Planning my corn, help please
 

Hello everyone,

I've had trouble with corn and am planning it a little better this year.

Here's what's in hand:

Buttergold se 63
Sugarbaby se 65
Luscious se 75
Ambrosia se+ 75
Honey Select se/sh2 80

I'm dedicating a length of RGGS exclusively to corn, it will have large volume rootpots, mostly 25 gallons. Each one of the above will have at least 1 rootpot all to themselves.

I'll time them so they tassel at different periods and don't inhibit each other.

[B]About how many plants do you think is appropriate for each rootpot? [/B]I was thinking at least 6 per bag.

The pots are about 20" in diameter.

Appreciate your input.

Not sure what the dimensions of the pots are, but for intensive plant spacing for early varieties 6" is recommended; for later varieties 8-10". Not sure if that helps at all. Corn is a really heavy feeder. Pollination should be aided by the close placement of the plants. I plant in circles anymore and can tie the stalks onto a central stake to avoid blow down in heavy winds/storms.

Ambrosia is our all-time favorite, btw!

kath

I use 25 gallon half barrels and have planted as many as 18 corn plants in them. If they don't seem to be doing well, you can remove the thin weak ones as they grow. But about 10 plants will grow nicely at the least. Don't forget to use blood meal or urea when they get about a couple of feet high, and use it a little at a time instead of all at once.

[QUOTE=kath;528772]Not sure what the dimensions of the pots are, but for intensive plant spacing for early varieties 6" is recommended; for later varieties 8-10". Not sure if that helps at all. Corn is a really heavy feeder. Pollination should be aided by the close placement of the plants. I plant in circles anymore and can tie the stalks onto a central stake to avoid blow down in heavy winds/storms.

Ambrosia is our all-time favorite, btw!

kath[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=HiPoha;528774]I use 25 gallon half barrels and have planted as many as 18 corn plants in them. If they don't seem to be doing well, you can remove the thin weak ones as they grow. But about 10 plants will grow nicely at the least. Don't forget to use blood meal or urea when they get about a couple of feet high, and use it a little at a time instead of all at once.[/QUOTE]

thank you both, exactly the kind of info I needed. Ambrosia sounds really good.

I was planning on using alfalfa and crab meal as N sources in the initial phase, and then hitting them with fish fertilizer and whatever [B][I]grow [/I][/B] formulation I can find for a decent price. And yes, little by little is key.

When the water's boiling I'm sure I'll get an invite!

This summer I will trade you corn for non-corn cokes.

Deal!

I don't know what kind of pests you have there, but it takes a lot of spraying to get worm-free corn ears. The tassels are supposed to be sprayed with seven regularly. You can't see the worms until you open the ears.

I even tried some GMO corn two years ago that had the BT gene, but I still had just as many worms. Later the seed company said that apparently what they sold me only works on European worms, not American. whoops. But they said if I just bought another $250 10-lb bag of the very newest stuff, then THAT would work...we promise. That's a lot of money to pay just so the raccoons have non-wormy corn to eat.

[QUOTE=Cole_Robbie;528901]I don't know what kind of pests you have there, but it takes a lot of spraying to get worm-free corn ears. The tassels are supposed to be sprayed with seven regularly. You can't see the worms until you open the ears.

I even tried some GMO corn two years ago that had the BT gene, but I still had just as many worms. Later the seed company said that apparently what they sold me only works on European worms, not American. whoops. But they said if I just bought another $250 10-lb bag of the very newest stuff, then THAT would work...we promise. That's a lot of money to pay just so the raccoons have non-wormy corn to eat.[/QUOTE]

Funny. "We promise this is the one that works"

I was planning on using Deltamethrin, Thuricide, and some Neem Oil. That should cover most intruders. From what I see on the roadsides, lots of small plots of corn seem to do well around here, even in the middle of winter.

The last two years I planted in less than ideal spots, and left it in the hands of my pops as I concentrated on the tomatoes. This time I'm taking over and making sure they put something out that's edible. To that end I bought some seeds that play well together (se).

I'm getting an itchy trigger finger here, that Met-52 stuff is calling to me. If I get an infestation of something I may have to resort to the [I]nukular [/I]option, just like C17H21NO4-head W 43 used to say it.

Hi Gerardo, I realize you are planting corn in pots so this won't really help you but I did the 3 sisters garden this year in Mendoza had had the best results so far with my corn.

[url]http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/3sisters.html[/url]

Celebrate the Three Sisters: Corn, Beans and Squash
by guest author Alice Formiga

[QUOTE=MendozaMark;528914]Hi Gerardo, I realize you are planting corn in pots so this won't really help you but I did the 3 sisters garden this year in Mendoza had had the best results so far with my corn.

[url]http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/3sisters.html[/url]

Celebrate the Three Sisters: Corn, Beans and Squash
by guest author Alice Formiga[/QUOTE]

I considered it, a lot as a matter of fact. However, in my garden beans and squash have proven to be magnets for every conceivable vermin, winged or otherwise. As a matter of fact I plant beans far away from my tomatoes and provide them as an offering/trap to the invaders.

I've had way better luck with cukes and watermelons than squash. And I sure gave it the ol' college try because eating beautiful, perfectly sized, yet extremely nasty tasting green squash is what prompted my whole gardening adventure a few years back.

So even though the three sisters have proven their singing chops, I just need one of them for this gig.

Great read on the link.

[QUOTE=Gerardo;528954]I considered it, a lot as a matter of fact. However, in my garden beans and squash have proven to be magnets for every conceivable vermin, winged or otherwise. As a matter of fact I plant beans far away from my tomatoes and provide them as an offering/trap to the invaders.

I've had way better luck with cukes and watermelons than squash. And I sure gave it the ol' college try because eating beautiful, perfectly sized, yet extremely nasty tasting green squash is what prompted my whole gardening adventure a few years back.

So even though the three sisters have proven their singing chops, I just need one of them for this gig.

Great read on the link.[/QUOTE]

I haven't had any luck growing any green varieties of squash but butternut grows like a weed here. On the off chance you haven't tried it, I highly recommend trialling it.

Brother I saw this thread and almost thought about helping.
I am not going to help because I will end up tilling and planting corn.
I'm outta here never to look at this thread again.:))

Worth

I recommend a minimum of 2 square feet per plant. 2. 5 square feet per plant is even better.

I wouldn't go past 3 per pot. Try to space them equidistant in a triangle. Plant Buttergold and Sugarbaby because they're smaller plants. Burpee has a variety that is geared toward pot growing.

PS for 3 sisters: In the old days corn varieties had thick stalks that could support the weight of pole beans climbing up them. Many of today's corn varieties have whimpy stalks that will pull down with beans growing up them.