soil test results.....beyond reclamation?
 

I had my soil tested a couple of years ago and haven't really done anything with it yet. The county extension agent basically told me it is beyond reclamation. I'll build raised beds if I have to, but I really want to have an in-ground garden (even if its raised mounds).

In addition to the soil test info below, I'll add that the drainage is terrible. The water is about 2' down.
[INDENT]pH: 8.0
pH is high, but native and introduced plant species that are adapted to this pH should not be negatively affected.

Electrical Conductivity or Salts: 8.1 mmhos/cm
Salts are very high with may cause poor plant growth. Salts may be reduced by leaching the site with 6-12 inches of water to help push salts deeper into the soil profile to dilute their effect. Leaching depends on the availability of good quality water and good drainage.

Lime: High
High: Lime is 2%-5% in the soil. Plants can still grow quite well in soil with this lime content.

Texture Estimate: Clay
This soil may drain at a very low rate. Watering schedules may have to be increased to allow for better water infiltration into the soil profile.

Sodium Absorption Ratio: 23.1
High: This soil has high sodium and is considered to be sodic. Sodic soils can be reclaimed by leaching the site with good quality water. Gypsum or sulfur can be added to the soil along with water to help remove sodium from the root zone.

Organic Material: 2.0 %
Organic Matter is Low. Gradually increase the OM content to about 5% over a period of years. For 2-3 years in the spring or fall, apply 2-3 inches depth of plant-based compost, or 1 inch depth of animal-based compost, and incorporate into the top 6-8 inches of the soil in flower beds. When planting trees and shrubs mix the backfill soil with low salt OM such as peat moss at a rate of 15-20%. For established trees and shrubs add OM to the soil surface at a depth of 0.5 inch.

Nitrate: 13 ppm
N is low: Apply 0.3 lb N/100 sq ft to the soil. For each 0.1 lb of N needed, apply about 1/4 lb urea, or 1/2 lb ammonium sulfate, or 3/4 lb bloodmeal, or 1 lb corn gluten meal, or 5 lb alfalfa meal pellets per 100 sq.ft. Other fertilizers can be used as well. Check with your local garden center or home improvement store to determine what fertilizers are available in your area. When calculating fertilizer rates take the amount of N needed and divide by the % N in the fertilizer. For example, if your fertilizer contains 30% N, take 0.30 lbs (N needed) divided by 0.30 (N in the fertilizer) to get 1 lb of the 30% N fertilizer that is needed to apply per 100 sq.ft. For rates per 1000 sq. ft multiply the quantities by 10.

Phosphorus: 17 ppm
Phosphorus is High; No additional Phosphorus is needed.

Potassium: 563.3 ppm
Potassium is High; No additional K20 is needed.

Zinc: 15.5 ppm
Zinc is Adequate; No additional Zn is needed.

Iron: 18.8 ppm
Iron is Adequate; No additional Iron (Fe) is needed

Manganese: 7.4 ppm
Manganese is Adequate; No additional Mn is needed.

Copper: 9.0 ppm
Copper is Adequate; No additional Cu is needed.

Boron: 0.30 ppm
Boron is High. No additional boron is needed.

Gypsum:
Gypsum is NOT Needed.

[/INDENT]
Anyone think there's any hope of improving this soil enough to actually grow something in it?

I've considered a few things I could do. One is add a LOT of sawdust & a nitrogen source to get some non-manure organic matter in there. I have a massive pile of wood chips too. I have been composting them with manure, but I guess I could start composting them with a non-manure nitrogen source. There's also a couple products I've been considering (but would sure hate to waste any money if its a hopeless situation) - Soil Secrets products (as discussed [URL="http://soilsecrets.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Fixing-Saline-and-Sodic-Soil.pdf"]here [/URL]and [URL="http://soilsecrets.com/products-view/agriculture-grade-terrapro/"]here[/URL]) or ByoSoil Saltbind (discussed [URL="http://byogon.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/ByoSoil-SaltBind-TDS.pdf"]here[/URL]). I've emailed both these companies, but neither has responded yet.

I'd be thrilled if I could get to a point that I could at least start working with some cover crops for biomass and improving drainage. I certainly don't expect to start growing tomatoes and green beans this summer ;) Any input is appreciated.

hmmm wow that's difficult. Is this a natural site? Has there been industry or has all the topsoil been removed? I will leave this to folks from your area to advise if this is native soil conditions.
I would be most concerned about the salt and the lime. It's easy to add things to a depleted soil but very difficult to remove excess of anything. If it were mine and I had to stay there, I think raised beds might be the best option but lets see what your local folks think
KarenO

Honestly I have yet to tackle a soil like that. So I would only be guessing. I would start with about 6 inches of partially composted ramial wood chips though and maybe even try a hugelkultur bed. Does anything at all grow there? If so use those native species present as your cover crops! ;) What we can't recover, sometimes the native biology can. It's worth a try. Going to need some kind of native legume though.

