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-   -   Lathe Hack and old school tool use. (http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=42691)

Fusion_power September 7, 2016 12:17 AM

I put a Tesla turbine down at the river behind the house and connected it to a 15 kva generator head. When I open the sluice, that thing hums and makes so much electricity that it glows in the dark. Between the turbine generator and the 25 kw of solar panels, I might survive the apocalypse. Only problem I have is neither one of em will mow my grass. You got one of them 4 lane texas lawn mowers I could borrow?

I got the first side extension out of the electrolysis bath this evening and washed the rust off of it, then rubbed it dry. The second is in the electro-bath tonight and will be ready tomorrow. I'll buy some dark gray paint and coat them, then sand down the tops and wax them with a good quality car polish.

Tomorrow will get the first of the table saw disassembly when I remove the trunions. I plan on putting all of the cast iron parts in the electrolysis bath and then giving them a coat of paint to last a lot of years.

AlittleSalt September 7, 2016 12:34 AM

Welcome to Texas :))

Worth1 September 7, 2016 01:55 PM

[QUOTE=Fusion_power;591308]I got the first side extension out of the electrolysis bath this evening and washed the rust off of it, then rubbed it dry. The second is in the electro-bath tonight and will be ready tomorrow. I'll buy some dark gray paint and coat them, then sand down the tops and wax them with a good quality car polish.

Tomorrow will get the first of the table saw disassembly when I remove the trunions. I plan on putting all of the cast iron parts in the electrolysis bath and then giving them a coat of paint to last a lot of years.[/QUOTE]


I use mineral oil on all my rustables it works much much better than car wax.
A good ISO 32 or 46 hydraulic fluid works just fine.
It will creep into every crack and crevasse, and put it on your threads when you put stuff back together.
It also makes the wood slide across the surface like greased lightning.
And there is no worries about it getting in the wood and staining it.
I used a brand new flat Norton India stone to surface the top of my saw then polished with 600 grit and oil on a flat board.

Can you tell us the model number of the saw.

Worth

Worth1 September 7, 2016 06:36 PM

I got up today ready to drill the holes, put the center drill in the chuck reached up to grab the chuck key and it was gone.
Looked everywhere for it twice or three times to no avail it was frigging gone.
The stupid drill press has a clip thing to put the key in and I can never seem to remember to put it there.
Even if it do it falls out and runs off.
So it ends up in the must unlikely places.
Out of desperation I decided to look in my, (it wont get lost here drawer) in the house.
There it was along with the rest of the stuff I didn't want to lose.
I have no recollection of putting that darn chuck key in that drawer.
Well today I did what I should have done a long time ago I tied it to the press with a string.
The one that goes to the metal lathe is going to get tied to that lathe too.
Chuck keys of all things have driven me nuts for years.
The one on my hole shooter is tied to the cord.
Well anyway I have the holes drilled and threaded the stud installed and it all fits like a glove.
I decided not to make a nut with a handle on it to tighten the thing I came up with something else.

Worth

Worth1 September 7, 2016 09:39 PM

I think I have everything welded up and just waiting for it to cool down.
The part I am making now is the top slide that goes on the top part of the top part I made before.:lol:
Once this piece is cleaned up and fitted I will make the part that the tool rest goes into.
Right now it is square and clunky looking bout will be rounded off and ground.
Too busy to load pictures.


Worth

Worth1 September 8, 2016 04:12 PM

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Worth1 September 8, 2016 05:12 PM

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Yep that is a nick I have to fix in the last pictuer.:lol:
Looks just like the drawing.
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Worth1 September 8, 2016 06:49 PM

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dmforcier September 8, 2016 07:14 PM

Nice lug nut. Got a few of those myself.

Now I see where you were going with the stud. In order to secure the tool rest, you'll have to snug both the nut below the slide plate to lock the way runners, and the lug nut to lock the slide plate. Yes? But all with a single stud. Slick.

Worth1 September 8, 2016 07:43 PM

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[QUOTE=dmforcier;591540]Nice lug nut. Got a few of those myself.

Now I see where you were going with the stud. In order to secure the tool rest, you'll have to snug both the nut below the slide plate to lock the way runners, and the lug nut to lock the slide plate. Yes? But all with a single stud. Slick.[/QUOTE]


That is right and not only is the stud threaded into a 3/8 really hard plate in the bottom it has a washer, lock washer and a nut that will keep it from turning and add more holding power.
The lug nut was a dollar and one of the reasons I went with 1/2 20 threads.

I put it on the lathe and set it on the floor then extended it all the way out and jumped up and down on the end of the slide to try and break it.
Not gonna happen, it didn't even flex.
You can move it any way you want and everything slides like it is on greased glass.
Works better than factory.
The part where the slide runs on looks rough but it has bearing surfaces honed across it with low spots in it.
This allows oil to stay and lubricate it like the old flaking they did on machine surfaces.
Worth

[ATTACH]66221[/ATTACH]

Fusion_power September 9, 2016 12:44 AM

I got both side extensions fully cleaned and painted today. It took nearly a full can of dark gray spray paint to get a coat. Cast iron absorbs an inordinate amount of paint. Next target is to get the table disassembled and cleaned. That will take about an hour to disassemble and 12 hours in the electrolysis bath.

The saw is model 113.298761

loulac September 9, 2016 02:54 AM

[QUOTE=Worth1;591546]You can move it any way you want and everything slides like it is on greased glass.
Works better than factory./QUOTE]

A picture is worth 1000 words, now I can stop trying to guess where you're going. Just a word on your welds, you can do better than that ! when you have some spare time visit Jody Collier's site, a reference on several continents : [url]http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/[/url]

all the best

Worth1 September 9, 2016 08:25 PM

Here are my excuses.
Cant see through old ratty welding hood.
Welding hood fogged up.
No glasses on.
Out of argon.
Mosquitoes eating me alive.
Cant get in good position.
Electrical supply had lose connection in the wiring and I couldn't get my amperage to stabilize in one place.
(I was wondering why I was having to go up to 130 amps and them it would be too hot and I would have to lower it then back up again).
I discovered this today after I got a new bottle of gas and the welder wouldn't come on.
Need more practice as I dont weld enough.
Tig welding is darn near like flying a helicopter.:lol:
But the welds do hold and they look better than what was on it.
I also bought a new Miller auto darkening welding hood today from the welding supply shop.

Worth

loulac September 10, 2016 03:25 AM

[QUOTE=Worth1;591652]Tig welding is darn near like flying a helicopter.Worth[/QUOTE]

How right you are, but as you can weld with acetylen you have already made a big step.
With TIG an important point is to have a good rest for the hand holding the torch to keep a short arc steady and move along at a constant speed. Personally I always glide my (gloved) hand along a piece of wood set at the right place, it doesn't get hot. Of course it takes time to put everything into place but it's worth it.

dmforcier September 10, 2016 01:08 PM

You know, my bucket list isn't very big any more. Learning to be a good welder is still on it.




[SIZE=1] So is getting frisky with Sophia Vergara.[/SIZE]


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