Hitting a wall with container tomatoes
 

This is my first year growing a few tomatoes in containers. Most are in ground, but I ran out of space (isn't that always the way lol) and decided to try out containers.

These are 22 gallon Rubbermaid tubs, holes drilled in the bottoms, with ARGG, Big Rainbow and Sungold. (Not exactly suited for containers, but it's a long story as to how they came to reside there.)

Everything grew great the first month and a half. Very healthy plants with great fruit set. But for the last 2 weeks the plants have stopped growing, particularly the Sungold. The leaves on each have started to curl. I've been feeding with Texas Tomato Food, maybe 1/4 strength with every watering which is generally every other day. The soil is Miracle Grow potting mix, (regular not moisture control).

Am I doing something wrong or is slowed growth to be expected from this setup? The ARGG and Big Rainbow have around 15 fruits set on each plant. The Sungold has dozens, but was hoping for a little more from it. Any suggestions would be welcome. :)

[IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/23/ta6u4yza.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/23/5e5y6ury.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/23/uqa7uver.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks!
Laura

What has the ambient temperatures been in your area? Leaf curl can be caused by stress whether it's heat or lack of water. You might want to put your hand on the side of your containers and see if they are heating up from exposure to the sunlight.

Ami

"These are 22 gallon Rubbermaid tubs, holes drilled in the bottoms"

Holes should be in the sides 2" up from the bottom. I'll bet the plants are too dry and should be watered every day.

Mike in Cypress

The temps have been in 85-90 degree range. They don't feel dry to me when I stick my finger in the soil, but perhaps they are overheated. I've seen people use bamboo shades around the bottom, so I'll give that a try since I have some not in use if you think that would be helpful.

New problem - upon checking them just now I discovered the ARGG has wilted a considerable amount since this morning and is very damp feeling. The new growth as well as older leaves are wilting. I'll try watering to see if it helps, even though it doesn't seem to need it. I also noticed ants and small white bugs in the soil. They aren't raised off the ground at all. Could that be the issue?

Thanks for the replies!

I'm experimenting with containers this year. The I agree with Mike, holes on the lower sides is better.

I've been very satisfied with the progress on plants in [URL="http://sponsor.adverstitial.com/view/advertisement?loc=80719&adv=2596013&camp=608468&w=300&h=250&rnd=1163990534701334249"]SIP buckets[/URL] I made.
For these an adequate volume of vermiculite in necessary to insure the water will wick up.
Soil nurtients can also be tricky to negociate in containers.

[IMG][URL=http://s98.photobucket.com/user/JJJessee/media/Grow%20Log%202014/IMG_1272.jpg.html][IMG]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l266/JJJessee/Grow%20Log%202014/IMG_1272.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/IMG]

I don't think there is anything I can do at this point about the holes, but I'll note that if I decide to do new containers in the future Mike. These were thrown together at the last minute to accommodate some plants I didn't have room for. Lesson learned!

Those look nice Jesse & glad they are working for you! I have seen some really impressive setups on here. :)

A great way to decide to water, or not, with large containers, is to lift the side of the container. I do this every day, it works well for me, I have really reduced cracking with heirlooms, and yield is good too. Some appear wet on top but are very light when lifted, others the opposite. When you transplant your seedlings and water them in, a container that size will weigh 75lbs or so when wet, when dry maybe 20, if that.

I'll give that a try Mark! I can't lift them too much because of the trellis, but I think I can lift enough when wet and then dry to get a feel for the difference. I think that's been the biggest challenge for me - knowing just the right amount on water and ferts. No BER yet, so that's encouraging at least. :)

as a side note...water-logged planting mix can curl leaves as well as drought. I always recommend a cheap moisture meter probe. For 10 bucks...they really do work well. You can be surprised when you are judging from the tops of containers. Also, think well-draining mix! You are on the right track.;)

Sub irrigation is a kind of miracle technique, really. All container growing should be done that way, even smallish ones. It's not that hard to do and the plant ends up with a much greater water source that it can uptake as needed without the soil becoming water logged and watering intervals are extended a bit (eases the burden a little).

Meanwhile, you may want to see about raising the tubs off the ground. Ideally if you could get some catch trays, place some flat planks of wood or some other materials to help raise up the tubs so they're not resting on the bottom. I don't know how extensive the ant invasion is, but if it's a large colony that could be disturbing the root system.

SIP buckets
 

for you who use the water from beneath SIP method...I am trying to learn about those. I like the idea of less work! Do small/young plants have the root system and ability to "soak up" the needed water?

[QUOTE=Ed of Somis;419551]for you who use the water from beneath SIP method...I am trying to learn about those. I like the idea of less work! Do small/young plants have the root system and ability to "soak up" the needed water?[/QUOTE]
The growing medium will wick water upwards, so young plants still get enough. Just to make sure I do water for a short while through the top. The plants will tell you when you only need to water from the bottom.
I am using the "Alaska grow bucket" idea and am most impressed.

The soil is going to soak up water until gravity wont allow it to anymore. I watered mine right after transplant and thats it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

This is my first year with self watering containers and from what I know about soil water movement ill say too much water is more likely than not enough.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

I tried a new technique this year which is working very well. I cut long strips of microfiber cloth that I anchored in the wick zone, and guided upward on an angle as I filled the container with potting mix. I have witnessed at least a 15% growth difference in comparison to a another plant (same variety) that did not have the strips of cloth. I do water from the top in the very beginning, but after a week, I start filling the reservoir. Also, I add fertilized water from the top so that it gets into the medium for greater root access (rather than solely from below). It also helps lower build-up of fertilizer gunk in the reservoir that would attract undesirables.