Quote:
Originally Posted by RJGlew
Thank you for taking the time to write this out & for providing the motivational picture. After reading this I'll see what improved fertilization does for me this season, since historically I have simply gone with 25% strength 20-20-20 one time per week. Calcium nitrate is basically 15.5-0-0, so can I assume you are using it in combination with the 4-18-38? Interested in the 1200 PPM figure - everything I read suggests that a PPM is recommended to growers for nitrogen, then the PPM of the phosphate and potash simply falls out from the fertilizer mix. So in your context, what does the 1200 PPM actually refer to? Is that your desired injector concentration? Epsom salts too - interesting - do you have magnesium and/or sulfur deficiencies, or is it a preventative measure? Best regards, rg.
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No, not PPM Nitrogen. That make some super green then super brown plants. LOL We do use some fertilizers like that, but they also break it down for us and include all elements. That number is read from a standard TDS meter, it comes right from the manufacturers.. It measures dissolved solids. Your conversion factor is 700, not 500 with the meter.
If you don't use Ca and Mg like they recommend your plants will die. Remember we are talking containers, small starts. When you get to your soil in the garden you will want to go back to your growing techniques or water this stuff down.
I prefer EC/ Electrical Conductivity. Most meters have both measurements which measure a charge put off by fertilizers. for seedlings it is something like 1.6-1.8, mature plants, 2.0-2.28.
Try Blue Lab. This is much easier than you think.