Relocating hose bib
 

For the past two years, I've had a bit of a pain with anything requiring the use of a hose in my garden. I have one hose bib on the opposite side of my backyard, requiring me to stretch out the house across my entire pool deck and out the door of the screen enclosure. I also have another one on the side of my house, requiring me to run a hose about the same distance and through the door of the backyard fence. Both are a pain.

I would really like to "relocate" the latter one to where the garden is. I've come up with a few options:

1. Have a plumber run some pipes underground from the current location to a new hose bib. Because I have concrete block walls on a slab, doing the plumbing inside is not really an option.

2. Same as #1 but attempt to do it myself.

3. Run an actual garden hose (I would think underground so it doesn't get cut by a lawnmower) to the new location, and hook it up to one of these, which I actually already have but have never used:

[IMG]http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/50/50b4df5d-e87c-4712-b9b1-342ad1490e18_1000.jpg[/IMG]

Any one have any thoughts? I have no idea how much #1 will cost, how difficult #2 would be (I can glue PVC), or how advisable it is to run garden hose underground.

I know of a community garden that solved their problem by renting a small gas powered trencher, making a trench from the location of the sillcock to the edge of the garden, burying poly waterline in the trench, then adding fittings to both ends of the poly in order to connect hoses -- a short piece at the building, and a longer hose for use in the garden. I think they got all the parts on Amazon, but you can probably find them at any irrigation supply store.

Since you're in FL, you shouldn't have to worry about blowing it out to avoid freezing during the winter.

Do it yourself.
DO NOT run a garden hose underground it is just well I dont know.:lol:
Worth

Could you run a hose through pvc pipe and bury that? At least your hose would be protected.

Hmm, if I'm going to run a hose through a pipe, why not just use the pipe?

I would think that a garden hose would hold up at least as well as the poly tubing that I use for my drip irrigation, much is which is underground (didn't start that way, but after 3 years, now it is), and despite our many pest problems including moles, I haven't had any leaks.

The problem with the pipe is that digging a ditch (or renting a ditch witch) does not sound like an enticing proposition. I guess if I ran it right alongside the house, I could probably pull the sod up and tuck it under.

Why bury the pipe? Run it and then use wood chips or such to cover it thickly.

[QUOTE=elight;657640]Hmm, if I'm going to run a hose through a pipe, why not just use the pipe?[/QUOTE]

Sounds like an awesome idea to me, lol. :yes:

You can always call an irrigation installer and see if they would be willing to come pull the line for you, and then you can do all the connections yourself if you wanted to save a few bucks.

A few reasons to bury it. One, so it doesn't make my side yard look silly. Two, so it doesn't run into a lawnmower. Three, because the Florida sun (and storms) can lay waste to just about everything.

If I'm going to pay someone to pull the pipes, might as well have them finish it off. =) Guess I gotta find out what it costs and if it's worth saving myself the aggravation.

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I buried a hose for only 6 ft in my garden, just to get it under a flagstone walkway. After one year it leaked underground. I vote for PVC if you want durability.

3/4" PVC schedule 40 underground is very easy and will last decades.

Really depends on if you have the proper tools to dig a ditch.
It can get expensive.
If you are in sand it is easy but you still need tools.
Duck bill shovel and ditch clean out shovel hard tooth rake root cutters and so in.
If you rent the machine you have to know how to use that thing they are heavy.
Sounds like a winter job to me.

I've done both pvc, and hose config.

if you have a "straight run" pvc would be good, 1/2 has better psi, but 3/4 is the usual suspect.

I use the hose config. (craftsman lifetime black rubber hose) b/c I had to navigate around some crepe myrtles and some other stuff. Haven't had a problem in 7 years. I build pvc around my garden deck (attached to side) with 10 spigots. I disconnect the hose in the winter time. The pvc above ground, I have had to replace a few breaks over the years, sun can be brutal and ANY water left in the pvc will crack it in a jiffy.

the hose to pvc fitting is compatable only though adapter, they are not natural thread relatives.

A pvc run can allow multiple risers on the same line, which can be an advantage. Esp. for leaky hose and such. During peak season, I have sweat hose on all my beds and just one turn on the main, turns them all on. uh, scratch that. the inline pvc hose turnoff (pic below) I installed had to be replaced every year and I removed. so no longer have that feature. I don't know why it kept leaking but it is not a solid piece and was the weakest link. It was a pain to replace to, b/c once cut off you were short to replace with another and also had to couple or replace one side of the line.

[ATTACH]75880[/ATTACH]

ha ha, just rambling now, but you git the gist. good luck.

Don't forget to have the city come out and check for pipes and wires where you want to lay your pipe.

[QUOTE=Rockporter;657775]Don't forget to have the city come out and check for pipes and wires where you want to lay your pipe.[/QUOTE]

I did that and it was a joke.
Worth

[QUOTE=Worth1;657781]I did that and it was a joke.
Worth[/QUOTE]

I'm sure it was. Here if you don't there is a mighty big fine to be had. I'd rather let them come out at no charge. If they goof it up, it won't be on my head.

[QUOTE=Rockporter;657804]I'm sure it was. Here if you don't there is a mighty big fine to be had. I'd rather let them come out at no charge. If they goof it up, it won't be on my head.[/QUOTE]

I wanted them to find the line running to my house so I wouldn't hit it.
And they wouldn't.
Any idiot would know where the main water line is along the street and the rest of the stuff is over head.

Total waste of time for me and my situation.:lol:

No gas line?

[QUOTE=dmforcier;657821]No gas line?[/QUOTE]


No gas line.

