Quote:
Originally Posted by bower
I couldn't read anything at either link, so it's hard to comment about it... yet I think that the comment about compost is very contrary to everything I've seen.
A good compost is really an ideal soil for the microbial beneficials and for the exchange of nutrients to the plants. Compost normalizes extreme mineral soil conditions which are different everywhere. Just from looking at the list of topics on your second link, I have to wonder, is this man's method very specific to his own soil and climate conditions?
Besides compost, some nice rich fertilizers will definitely produce a better yield. Dried chicken manure dug in before planting with other amendments gave me the best production, and I had healthier plants too when I continue to feed them after fruit set. As long as your fertilizers are organic and not a big excess, I don't think you need to worry about having a bad effect on microbial life. I also think the theory of mycos is very sound except that they cannot really take the place of fertilizer if you want a high yielding crop. They are helpers but they have limits too.
IMO the best way to soften the negative impact of tilling, is to plant carrots, cilantro or parsely in the beds and let them get established before your time to plant tomatoes. All the plants in that umbelliferous family are obligate hosts and excellent hosts for mycorrhizae and those three will grow in cooler weather. Then just plant the tomatoes among them when the time comes, and pull carrots or harvest the herbs/mulch over them to make more space for the toms as needed.
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Thanks for suggestion! It is cool idea, I make sure to work on companion planting as timing of growing carrots etc ahead is not doable for me, I get land avail April 1 and plant tomatoes about April 20 in WOW.
I think this part of the view comes from Dr Carey Reams teachings, and they are considered to be controversial. But there is always two sides of the story.
Yes, I concur with everyone, me knowing my soil is the best thing to happen and evaluating and experimenting.
Last year I felt my community garden soil did not have soil energy. I did get plenty but felt it was a tough battle.
My plan for this year-am adding only top dress compost this year, my OM is pretty decent. Switched to Soft rock phosphate instead of fish meal. Will use urine for nitrogen sources as well as bat guano. Will add calcium nitrate and small amounts of MAP as periodic feeding. I have added sulfur, gypsum, sodium, manganese and borax as per soil test readings.