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Originally Posted by SarahBeth
Thank you so much for the replies!
Ray-this is very helpful info and what I was wondering about.
The compost was mostly crumbly and soil-like, but was definitely not quite finished, as it didn't smell great.
I didn't mention that I thourouhly soaked the new plantings with Great White, so perhaps that would further explain the plants' seeming resistance to nutrient uptake. I have Neptune's Harvest fish/kelp, so can try that next, but a few days ago I also fed the plants with some Jack's 20-20-20 that I had around (not organic, obviously). I'm surprised that it hasn't really made a difference yet. I want to be careful not to over-correct the problem.
Worth- how much TT would you put in a 4x10x1' raised bed (thinking ahead to next year)?
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SarahBeth, I'm using Great White too. What I do with any mycorrhizal fungi , trichoderma & PGPR bacteria inoculant is I start using it from starting the seed. The bacterial spores and trichoderma spores will germinate rather quickly and will go to work in the medium, multiply and populate around the roots as they grow. The mycorrhizal fungi spores will germinate when they detect a growing root and will complete their association with the root in about a week or so. With mycorrhizal fungi it is important to not fertilize at first with anything with high available phosphorous (like Jacks 20-20-20). High available phosphorous in the soil water will inhibit spore germination. At transplant time I mix a 1/4 to 1/2 strength solution of Fish/Kelp and Great White and dip the transplant, pot and all into the solution until it's fully saturated and then remove the plant from the pot (obviously) and transplant into it's final home in the garden.
On "over-correct the problem", that's a nasty tendency of we human gardeners at one time or another to seek instant gratification.
We might make the problem worse by not having patience or by misdiagnosing the problem completely. Other factors determine nutrient uptake like soil PH.