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-   -   Bay Window for my Tomatoes? (http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=42793)

murihikukid September 23, 2016 11:22 PM

Bay Window for my Tomatoes?
 
Hi...I never thought it would come to this but I have bought a Bay Alloy window for my old house so more natural light will help my Tomato plants which are inside and the wide window sill will hold seedlings etc .....
So I have bought the bay window ....and done some research on how one strengthens the area on the house wall where the window will sit.....and that is no problem for me...

Now because I have not done this before I need to know the best way to fit the bay window in the house IE....[U]Do I first screw a wooden frame around the alloy bay window so that the frame fits perfectly inside the opening frame [/U]that will be built on the house where the existing window is..

Once I know the answer ....I can move on with a few photos etc just to ensure I frame the window properly ...

Thanks Ron..

.

Worth1 September 24, 2016 12:23 AM

I hope someone chimes in that is a window expert I am not.
I would ((Think)) you would put that type of window in the frame already framed on the house.

Cole_Robbie September 24, 2016 01:13 AM

Wow, that looks like a big job:
[url]http://www.familyhandyman.com/windows/how-to-install-a-bow-window/view-all[/url]

good luck with it

murihikukid September 24, 2016 03:47 AM

1 Attachment(s)
[QUOTE=Cole_Robbie;593620]Wow, that looks like a big job:
[URL]http://www.familyhandyman.com/windows/how-to-install-a-bow-window/view-all[/URL]

good luck with it[/QUOTE]

Thanks....Not as difficult as growing tomatoes??..Its the bay window that concerns me ...I Presume there will be a frame built into the wall of the house with the necessary reinforcements to stop the house caving in?? only joking??? ...but such a big window will have to have a frame also that fits exactly into the wall frame.....and a few screws or nails banged in ...???

Of course its not that simple be cause the bay window top is on an angle ...the alloy channel cross piece still has the old wood screws in it because whoever removed it was not prepared to take the channel piece off to get the screws out and put it back on again....There has to be a solid wood length in the channel alloy ....One can easily see the bow thats in it ... its second hand??

I have posted a photo ....The Bay window is quite a bit larger than the present windows so a whole new window frame will have to be built into the front of the house...

Cheers Ron...

I will work on it at night in case the inspectors come around?

murihikukid September 24, 2016 04:10 AM

Hi....Of course alternatively I could put a straight piece of wood in the top of the window channel and allow for the angle in the window frame that I will put in the front wall of the house...i wonder if you notice what I initially thought was a broken window ..IE the left hand top narrow window ....I think its water trapped in between the double glazing ???Cheers Ron

kurt September 24, 2016 08:56 AM

Preventing water intrusion.
 
[QUOTE=murihikukid;593626]Hi....Of course alternatively I could put a straight piece of wood in the top of the window channel and allow for the angle in the window frame that I will put in the front wall of the house...i wonder if you notice what I initially thought was a broken window ..IE the left hand top narrow window ....I think its water trapped in between the double glazing ???Cheers Ron[/QUOTE]

At the head-er of the target opening of house by age old carpentry you should always have a double member of framing(wood, steel concrete header).If this is a assembly(complete unit,frefab ready to install)it makes it easier.Your opening should be no more than 1/4 gap all the way around(shim/installation space).This is a per South Florida Building Code(and everything I say from here on).All of the cut and reinstalled framing should have designed mending, joining steel HURRICANE clips.All house framing around should be doubled up.If this is a two story wall then some reinforcement of steel/tubes should be considered.Opening should be wrapped in a tar/asphalt type membrane for moisture and insect deterrent .Insert your assembly far enough to clear the DRIP CAP at the head that you must install to keep rain from entering the assembly.Foam/insulate everyhing you can in the work envelope,including that shim space.Stainless steel nut,bolts,screws will prolong durability of project. If the window is operational(slider crank opening)grease it up some and make sure new work does not interfere with the operation.If possible now is the time to incorporate a nice window sill( under assembly thick wide chunk of wood for effect and use).Finish the exterior of opening with some nice 1x4 trim around said bay window(caulked and sealed) and your good to go.Have fun(I just installed one here in S.Florida).


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