Thread: PVC cages
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Old April 26, 2012   #4
seeker
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Harrisburg PA
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elight, here is an excerpt from a post by qaguy on doing the legs:

"As a guide for the spacing of the verticals in the ground, I put together one of the squares using the crossover sections. I put that down on the ground. Then I push a stake (or a pencil or a chopstick) through the connector into the ground and that gives you the exact spot to sink the vertical pieces. I drive them into the ground about 12 inches. That makes them pretty stable.
"To drive the uprights in the ground, I use a 1-¼ inch piece of galvanized pipe with a cap threaded on one end. Slide the pipe over the upright and pound them into the ground. With my uprights, an 18-inch piece of pipe was perfect. Keep pounding until the bottom of the pipe touches the ground and each upright is exactly the same height. Having the exactly the same height avoids problems fitting the first square.
"You should (dare I say must?) drive them in very straight and upright. I don’t feel the need for trying to get them perfectly perpendicular with a level though. If they’re off by a lot, you might have some problems getting the first square to fit. The pipe is flexible; so some bending can be done in case if they’re a bit off.
"You can use a hammer and a block of wood or a rubber hammer to drive them in. I did for years. Then I discovered the pipe thing. It’s takes away the possibility of breaking the pipe, they seem to go in straighter (did I mention you need to drive them in very straight?) and it’s just plain easier."

We used this method for years. It worked very well for us.
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