Thrips, mites and aphids; Oh my!
 

I did a quick search before posting. Hoping this is the right approach.

Over a period of just a few days, I noticed some discoloration on the lower leaves of my four week old tomato seedlings. They have been in Earhtboxes about two weeks, and the ones still in the seedling pots are unaffected.

Years ago I would have thought little of it, but last year a problem that started out fairly minor seemed to do some damage. (First two pictures)

Last year I recall blaming aphids (last picture), and 10 years ago I blamed (russet or spider) mites (second to last picture) , but THIS year, I'm thinking thrips. (picture three, four, five)

I've used spinosad for thrips on my nectarines, after years of scarring that I could not figure out. Much better now, although I understand spinosad is not harmless.

I've read Spinosid, and insecticidal soap works for thrips, but not as well, and that insecticidal thread works for mites and aphids.


Any opinions? Anyone know how long the soap lasts, premixed, and concentrate?

[URL="https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/thrips-control/"]https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/thrips-control/[/URL]

[url]http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7429.html[/url]

In the past I have had problems with the bugs you mentioned. Ever since i started spraying Spinisad and dusting DE on a regular schedule aint nuthin' livin' in my gsrden anymore. Its the only thing that works for me and it works well.

nuthin'? Not sure how I feel about that, but thanks!

Met52 is the answer to my whiteflies. It's supposed to work on thrips, too. From what I have read lately, no resistance to it from repeated use has been documented, which is the opposite of chemical sprays.

Thanks!

[QUOTE=Shrinkrap;642518]nuthin'? Not sure how I feel about that, but thanks![/QUOTE]

You dont need nuthin' if you dont have bad bugs. I still see plenty of pollinators.

[QUOTE=heirloomtomaguy;642521]You dont need nuthin' if you dont have bad bugs. I still see plenty of pollinators.[/QUOTE]

So I do need something since I DO have bad bugs?

I have plenty of polinators too, and want to keep them, so glad to know it can still happen.

Spinosad (Monterey garden ????) seems to have really improved my Nectarines. Weird it took so long for me to figure out it was thrips.

[QUOTE=Shrinkrap;642530]So I do need something since I DO have bad bugs?

I have plenty of polinators too, and want to keep them, so glad to know it can still happen.

Spinosad (Monterey garden ????) seems to have really improved my Nectarines. Weird it took so long for me to figure out it was thrips.[/QUOTE]

After one year of TSWV killing off 120 or so plants and another year spider mites killing off around the same amount i go for the total annihilation method. Now i get to eat tomatoes with far less frustration and disapointment.

I see aphids and spider mites. the one picture that says is this a bug? that is really bad mite infestation. clip off any leaves that look like that... covered in webbing. no help for that leaf at this point. insecticidal soap works fabulous on young infestations so does a hard spray of water from a garden hose, but it has to be directed at the underside of the leaves. My best approach to aphids when I had a really bad infestation in my greenhouse was ladybugs they got to the underside of all the leaves that were cupped or close to the soil line of any of the plants. if you can get beneficials established in your garden... because they have nectar, forage, coverage (hidey holes) and a protein source (bad bugs) they generally do a good job at keeping the bad bug pressure under control. I would be spraying with a (new, not a recycled one that you have had weed killer in)
hand pump pressure sprayer filled with soapy water-- on the tops and undersides of all leaves at this point and do a weekly scouting for the nasty bugs to keep them in check with the soapy water. the spidermite covered one may need to be pulled and tossed in a trash bag if the whole plant has those webs on it, and put in the garbage.

[QUOTE=heirloomtomaguy;642581]After one year of TSWV killing off 120 or so plants and another year spider mites killing off around the same amount i go for the total annihilation method. Now i get to eat tomatoes with far less frustration and disapointment.[/QUOTE]

What are you using for this total annihilation?

Bill

Thanks clkeiper, and thanks all! The spider mites picture is from many years ago, but I will keep an eye out. The aphid one is from last year, and no visable aphids yet this year.

This year's pictures are pictures 3,4, and 5. Sorry I couldn't make that clear.

Spinosad will kill all of those as well and is harmless to people/pets. It killed all my thrips in the GH last year.

Thank you!

3 4 &5 look like sunburn damage to me, not insects. I may be wrong but it sure looks like mine when putting tomatoes out for hardening off.

