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Old August 6, 2018   #37
GoDawgs
Tomatovillian™
 
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Augusta area, Georgia, 8a/7b
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Man, I'm sorry to see those roots. Once you have them, you have them. From all that I've read, you can knock them back to a point where the damage isn't as great for a season but they'll be back.

Besides amending the soil as Bill suggested, there are other methods for abatement. A great article on this is:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html

Personally I have planted and tilled in marigolds, mustard and Sunn hemp, tilled fallowed beds periodically in the hottest part of summer, used resistant plants, tilled in leaves to improve soil and added what compost I have when prepping the planting holes. Rinsed all tools with water to remove soil when done for the day and sprayed them with 10% bleach solution.



I have read several times that application of diluted molasses can temporarily reduce nematode populations but dilution rates vary a lot. U of Mississippi was experimenting with that.


This fall I'm going to leave the infected beds fallow and plant spring brassicas and green peas there in January/February while the soil is cold. Since nematodes are inactive in cool soil and only wake up when soil temp gets above 65, the plants will finish before the roots get too damaged. Then I'm going to starve the little boogers for the rest of the year. (See Fallowing and Rotation paragraph).


Other variations on the theme:

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/control...getable-garden

Marigolds for nematode management:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ng045
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