Quote:
Originally Posted by tam91
"partial"
What I'd like to do is find a way to easily affix the labels to the top of the stake, so I can read it without bending over. It's metal t-posts at the ends of the row, and wood stakes in between the plants.
Any ideas?
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Noticed no one actually answered your question. I suppose you found some solution but if so was never documented. And since others may be interested, here's my answer plus some additional info on labeling.
1. Your request did not specify what size labels you were using, but this method will work for 1/8 to about1.25" wide labels. Here's how: Using galvanized wire of about 1/16" diameter (maybe 14 wire gauge or slightly smaller), wrap three (minimum) or 4 turns around the top of the T-steel posts or wooden posts and tie off. If using steel posts, the wire should be fairly taut, but a little less for wood. The wraps should be spaced about 3/8" apart. Then "weave" your label into the wire wraps. If you made the wraps a little too tight, use a thin bladed screwdriver to pry them apart just enough to slide the label into place but not so loose that wind vibrations will loosen them. If your wraps are a little too loose, use a pair of pliers and twist the individual wraps slightly to tighten them. After doing a couple you should be able to guage the tightness of the wraps better. If you use a sledge hammer or "pipe" type post driver for driving the posts/stakes, you should be able to leave these wraps in place for the following years use and insert/remove labels as needed. You could use black zip ties in a similar fashion (partial suggestion earlier) but by using them as weaving wraps, would allow use in succeeding years and/or for different plants.
2. There has been several discussions about labeling material scattered thoughout the forums. House siding material has been mentioned and I would like to point out some of it's finer features. ------ It is the most practical and cheapest labeling material I have found. Scraps can often be easily procured from any house siding project or you can buy an 8-10 foot section which will provide enough material for a whole bunch of labels. Since it comes in a variety of colors, you may be able to find a color that blends into your surroundings rather than the glaring white stuff normally used. And you can cut them to any size you want; tiny and inconspicuous or big enough to read from a long ways off. You can also cut them to any shape you want; strips to attach using wire as noted above, flat strips for inserting into the ground or pots, round pieces with small holes drilled in them for attaching with screws or wire loops. A heavy duty pair of scissors works best for cutting the siding or even a pair of "tin snips". And if you are really into production, use an electric saw with a very fine toothed blade. .
3. Black Sharpie markers for writing on them seem to last the longest whereas the colored sharpies tend to fade in the sunlight. Ordinary magic markers will probably fade in bright sunlight. And for more permanancy, try putting all your labels on the north or east side of the posts to minimize fading
4. I have used pieces of milk carton but they won't last long in the sunlight, are flimsy for large labels and takes bit more work if you need a lot of them.
5. For permanent markers for perennials, the earlier suggestions for using metal tags will be better than these plastic labels, though!
6. I still use a map to backup my on-site labeling and keep it on my computer so that I can refer to it in the following years as needed. Especially for rotation planting needs.
Cheers
Joe