Thank you Korney! I knew this thread was around somewhere. In BIY, now why didn't I think of looking there?! :oops:

Yeah, this is really cool!

Really does deserve some glue...??

Thanks, guys!

Glue? Oh! Yes, like STICKY!!!!

........Zakli! ;)

Has anyone tried triangular cages, with loops at the edges for hinges?
I'm short on space, and would need to be able to fold them up at the end of the season for storage.
I'm currently Florida weaving, but looking for another solution.

And Korney, I thought the rising price of iron ore was due to demand from China, but looking in your back yard....:lol:
T

Wouldn't square be better, mate?

You can still hinge them, and triangular would leave a very small centre, or would require really large sides. Just a thought...

I seem to remember seeing square panels of CRW at HD. It was taller than the rolls, but would have to be bent in the middle to use as half of a square as they were pretty big. Square would be awesome in a SFG. Or course taking up most of 3 squares.

A square cage with 24" sides will give you an area of 576 sq in inside.

A triangle with 24" sides will be about 250 sq in.

A circle with a 24" diameter will be about 484 sq in.

I was thinking triangle for stability reasons, but if seated properly to the ground, a square might work. I thought about the internal volume issue, but if some of the plant spills out of the mesh, I was thinking that it might be sufficient.

I really like the illustration in #27 so the tree cages are just about 2" different in diameter and can be nested in the off season, so long as they are not crumpled by being hit with a riding mower ;)

Pumpkin Supports
 

Been using 7' concrete mesh from Home Depot for tomatoes. Like idea of using for pumpkins. Use twist ties to form tube shape. Like idea of bending ends into hooks - get tired of cutting twist ties and hemp ties. Small dia. wire mesh cuts vines of the pumpkins as they hang so will add old panty hose or misc. netting hammocks to support body of pumpkins. Good ideas -- thanks.

I use the cheaper 5 foot concrete mesh. Instead of placing the cage on the ground, I wire it about a foot up off the ground, using a single T post as support for each cage. This serves to keep the bottom wire from rusting thru over time as well as extending the cage up to 6 foot. Cages are zip tied one-to-the-next in the row, giving a plant spacing of about 2.5 feet. One T post and two zip ties provides three very sturdy anchor points for each cage.

Zip ties are great, but for connecting wire to wire you should try Hog Rings or Deckers Hump hog rings. They come in different sizes and are made out of thick copper wire. They will last longer than the plastic ties and are EZ to use. The tool to crimp them is @ $5, and a box of rings is about $4. You should be able to find them at a farm store. They are intended to be used to put in the hog's nose to keep them from rooting.
I have used these to make pens, cages, fence repair, everything except putting them in a hogs nose (although the tiny poodle was digging in the mulch the other day, Rudy, Rudy, cooommeeeeer rooooody).

Check them out, they are right up there with duct tape, zip ties, velcro, and coat hangers for uses.

P.S. I have never seen silver CRW, out here it is rusted when you buy it!!!


Pete

Bumping this for anyone who wants it. I plan on making at least one big rolls worth of cages this year.

I use a 5" section of rewire cutting the bottom edge off which makes a bunch of prongs to stick into the ground. This holds them in the ground well for me.
My cages last season:
June 03 2009
[IMG]http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv21/riverwood/June0309-1.jpg[/IMG]

July 11 09
[IMG]http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv21/riverwood/July1109.jpg[/IMG]

July 27 09
[IMG]http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv21/riverwood/DSC02738.jpg[/IMG]