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Old September 15, 2016   #5
Zeedman
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 313
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Provided that pea seed starts healthy, and is dried & stored properly, it can have a very long seed life. This year I planted "Nadja" (a soup pea) and "Sandy" (snow pea), seed from 2007 & 2009 respectively. They were direct seeded into the garden; I over-sowed, expecting poor germination - nearly all came up.

When I start very old pea seed (or small amounts received in trade), I plant single seeds in Jiffy strip 50's, filled with soil less mix. After planting, I add enough water to the tray to saturate the pots, and soak them over night. Any excess water is poured off the next day. If the seed is old or has previously demonstrated poor germination, I add a small amount of fertilizer to the water, since nitrogen can help to resuscitate old legumes. I used this technique last year on seed from 2005, and had 100% germination.

Peas don't give you as much of an increase per plant as beans do, so if transplants are used, it will take a fairly large amount to get anything meaningful. I try for 50 plants, which if spaced widely enough so that they branch heavily, can produce enough seed or pods to make the effort worthwhile. Varieties with tall vines, such as sugar snaps, are especially well suited for starting as transplants.

The directions for planting peas often state "as soon as the soil can be worked". ... but cold soil & weak seed can be a bad mix, especially if the soil is both cold & wet. Poor drainage, or excessive rainfall after planting, can result in heavy seed losses. Weather permitting, I will plant peas early... but more often than not, I plant them the same time as beans, and they usually do well. Note that it seldom gets above 90 degrees here in summer - this strategy probably would not work where summers are hot.
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