Quote:
Originally Posted by tryno12
Thanks for the info/tutorial - much appreciated! I did the 4oz dilution last night after a couple days rain as a precaution. What exactly does blue mold look like and what fungicide do you use?
Thanks
Pete
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Pete it is called Gray mold. Usually the first indication will be one or two leaves deep in the shady portion lower on the plant that will look like they are wilting or even wet and drooped like boiling water was poured on them. It will also appear as gray to tan fuzzy looking spots on the leaves. When it is really bad it will affect the fruit with soft gray spots that rot the fruit and also have lesions on the stems like Late Blight but not as severe looking.
For me copper spray works better than Daconil for warding off Gray mold and it will even stop it if it is a very mild case sometimes. Copper in a stronger mix will sure give you some plant stunting on tomatoes so I prefer keeping to the lowest recommended rates and using it as a preventative rather than as a curative. When the gray mold shows up and it usually shows up on black tomatoes like JD's Special C Tex, Black Krim, Indian Stripe, Black from Tula and others that are similar. It is also deadly to some of the Green When Ripe tomatoes that I have grown in the past. It isn't usually a problem down here on most of the reds, pinks and golds unless they are right next to a black tomato that has a severe infection; but it may act differently in your climate.
Once you suspect you have Gray mold then the best course of action is to use the diluted bleach spray as described in the thread below. Read it carefully and make sure you understand how to mix it, apply it and when to apply it. Then use a copper spray after removing the dead and shriveling diseased leaves after the bleach has worked on the at least over night. I prefer to remove the diseased leaves after about 36 hours to give them time to shrivel up from the bleach spray.
http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...t=bleach+spray
Bill