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-   -   Blossom End Rot Application (http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=49799)

TomatoDon November 11, 2019 12:17 AM

Blossom End Rot Application
 
I know this is old hat to practically everyone here, but I like to review the crop at year's end and see what I learned. This year my main problem was deer and coons, which is a totally different topic.

For now, I'd like to get an idea of what the growers here used to prevent blossom end rot. I know it has to do with water uptake, or lack thereof, etc. but I want to see what commercial products were used on a larger scale for blossom end rot. Such as, liquid through a drip line or dry amendments in the planting hole, or as a later side dressing, foliar spray, etc.

I know about the egg shells and tums and even Epsom salts (which I am becoming wary of) on a small scale, so I'm interested to learn what people use who grow a lot of tomatoes, such as 100, 500, 1,000 and more. I want to see if there are any new commercial products that can be bought in bulk other than the ones most of us have used in the past. I remember that Algo-Flash used to have a good line of products and one I used was called Cal-Mag, which seemed to work well.
Thanks
Don

arnorrian November 11, 2019 05:05 AM

I had terrible BER this year, but only on a single variety, black plum. Nothing helped. I sprayed it and watered it with Ca foliar fertilizer, added chalk around the roots, ant nothing. No other variety had any problem.

zipcode November 11, 2019 07:08 AM

Most people on a large scale use calcium nitrate, in drip (mostly as a feed, not only when ber occurs). Of course, drip itself is basically anti-ber, but when it's really hot there can still be problems.

There are many products for spraying in Europe. From them, Myr-calcium seems in theory as a good one, it's calcium complex-ed with aminoacids and it's a modern product. I have not used it, it's quite expensive.

slugworth November 11, 2019 08:32 AM

If I have BER it is usually on the plum type tomatoes and the round ones are fine.
This year it was just the opposite,varieties that have both types of tomatoes;the
round ones got BER and the plum type were fine.That is on the same plant.
Plants that I had growing in cement blocks did fine until the heatwave hit.
Calcium leeched from the cement maybe.

arnorrian November 11, 2019 09:05 AM

[QUOTE=zipcode;749433]Most people on a large scale use calcium nitrate, in drip (mostly as a feed, not only when ber occurs). Of course, drip itself is basically anti-ber, but when it's really hot there can still be problems.

There are many products for spraying in Europe. From them, Myr-calcium seems in theory as a good one, it's calcium complex-ed with aminoacids and it's a modern product. I have not used it, it's quite expensive.[/QUOTE]
I use [URL="https://www.mywuxal.com/en/product/super"]Wuxal Super[/URL] until the first fruits start forming, then switch to [URL="https://www.mywuxal.com/en/product/calcium-fluid"]Wuxal Calcium[/URL]. Not too expensive. At the start of the season I add some cattle chalk to the soil.

GoDawgs November 11, 2019 12:11 PM

I use the plain old Stop Rot (or equivalent) calcium as a foliar spray. Two applications a few weeks apart work for my 'maters.

AKmark November 11, 2019 01:16 PM

BER can be caused by uneven watering and drying out of the media to a point where the plant wilts. This causes a physiological disorder with the uptake of Calcium. Nothing can help until the plant repairs itself. Adjust watering.
BER can be caused by lack of Calcium- Add Calcium Nitrate, a hobby substitute is Cal-Mag, which also has Magnesium Sulfate which is central to the Chlorophyll molecule.

Ber can also be induced by too high of an antagonist such as Potassium. Here you adjust ratios of elements. This would be rare in dirt farming, but is common in constant feed systems.

Good luck


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