[QUOTE=jojomojo;464550]I had my soil tested a couple of years ago and haven't really done anything with it yet. The county extension agent basically told me it is beyond reclamation. I'll build raised beds if I have to, but I really want to have an in-ground garden (even if its raised mounds).

In addition to the soil test info below, I'll add that the drainage is terrible. The water is about 2' down.
[INDENT]pH: 8.0
pH is high, but native and introduced plant species that are adapted to this pH should not be negatively affected.

Electrical Conductivity or Salts: 8.1 mmhos/cm
Salts are very high with may cause poor plant growth. Salts may be reduced by leaching the site with 6-12 inches of water to help push salts deeper into the soil profile to dilute their effect. Leaching depends on the availability of good quality water and good drainage.

Lime: High
High: Lime is 2%-5% in the soil. Plants can still grow quite well in soil with this lime content.

Texture Estimate: Clay
This soil may drain at a very low rate. Watering schedules may have to be increased to allow for better water infiltration into the soil profile.

Sodium Absorption Ratio: 23.1
High: This soil has high sodium and is considered to be sodic. Sodic soils can be reclaimed by leaching the site with good quality water. Gypsum or sulfur can be added to the soil along with water to help remove sodium from the root zone.

Organic Material: 2.0 %
Organic Matter is Low. Gradually increase the OM content to about 5% over a period of years. For 2-3 years in the spring or fall, apply 2-3 inches depth of plant-based compost, or 1 inch depth of animal-based compost, and incorporate into the top 6-8 inches of the soil in flower beds. When planting trees and shrubs mix the backfill soil with low salt OM such as peat moss at a rate of 15-20%. For established trees and shrubs add OM to the soil surface at a depth of 0.5 inch.

Nitrate: 13 ppm
N is low: Apply 0.3 lb N/100 sq ft to the soil. For each 0.1 lb of N needed, apply about 1/4 lb urea, or 1/2 lb ammonium sulfate, or 3/4 lb bloodmeal, or 1 lb corn gluten meal, or 5 lb alfalfa meal pellets per 100 sq.ft. Other fertilizers can be used as well. Check with your local garden center or home improvement store to determine what fertilizers are available in your area. When calculating fertilizer rates take the amount of N needed and divide by the % N in the fertilizer. For example, if your fertilizer contains 30% N, take 0.30 lbs (N needed) divided by 0.30 (N in the fertilizer) to get 1 lb of the 30% N fertilizer that is needed to apply per 100 sq.ft. For rates per 1000 sq. ft multiply the quantities by 10.

Phosphorus: 17 ppm
Phosphorus is High; No additional Phosphorus is needed.

Potassium: 563.3 ppm
Potassium is High; No additional K20 is needed.

Zinc: 15.5 ppm
Zinc is Adequate; No additional Zn is needed.

Iron: 18.8 ppm
Iron is Adequate; No additional Iron (Fe) is needed

Manganese: 7.4 ppm
Manganese is Adequate; No additional Mn is needed.

Copper: 9.0 ppm
Copper is Adequate; No additional Cu is needed.

Boron: 0.30 ppm
Boron is High. No additional boron is needed.

Gypsum:
Gypsum is NOT Needed.

[/INDENT]
Anyone think there's any hope of improving this soil enough to actually grow something in it?

I've considered a few things I could do. One is add a LOT of sawdust & a nitrogen source to get some non-manure organic matter in there. I have a massive pile of wood chips too. I have been composting them with manure, but I guess I could start composting them with a non-manure nitrogen source. There's also a couple products I've been considering (but would sure hate to waste any money if its a hopeless situation) - Soil Secrets products (as discussed [URL="http://soilsecrets.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Fixing-Saline-and-Sodic-Soil.pdf"]here [/URL]and [URL="http://soilsecrets.com/products-view/agriculture-grade-terrapro/"]here[/URL]) or ByoSoil Saltbind (discussed [URL="http://byogon.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/ByoSoil-SaltBind-TDS.pdf"]here[/URL]). I've emailed both these companies, but neither has responded yet.

