I figured it was time to look back on stuff I’ve been trying in the ‘Tode War fight since I began this thread. So here’s the latest update.
Using nematode beds in cold weather
In post #56 above I had a revelation about planting only cold weather crops in ‘toded beds because ‘todes are inactive in cold soil temps (below 64 degrees). Also planting in them other crops that ‘todes don’t like or don’t bother like alliums and corn. First, after spring ’18 all plants were removed from those six beds. In June ’18, the six infected beds were left fallow from then through mid Feb of this year with the exception of onions and scallions growing along the sides of one bed and garlic along the sides of another. Starve the little buggers!
In mid February I planted broccoli down the middle of the garlic bed, cabbage and broccolini in the 2nd, peas in two beds (one of those not a ‘toded bed), cauliflower and kale in the 4th and collards at the end of the 5th bed. In late April I planted an early corn in the 6th. Some literature says corn is affected and others say not as it’s a grass and nematodes don’t mess with it. Although I failed to note down the soil temps at planting time, they were at least in the 50’s for all but the corn which went in at 62 degrees.
As it turned out, nothing in those six beds except the one pea planting that was in a ‘tode bed had any indication of nematode damage. Those peas May 10th:
Even the collards and kale that stayed on into hot weather survived unscathed. Certainly soil temps got into the active range. I’m just wondering if that’s because by then the plants had gotten to their mature size and were big and tough enough to laugh at the ‘todes. But the roots were all clean except for that one bed of peas, a veg which has comparatively wimpy roots to begin with.
The Molasses Experiment
In post #60 above I listed some research I had found indicating that molasses, in addition to aiding nutrition uptake, can possibly deter nematodes. On April 10th I planted four hills of straightneck squash in nematode bed #5 where collards were planted on one end earlier. Soil temp was 62, minimal for squash germination and yet not quite warm enough to trigger nematode activity. Pre-plant, the soil of two of the hills received 1/2 gallon each of pre-plant molasses drench (1 TBS blackstrap molasses/gal and two did not. Unfortunately one of the molasses hills failed to germinate and was resown on April 25 so for a good while it lagged the others.
May 17th, 4 collards far end, two untreated hills, two molasses treated hills near end:
All hills were subsequently fertilized every two weeks with 4 cups of Miracle Grow solution and the two molasses hills also received two cups each of the pre-plant molasses solution. The larger treated hill was the first to set a squash, seemed to grow faster than the others and make more squash. Those hills are still out there, still look decent considering their age, managed to avoid the squash vine borers and are still producing. I’m amazed at that. Does molasses help nutrition uptake? I think so and I will play with that some more. Does molasses deter nematodes? I don’t know as in the end, the untreated squash did equally as well as the treated ones. However once they decline and I pull the plants, the roots will tell the story.
The “Resistance” Test
After the one bed of ‘toded green peas were pulled, I sowed that bed with Knucklehull field peas. This variety was specifically bought for planting due to supposed nematode resistance. So far, so good. Knucklehulls on 6/25, 21 days after sowing:
Marigolds
I am now only growing marigolds for the butterflies and the myriad of other pollinators who really love them. Research I’ve read indicate that to do any good they must be planted thickly, like a whole bed covered with plants planted 7” apart in all directions and then tilled in at a certain age. The ones I’ve tilled in before kept getting caught in the tines and it was a pain in the patoot. Not to mention how many plants I’d have to grow for just one 4x18’ bed or all the seed that would have to be bought. Impractical.
Alfalfa meal
In post #38 above, Gardenboy recommended the use of alfalfa pellets as a fertilizer and for the nematicidal properties of alfalfa component triacontanol. It slipped my mind but after rereading this thread and being reminded, I’ve done some internet searching on this and although I’ve not found any university studies I have found several growing/gardening links that concur, one being
https://growingorganic.com/soil-guide/alfalfa-meal/. I need to stop by the feed & seed tomorrow and see what they have, hopefully something smaller than a 50 lb bag!
Soil Build-up
This continues gradually with regular replenishment of leaf mulch. I’m not tilling beds any more, trying to keep soil structure intact. It’s also too hard to clean and sanitize the tiller to prevent spread of nematodes from one bed to another. I do loosen the soil with the broadfork pre-planting. There’s also amendment of each planting hole and some rows with compost every time something new is planted. Purchase and incorporation of mass quantities of various amendments will not be happening at this time.
More Research
“Most nematode species are active during warm summer months and can’t penetrate roots at soil temperatures below 64°F. Therefore, you can reduce nematode injury to fall-planted crops such as carrots, lettuce, spinach, and peas by waiting until soil temperatures have dropped below 64°F.
Plant summer vegetables as early as possible in spring before nematodes become active. Plants with larger root systems, even though nematode-infested, might be able to remain productive longer.”
Another chart of what are susceptible to nematodes, from:
http://extension.missouri.edu/nodawa...0Autosaved.pdf
Unfortunately, a new battleground emerges in a new bed, one side of a bush bean bed. The Golden Rods weren't looking good:
And the reason:
Fortunately so far it's just one side of the bed. Go figure.