles, spread out and rototilled unto death.

I grow in Earthboxes. Manures of all types are not advised as they work against the necessary wicking action of the growing media and ultimately turn it to muck, defeating the system.

Whether you are using something organic or inorganic to feed your tomato plants, choose something with a higher proportion of potash to nitrogen (but not too high). For an organic fertilizer, an NPK of 4-4-7 is very good and I assume this fertilizer would also contain minor- and micro-nutrients plus other beneficial soil amendments. For an inorganic fertilizer, choose something with NPK [i]ratios[/i] (not values) of 2:1:3; for example 10-5-15 or 16-8-24.

Carolyn, I've seen a debate in forums for several years over container growing and organic methods. Because soil works differently in containers, there is a growing contingent who believe you should not use organic materials, including ferts. The goal is very different, according to them, because of the perched water table and because you don't want to break down the soil mix - which organic things do. You turn it into a veritable pudding if you do.

I have to admit, coming from organic in-ground gardening for many years, I had a hard time with these concepts. I have tried them for the last few years and found them to be superior - at least in my set up. I use several types of containers, including some SWC.

There is a robust thread at GardenWeb - with detractors and supporters - that helps provide some background and explains the science behind the concepts.

[QUOTE=Sun City Linda;393622]I grow in Earthboxes. Manures of all types are not advised as they work against the necessary wicking action of the growing media and ultimately turn it to muck, defeating the system.[/QUOTE]Against the advice of many, I added about 10% composted cow manure to my homemade Earthbox. The soil was still sufficiently loose and I got a fantastic crop.

[QUOTE=amideutch;379819]In the Book Nature Farming and Microbial Applications a test was performed measuring sugars and organic acids in ripe tomato fruit from different fertilization treatments to include Chicken Manure, Organic (Bokashi) and chemical fertilizer. The chicken manure crop had the highest sugar content and the chemical fertilizer had the lowest amount of sugar content.


Ami[/QUOTE]
Well, the high sugar probably makes for a tastier tomato, but, as a diabetic, that isn't the best news lol! I'm using chemical fertilizer so I guess I'll have more diabetic friendly tomatoes.:D

[QUOTE=feldon30;394116]Against the advice of many, I added about 10% composted cow manure to my homemade Earthbox. The soil was still sufficiently loose and I got a fantastic crop.[/QUOTE]
As do many others. But your growing media will break down quicker when you add organic materials to the mix. I used to add stuff too. Someone posted he put whole fish in his EBs!:shock: Once I better understood the method behind EBs and SWC, I decided to use only sterile mix but that is the beauty of gardening as we all get to do our own thing. Personally, I can't afford to be changing out the mix in my boxes any more often than needed.

Last year I used some dried chicken manure product as part of reconditioning my tomato container soils - before I read all the advice not to do that. I didn't use too much I guess, I had no problems and a good crop. I think my plants were healthier overall this past year because I fertilized more.

I am not using the earthbox concept, just old fish tubs. I am really stuck on organic growing though as I've never done otherwise and no motive to change that. I add about 1/3 new material to the soil each year, mostly fresh compost and kelp, not seeing anything turning to muck at this point after three years with the same 'reconditioned' soil.

[QUOTE=Sun City Linda;394138]As do many others. But your growing media will break down quicker when you add organic materials to the mix. I used to add stuff too. Someone posted he put whole fish in his EBs!:shock: Once I better understood the method behind EBs and SWC, I decided to use only sterile mix but that is the beauty of gardening as we all get to do our own thing. Personally, I can't afford to be changing out the mix in my boxes any more often than needed.[/QUOTE]

That is, indeed, the issue. If you change your mix every season, organic is OK. But, if you want to reuse it at least a couple or more, it just doesn't work well - it's designed to break things down.

But, even in one season, I was shocked at just how much the peat had turned to a soup that looked as if no gas exchange could take place. If my crops were significantly larger, better, sweeter, more productive - then I might say OK. But, it's not, at least in my experience. So, I save money and get very good tomatoes - win-win.

Chi9cken Manure burns
 

I built a raised bed for a friend of mine who could no longer garden because he could not bend anymore. His son and others had chicken manure and he asked his son for a load of composted manure. Then he heavily watered and what happened was that the chicken litter water came out the bottom of the raised bed and killed the grass for 3 feet out in every direction.

I've been composting the chicken manure/straw /hay mix.
I'm not using it on tomatoes this year. I'm chicken ;)
But I will be adding it to the garden for giant pumpkins.
I am using Rabbit manure on the tomatoes and soil amendments and some Pumpkin Power 9-3-4.

Timng and placement of chicken manre
 

We keep a backyard flock and every spring we clean out the manure and mixed manure-bedding. When I was flat gardening I spread the four contractor wheel barrow loads of fresh "stuff" on half the "rows" in my 30x40 plot and tilled it into my sandy loam (top 8 inches) in early March. In late March and early April, I planted and had very nice crops. You pumpkins should be pleased....

Now that I have gone to raised beds I won't use it straight like that. I use the chicken manure and bedding as part of my spring cleanup compost bin. That bin gets all the leaves pulled from the flower beds in early March. I then add that compost on top of my beds in late summer for fall plantings.

thanks rebel