I'd be thrilled if I could get to a point that I could at least start working with some cover crops for biomass and improving drainage. I certainly don't expect to start growing tomatoes and green beans this summer ;) Any input is appreciated.[/QUOTE]

I don't think it's any worse than the soil I had in Phoenix. You can add a drain tile underneath to improve drainage. Grow something that can be chopped to use for cover crops like amaranth or native corn the first summer, alternate that with cowpeas and then something deep rooted. Use lots of that aged wood chips,too.
I'm not sure why one part of the report suggests gypsum and the other part says it's not needed.
The nitrogen is easy to add. Use blood meal and then fish emulsion or alfalfa.
Just grow things that are more salt and high pH tolerant for awhile. Chars and beets would be other options, along with peppers.
Adparagus can do really well there if drainage is improved but will need lots of organic matter.

It may be that raised beds are your best option at the present time and also having a longer range plan.
Either way may success reward your efoorts.

jon:yes:

[QUOTE=KarenO;464552]hmmm wow that's difficult. Is this a natural site? Has there been industry or has all the topsoil been removed? [/QUOTE]

I don't think anything has been grown there for many years (previous owner had been here 30-40 years). I do think its likely he might have parked vehicles there which could have contributed to the compaction. If the topsoil was removed, I can't imagine why or when. I've been told that the reason the water table is so high is because everyone in the area is on septic. We also only get 8"-12" of rain annually.

[QUOTE=Redbaron;464559]I would start with about 6 inches of partially composted ramial wood chips though and maybe even try a hugelkultur bed. Does anything at all grow there? If so use those native species present as your cover crops! ;) What we can't recover, sometimes the native biology can. It's worth a try. Going to need some kind of native legume though.[/QUOTE]

My massive pile of wood chips are RWC (cut in winter though, so not much green). Any suggestions for speeding up composting? I'd be afraid of using chemicals for fear of killing what fungal/bacterial life there is and adding more salt.

As for what grows there - I'm not 100% certain, but I think a sad looking light green grass (saltgrass?), horseweed, and salt sage. We disturbed the area and added compost/sawdust/alfalfa/sulphur attempting to get a cover crop to grow (with no luck) and the weeds moved in (before that it was just that low growing light green grass). At this point, I'm welcoming anything that volunteers to grow there and leave its dying roots in the soil (except bindweed!:x)

I also bought some seeds for Saltbush (Atriplex halimus). It won't survive our winter, but if I can get it to grow all summer I can take cuttings to plant again in the spring. I've read it can help de-salinate soil. I imagine it would be ideal to lay down landscape fabric to catch any fallen leaves and remove the plants and dispose of them off site at the end of summer.

[QUOTE=Tracydr;464566] You can add a drain tile underneath to improve drainage. Grow something that can be chopped to use for cover crops like amaranth or native corn the first summer, alternate that with cowpeas and then something deep rooted. Use lots of that aged wood chips,too.
I'm not sure why one part of the report suggests gypsum and the other part says it's not needed.
[/QUOTE]

Only problem is finding something that will grow in all that salt. I'm not sure how expensive it is to add drains, but I imagine its not in my budget. I wondered that too about the gypsum. I think there's enough in the soil to help remove the salt, the biggest problem is flushing it out since the drainage is so bad.

If I went with raised beds (or mounds), how tall should they be? Will plants send their roots horizontally and avoid the saline soil, or will they send them down into it and suffer?

I appreciate everyone's input :)

I'm going to give some advise on your soil.
You dont have soil it hasn't been there for thousands if not millions of years.

As for the raised beds here is more of what I would call sound advise.
You have salts in your soil and a high water table.
This is what is going to happen.
You put down a mound of good soil and the water you use will come into contact with the water that is already there.
The salt will literally climb its way into the good soil you put on top by capillary action and ruin it.
You wont be able to leach out the salts because of the high water table.
It wont be no time at all that all of that good soil you put down will have salt crystals on top.

What I would do is create a barrier between the bad salty soil and the good soil you put in.
This would mean a raised bed with bottoms on concrete slabs or at the very least a good double layer plastic vapor barrier in between.
You can even put the mounds you speak of on the vapor barrier without the raised beds with sides.

Worth

What a mess? I would give it a miss and use containers, there are numerous versions and the range of plants you could grow would be sufficient for most families.
Certainly the easier way to go.:D

How big of a garden do you want? You could ditch all the way around and mound up the garden area and start watering, watering and more watering. Put a sump in the ditch and pump what seeps into it away. Keep checking the electical conductivity of what collects in the ditch. This all assumes you have plenty of good quality water. And with your clay soil, you are going to need plenty of time too.