Worth

Schedule 80 is required for hose bib type yard pvc piping here in our agricultural and homes now(city water connect).Wells by design( not under constant pressure per say)have the open out( the ground)requires schedule 40 only.If you go on a vacation,and your Mickey Mouse rig tends to fail,it leaks like 3/4 inch pressurized line should do,all day and nite,two weeks later you come home,basement is filled to top steps.You get the bill,hefty to say the least.Insurance your savior for damage,not the bill.We like the durability of the PVC shut off,at city connect,at house ,and,before your bib.Redundency(x2)works well when in a emergency/ repair type situation,plus no long back and forth walking.The round (daisy) shut off is not allowed in commercial ops since they are not ADA compliant(no grabbing,lever only for hand arm wrist disability).Plus as we all know those friggin center screws rot out at the most improper time.The proper preclean/purple,and their super pvc glues will last a long time.The single levers for main shutoffs(brass)and the wing pvc shut offs for downstream as imaged above ( thanx my foot smells).Good luck,and don't be sniffing the glue .������

PEX pipe is all I use anymore, if you use crimp rings you will have to buy crimpers though. Shark bite fittings are expensive but you don't need crimpers.

[QUOTE=pmcgrady;657956]PEX pipe is all I use anymore, if you use crimp rings you will have to buy crimpers though. Shark bite fittings are expensive but you don't need crimpers.[/QUOTE]

For my automatic bird bath watering stand pipes I used sweat joint copper pipe.
Looks nice.:yes:

Worth

We had our house repiped with PEX when we moved in. Great product, but I wouldn't trust myself to do the fitting properly and who knows what it's like underground.

I'm tempted to go with a hose underground if I can tuck it under the grass without digging a ditch. I haven't had a freeze in my 4 winters here. And if it does leak, I'm just out the cost of a hose. And since I just want to use it for occasional watering, I wouldn't leave it under pressure anyhow. Thank you everyone for your input!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[QUOTE=elight;658052]We had our house repiped with PEX when we moved in. Great product, but I wouldn't trust myself to do the fitting properly and who knows what it's like underground.

I'm tempted to go with a hose underground if I can tuck it under the grass without digging a ditch. I haven't had a freeze in my 4 winters here. And if it does leak, I'm just out the cost of a hose. And since I just want to use it for occasional watering, I wouldn't leave it under pressure anyhow. Thank you everyone for your input!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

If you do use the hose and you use the thing in you pictuer at the beginning of the thread you will need one more fitting.
A female hose thread to what looks like a male 3/4 pipe thread.
Use brass.
It will have a male 3/4 pipe thread on one end and the swivel hose connection on the other.
A hose thread is 11 1/2 threads per inch no taper the 3/4 pipe is 14 threads per inch tapered.

I cant count how many times I have seen people try to screw these two mismatch threads together.:lol:
Worth

This statement about PEX in Wiki is totally wrong.
""[B]Greater water pressure at fixtures.[/B] Since PEX pipes typically have fewer sharp turns, there is greater water pressure at the sinks and showers and toilets where it is needed.""
No matter what size or type pipe the static water pressure will always be the same.
The flow is what changes due to friction loss in fittings and high velocity in long runs of pipe that is too small.
If you are losing flow/perceived as pressure at fixtures in and or around a house you are running to small a size pipe.
Any house should have at least 3/4 main pipes dropping down to 1/2 only at each faucet or other fixture.
I personally would run at least one inch from the meter even if the meter was 3/4 on a long run.
The other big mistake is not taking into consideration the house water when installing an irrigation system.
If it is taking all the water the house wont have any while it is running.
Seen that done by fly by night low bid installers.:lol:

Worth

[QUOTE=Worth1;658073]This statement about PEX in Wiki is totally wrong.
""[B]Greater water pressure at fixtures.[/B] Since PEX pipes typically have fewer sharp turns, there is greater water pressure at the sinks and showers and toilets where it is needed."":lol:Worth[/QUOTE]

Well now you have to fix it, lol.

Some reference info and guidelines we use here in fl.Pex is listed.

[url]http://www.ecodes.biz/ecodes_support/free_resources/2010Florida/Plumbing/PDFs/Chapter%206%20-%20Water%20Supply%20and%20Distribution.pdf[/url]

Indoor supply line is generally coded differently than outside supply line. PVC is generally not used here for outdoor supply - it can be used for discharge. 3/4 copper is standard from meter to house.

For outdoor application it would be ideal to run an insulated copper line off a T (possibly with a pressure regulator if needed), bury below the frost line and run to a frost free pump spigot that drains water below freeze line when turned off.

....but as previously stated, the craftsman **all rubber** lifetime hose I use on one application has held up 7 years, where needed to be "dug" into the ground, I simply scrawled a 2-3" deep line with a pick ax and laid the hose down. The grass has overgrown and have never chopped up with my mower - but if I did, Sears would give me a new one. That puppy stretches 100 feet too.

All my replys have irrigation in mind.Here where I am at,30 ft wells are needed for irrigation 10 more foot at 40 fr it is deemed safe for drinking.All this for a mere 300 bucs,add 10 for the extra feets,two cases of beer and wells at each end of property, most homes here come with a 1 1/2 or 2 inch,this was drilled at lot as option when building.Fills my pool in 5 hours tops at 23000gallons,clear filtered by oolitic limestone.

[QUOTE=kurt;658191]All my replys have irrigation in mind.Here where I am at,30 ft wells are needed for irrigation 10 more foot at 40 fr it is deemed safe for drinking.All this for a mere 300 bucs,add 10 for the extra feets,two cases of beer and wells at each end of property, most homes here come with a 1 1/2 or 2 inch,this was drilled at lot as option when building.Fills my pool in 5 hours tops at 23000gallons,clear filtered by oolitic limestone.[/QUOTE]

Is that fresh or salt.