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Old June 28, 2015   #14
digsdirt
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: No.Central Arkansas - 6b/7a
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Quote:
I may add a small layer on top of new soil or mulch. I did not have terrible disease problems in my pots last year but I want a barrier between the old soil and the plants just in case some disease wintered over in the new pots.
That sounds good in theory Sue but doesn't work in practice. If any soil in the container contains some disease then all the soil in the container contains the disease. There isn't a line in the sand that it cannot cross.

Quote:
What would you recommend for a granular? I have heard/read that organics don't work well for container gardening.
It isn't that dry, granular organics don't work. it is that they can't work since there is no active soil microherd in the pot of potting mix to convert them, to eat and poop them, unless you add it and keep it alive and happy. Which is difficult to do in a small container Liquid organics work fine.

Granular non-organic? Any plain old 10-10-10 granular fertilizer is as good as any other.

Quote:
you have about 3 more months to the end of your season. Therefore, neither the plants roots nor their top can outgrow small pots.
Seriously?? In 3 months time most any tomato plant and its rootball can easily quadruple in size and max out any genetic size limitations it may have.

Dave
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