@cleiper, I hope you are right. That's what I told myself last year and then picture #2 happened, and worse. It took me years to figure out it was thrips damaging my nectarines. I don't I know why the subject of the damage they do on their I and veg doesn't come up more. Then I found these examples of thrip damage on tomato leaves.

[URL="https://laidbackgardener.wordpress.com/2015/12/29/when-thrips-attack/"]https://laidbackgardener.wordpress.com/2015/12/29/when-thrips-attack/[/URL]

[URL="https://negreenhouseupdate.info/photos/thrips-injury-tomato-foliage://"]https://negreenhouseupdate.info/photos/thrips-injury-tomato-foliage://[/URL]

Got me thinking. Other pictures in my search focused on the small block speckles of thrip poop (frass), and I think I see that near the edges of the close up pictures of this year's leaves.

is that this years pic of close up damage? then yah... get spraying spinosad is the least toxic and is considered organic, if you are organic.
or Cyhalothrin aka..Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer for Lawns & Landscapes Conc.; & RTS2 I don't know if it is labeled for direct use on the plants but it is on a chart for controlling them on tomatoes. on the following....


[url]https://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/plant_pests/veg_fruit/hgic2218.html[/url]

Those are pictures from an internet search, but I thought they resembled mine.:surprised:

[QUOTE=b54red;642612]What are you using for this total annihilation?

Bill[/QUOTE]

Spinosad and DE on a every 3rd week basis. I have not lost a plant to TSWV since.

[QUOTE=heirloomtomaguy;642581]After one year of TSWV killing off 120 or so plants and another year spider mites killing off around the same amount i go for the total annihilation method. Now i get to eat tomatoes with far less frustration and disapointment.[/QUOTE]

I'm having that year I'm now officially in the kill em all camp

[QUOTE=heirloomtomaguy;642857]Spinosad and DE on a every 3rd week basis. I have not lost a plant to TSWV since.[/QUOTE]


How much DE do you mix in per gallon? Does it clog your sprayer?

How do you apply the DE?

I sprayed it. Didn't measure anything but made sure it was mixed well.

[QUOTE=heirloomtomaguy;642857]Spinosad and DE on a every 3rd week basis. I have not lost a plant to TSWV since.[/QUOTE]

I just started spraying DE mixed with water and Dawn soap according to something Bill posted in another thread. I have some Spinosad can I add it in. I usually have mites of one kind or another.

[QUOTE=jtjmartin;642891]How much DE do you mix in per gallon? Does it clog your sprayer?[/QUOTE]

I dont spray it i dust it on using a Dustin Mizer. I found it works better than spraying it on. Just remember to use a dust mask.
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Dustin-mizer-Model-1212-Includes-Deflector/dp/B002KIB680[/url]

Do these pests and remedies vary with climate? Somehow I wonder if thrips, mites, and MAYBE aphids might be an especially hot and dry thing, while blights are not so much.

I use between 2/3rds and 3/4 of a cup of food grade DE for every gallon of spray I am making. I mix it first in a separate jug and then pour it through a strainer into my sprayer then add the other ingredients and extra water to make the amount I am looking for.

I don't see why you can't add Spinosad without any problems. I add Permethrin and Dawn and if I need to use a copper spray at the time I am using it I will add that and have had no problems.

I find spraying much easier than dusting and just as if not more effective but then I am applying it to a lot of plants. If it is a bit windy which it always seems to be this time of year dusting can be challenging to say the least. I do use it in my duster when I don't have many plants to treat and don't want to mix up a small batch for spraying.

Bill

Bill, do you happen to know the screen size on your strainer? I am going to mix up my first DE spray soon.

[QUOTE=Cole_Robbie;643012]Bill, do you happen to know the screen size on your strainer? I am going to mix up my first DE spray soon.[/QUOTE]

I use one of those fine stainless steel small strainers with a handle that you can pick up in any good super market or Walmart. They are the ones with the fine mesh but I have no Idea what the screen size is just that it is fine.

Bill

Oh yeah. I forgot to remind you to occasionally shake your sprayer to keep the DE in suspension as it will settle. I also recommend not setting your nozzle to too fine a mist or it may clog. If that happens just open it up to a stream and clear it with a short squirt. At least that is what I have experienced. The amount of DE I recommend is fairly high but I have found it is just high enough to give a good fine layer of DE that is effective against most pests. I have used smaller amounts but found they were less effective and I have used much larger amounts and found they clogged my sprayer too often; but if I got it sprayed on it was even more effective.

Bill