Blacktail Mountain Watermelon-when ripe?
 

Well, thanks to all the help I've gotten from you all, I have a Blacktail Mountain Watermelon that I think is almost ripe. Can you tell me how to be sure?

Also, I have a total of four melons out of 13 vines planted. They're slowly coming along, but can I still get more melons at the stage? The vines are looking kinda "grubby"......

It's my first year gowing melons and I don't have a clue what I'm doing!:dizzy:

Thanks,

Janie

Not sure where you are located, but melons are negatively affected by heavy rainfall, specifically fungal and bacterial diseases as well as powdery mildew. Hopefully you've got your melon plants growing on a thick layer of mulch.

I think it is ideal to have 2-4 melons per plant but that takes ideal conditions. Probably 30-50% rich compost in very loose, sandy soil. After utter disaster last year, I am considering growing melons next spring and will implement everything I have learned and hope it pays off.


Telling a ripe watermelon is a challenge.

* The number of days-to-maturity can be helpful. When did you sow seeds?

* The white spot where the fruit is resting on the ground ought to turn a creamy yellow color.

* The vine attached to the melon should look a bit aged and perhaps somewhat dried. Also the leaves closest to the fruit can give clues.

* The skin of the melon might go from shiny and perfect to dull with a little bit of texturing on the top, like the melon is a bit sunburned. That's a sure sign.

* The "thumping" method of rapping a melon with your knuckles and listening for a tell-tale sound is a real artform and one I have not mastered. The sound should change from a hollow "ring" to a dull "thump" on a ripe melon.

Your best bet is to add up all the symptoms and if they all point to ripe, give it a shot. It would be less heartbreaking if you had so many melons that you didn't mind sacrificing some to check for ripeness. ;)


Cantaloupes are so much easier. They pick themselves. ;) Ok maybe not, but they usually release themselves from the vine (sometimes a gentle tug is required). And on a calm day, you'll know one is ripe in your garden the moment you step outside because that strong aroma really broadcasts.

I have sacrificed many a watermelon this season:shock: :shock: I am growing an heirloom watermelon called Tendersweet. I have found that the little curly deals on the first set of leaves close to the melon if they are brown then it is ripe. I have tried all of the stuff above (good advice) but I used them all up per watermelon. Ok just 3 hugmugo watermelons are in the compost pile........... sigh but the last 2 have been ripe. :roll: :roll: Last year I waited toooo late and they split open- go figure. I think I have this down (maybe) .......:oops: I will update with future failures.

Feldon, I planted seeds around mid-April and transplanted out the middle of May. 60 days would put it around this time. The vine does look funky, and it's resting on a sponge, with redwood bark under that. I live in Temecula, Ca, zone 8-9. We've had 0 rain since I planted out, and I only water from the bottom. The leaves have never been wet, and we basically get no fog. The mark on the bottom is white.

I'm going to check it out again tonight. Thanks so much for your help!:mrgreen:

With no rain and bottom watering, good rich soil (you can literally split open a bag of potting soil and a bag of cow or horse manure and plant seeds in that), I hope you get VERY sweet melons. It is suggested that you reduce watering when the plants are close to giving you ripe melons to concentrate the sugars.

Thanks so much, Feldon! I've wanted to grow watermelons forever, and reading about Blacktail Mountain gave me the "umpf" to give it a try! I'll keep you posted!:mrgreen:

my blacktails fell of the plant premature... I'm going to stick to melons (vertical) they seem to self-support better, they weigh less ...

I read somewhere that a melon is ripe when there is a crack where the stem is connected to the fruit ... it is ready to come of

Okay, guys, I don't think it's quite ready yet. The white spot on the bottom is very slight; the vine attached to the melon looks "fresh"; the skin isn't that dark (pictures I've seen look very dark); it's probably 8 inches big.

Boy, I sure hope I don't ruin my first melon!:dizzy:

[quote=the999bbq;66719]my blacktails fell of the plant premature... I'm going to stick to melons (vertical) they seem to self-support better, they weigh less ...

I read somewhere that a melon is ripe when there is a crack where the stem is connected to the fruit ... it is ready to come of[/quote]
Pretty sure you're going to need to support any melon bigger than a small canteloupe type with pantyhose or some other webbing, netting, etc. The vines alone cannot support 10+ lbs.

I've found the closest tendril to the stem test to be the most reliable - the tendril is the little pigtail shaped thing that emerged from the main growing stem closest to where the melon is attached to it. Once it goes brown and dries up, the melon should be ripe....but, as mentioned above, perhaps this in combination with a few others (the white spot going yellow is a good one). I just don't get the thump test at all! I will get to use the drying tendril method this year - growing watermelons for the first time in 16 years, and I have a 10 pound and growing yellow flesh Moon and Stars out there that I eagerly anticipate!

I have very limited experience in growing watermelons, but I've had pretty good luck so far, (knock on wood), with guesstimating ripeness. What has worked well for me is to check them every single day very thoroughly, so that subtle changes are more likely to be noticed. If you err one way or the other, it's usually best to wait. Sometimes a little too ripe can still be good, but underipe just doesn't cut it. Several ripeness indicators together is usually the best bet. The stems on mine always start to develop cracks and die when it is ripe. The tendral and/or closest leaf dying is also a good reliable sign.

Excellent advice, all around. For me, it's a compilation of clues. The nearest tendril to the stem turning brown is step 1. Next, I check the belly of the melon to see if it's still white (not ripe) or has turned a pale yellow. (likely ripe) Finally, I scratch the surface of the melon with my fingernail. When the watermelon is ripe, the rind hardens and takes on the duller tone mentioned earlier. A ripe melon's rind is harder and doesn't scratch as easily as an unripe melon's rind. Once you've done it a few times, you can tell the difference quite easily.

Can someone [SIZE=4][COLOR=Red]please[/COLOR][/SIZE] post a picture of a black tail mountain plant.

I have what is supposed to be one but the vines look like cantaloupe vines but it is just loaded with what looks like water melons.
Plus for a supposedly small plant this thing has covered up about 500 square feet of space.:roll:

Worth

I did not know they were supposed to be compact plants.

The picture at [URL="http://www.seedsavers.org/prodinfo.asp?number=967"]SSE[/URL] suggests the normal "frilly" watermelon leaves.

[IMG]http://www.seedsavers.org/images/967.jpg[/IMG]

What was your seed source?

I was mistaken the plant is a tiger/tigger? melon.

The Monsoon downpours we had all year washed my seeds down the hill and some came up and some did not.
needless to say I have no idea what some of this stuff is.

At least I will have Tiger melons.:roll:

I got the seeds from baker creek.

Thanks Morgan.:)

Worth