One method I've used when my garden space was very limited and I needed to be sure of the exact number of viable seedlings I'd get: sprout the seeds wanted on damp not soggy paper towel inside a zip lock baggie not sealed tight. I place on a cookie sheet in the kitchen and keep an eye on them. Once they just start to sprout, I plant them in their small pots. I like the ones that are at least 3" x 3" and as deep as I can find. I have even used solo drinking cups with holes drilled into the sides and a few in the bottoms.
The deeper the better for healthy long roots.
Once the sprouted seeds are planted, I put the pots or Solo cups on a tray with the grates on the bottom and put that into a tray with no holes. Water bottom only. If I put too much water in the trays, I can just lift the tray with the grated bottom out, dump it out. This method of bottom watering prevents damping off and over watering. The soil wicks up what is needed and no more.
Also, when the seedlings have their first 2 sets of true leaves, start a 1/4 or 1/2 dilution of fertilizer once a week and after 2 weeks, use 1/2 to full strength dilution.
I don't use a starter soil with added fertilizer. That is just overkill as the seed provides all that is needed until the 2 sets of true leaves come in.
When in doubt as to how old the seed is, I double or triple the number of seeds I know I want. If you know your seed is older than 7 or 8 years, use Carolyn's seed wake up method. It worked for me with seeds 12 years old or so.
Large fruited tomatoes to my knowledge should germinate and grow the way all the others do. They just take longer to grow as most are late season types. Good luck.
When I've lost a few of my plants early in the season, due to them breaking off or a cutworm getting to them etc. I take cuttings from the plant (not a diseased one, you just keep the disease going) stick it into the ground and keep a close eye on it to keep it moist.
Good luck.
zeroma
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