There might be some kinds of crops that can suck down the water table too. Cant think of one that is salt tolerant offhand. One thing Im not clear on, if a salt tolerant plant transpires water, does the salt reside in that plants tissue? Or did the roots leave the salt behind in the soil (making it even saltier than before)?

There is always the container idea..

The salt stays in the ground it doesn't go into the plant.

The high water table is the problem.
And a raised bed with a bottom on it is far more practical and less expensive than a container.
Especially in New Mexico.
The plants can get everything they need in 12 inches of soil maybe less.

Worth

[QUOTE=beeman;464713]What a mess? I would give it a miss and use containers, there are numerous versions and the range of plants you could grow would be sufficient for most families.
Certainly the easier way to go.:D[/QUOTE]

Yes it is a mess, almost 3 acres of mess....

[QUOTE=Stvrob;464773]How big of a garden do you want? You could ditch all the way around and mound up the garden area and start watering, watering and more watering. Put a sump in the ditch and pump what seeps into it away. Keep checking the electical conductivity of what collects in the ditch. This all assumes you have plenty of good quality water. And with your clay soil, you are going to need plenty of time too.

There might be some kinds of crops that can suck down the water table too. Cant think of one that is salt tolerant offhand. One thing Im not clear on, if a salt tolerant plant transpires water, does the salt reside in that plants tissue? Or did the roots leave the salt behind in the soil (making it even saltier than before)?

There is always the container idea..[/QUOTE]

The field I want to work on is probably a little over a quarter acre, but I wouldn't start with a garden that big. I do have quality water (ditch water from the Animas River).

[QUOTE=Worth1;464779]The salt stays in the ground it doesn't go into the plant.

The high water table is the problem.
And a raised bed with a bottom on it is far more practical and less expensive than a container.
Especially in New Mexico.
The plants can get everything they need in 12 inches of soil maybe less.

Worth[/QUOTE]

From what I understand, there are some plants that do take up the salt, such as the Saltbush I mentioned before (salt is stored in the leaves). I think I'm going to give it a try (I need to get the seeds started ASAP). I'll get a new soil test before planting them and one after removing them. The soil tests aren't cheap, but I think it will be an interesting project (besides, I don't have anything better to do with that land lol)

For the most part though, I think I'm going to shift my focus to just getting decent pasture started for animals. I have raised beds right next to the chicken yard that are doing great - maybe I can give the chickens the boot to the salty field and set up more raised beds in the chicken yard.

[QUOTE=jojomojo;464797]

For the most part though, I think I'm going to shift my focus to just getting decent pasture started for animals. I have raised beds right next to the chicken yard that are doing great - maybe I can give the chickens the boot to the salty field and set up more raised beds in the chicken yard.[/QUOTE] Now you are talking. As I said before, I haven't tackled a soil like that myself. However as soon as you mentioned pasture and animal husbandry I knew EXACTLY who you should contact. The absolute experts on land restoration using animal impact. Not only that, but they are based in New Mexico and they are a Non-profit INGO.

So you have the premier international experts on land restoration with animal impact right in you back yard and they are non profit!:yes:

Now true they generally work with huge ranches and rangeland. But I highly recommend you contact them and see if they have some kind of program to teach you how to do it. I have talked to them on the phone before about my project. They are pretty helpful.

[URL="http://holisticmanagement.org/"]Holistic Management International[/URL]

Thank you for that Scott, I'll look into it.

I went ahead and placed an order with Soil Secrets. They recommend their product "protein crumbles" to be applied with the TerraPro (humic acid, mycorrhizae, etc) but I didn't buy it. Its basically an organic fertilizer that feeds the microbes. I don't know how necessary it is, but it couldn't hurt to give them a little something extra to munch on, right? Any suggestions? I tried to get spent grains from the local brewery, but they had to put me on a wait list. We get about 5-6 gallons of coffee grounds every week. Maybe something cheap from the feed store? Its time to clean the coop too - that's a few hundred pounds of coarse sawdust (plus manure). The test area is going to be about 1000 sq ft.

I'm going to test out a pasture mix for alkaline/saline soils in the area too.

Add alfalfa. Great soil conditioner and nutrients.

Alfalfa - yes! I thought I listed that. I love using that to prep my raised beds with and watering with alfalfa tea in the summer.

Any suggestions on composting wood chips without manure? I usually use alfalfa to heat up a compost pile, but I'm not sure if its enough for a pile of wood chips.