New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 15, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 94
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Fertilizer Needed?
Do tomato seedlings need fertilizer, if they are indoors for only 8 weeks?
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March 15, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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Yes. They will need nutrients. I start feeding them with a diluted liquid fertilizer weekly once I see the first true leaves at the strength recommended for seedlings.
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March 15, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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You're going to need to do something, 8 weeks is a long time. Most seedling mixes do not have a charge of fertilizer and most definitely they would struggle. What's recommended is exactly what Father'sDaughter said.
I have potted seedlings in 4" pots with Miracle Grow Standard Potting Mix and they did pretty good I thought. Even these charged products seem to run out of steam before it was time to bed. Take control, go with a non charged seedling mix and do it manually. I feel like a boss and the plants respond beautifully. |
March 16, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 94
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Fertilizer Brand
I'm afraid to burn my indoor seedlings. What brand of fertilizer do you use? What is your dilution ratio? I read full strength is too much for seedlings still in containers.
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March 16, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 94
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Would a homemade tea made up of the soil in our woods be beneficial for seedlings. No chemicals in it other then rotting leaves, rotten wood.
Or could that be used as potting mix? Its not soil, more like dense compost dug up in our woods. Everything is broken down. Last edited by christian1971; March 16, 2016 at 01:51 AM. |
March 16, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: germany
Posts: 190
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I think they need some fertilizer towards the end. I start them in a low nutrient starting mix and then transfer them quite early (1-2 pairs of leafs) in some nutrient rich potting soil, the fertilizer in there will last for around 3-4 weeks. That's when I start fertilizing them. I use a mineral fertilizer that will work directly, one that you'll add to the water once or twice a week and I start with half the amount recommended for tomatoes. It's a fertilizer that is usually used in professional watering systems but it's very popular in the german pepper and tomato growing community... They have different lines for different types of water.
I've tried organic liquid tomato fertilizer and got major defficiencies until I learned that my water here is very low in minerals and the organic fertilizer didn't provide enough Zn and Mg. |
March 16, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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I guess the 1st question, is what are your seedlings growing in now? A reasonable question before you start dumping.
I start mine in a sterile soil (although used Warrior Light this year (which I think has some additives), and then pot up w/ a potting soil that has fertilizer incorporated. However, I am no expert; but seems to do fine. Personally think it is important to get them some real sunshine and let the wind slap them around some. Controlled breeze and grow lights do not replicate very well, imo. At time of transplant is really the only time I give a boost by working the hole over, and of course, periods of fert through the growing season. 8 weeks is a long time per se' - but there is also something to be said by "reading" your plants. I think the 8 week mark is a good time to plant out and let nature take it's course, but see you are up in Minnesota; so maybe wee bit early. I do see where people here start their tomatoes a few months early, and not really sure of the benefit. I do not have inside room (although would like too); but once the weather gets right, the plants respond and catch up quickly and maybe more healthy by getting in the ground at the right time in their growing cycle. Just an apprentice opinion, I'm here to learn too. GL & Happy Trails. Last edited by My Foot Smells; March 16, 2016 at 09:02 AM. Reason: syntax |
March 16, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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I've used both Neptune's Harvest Fish/Seaweed and the fruit and vegetable formula from the Texas Tomato Food folks. The Neptunes was a bit smelly for indoor use, but the other worked just as well.
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March 21, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7
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I kind of had the same question but wasn't sure. I posted a new thread but haven't had any replys cause it had to be reviewed I guess idk lol I have about 60 tomato plants that I started all from seeds but a handful look weak and yellowing. Any suggestions?
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March 21, 2016 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,149
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Quote:
They look as if they are lacking nutrients. It is time to feed them.
__________________
~ Patti ~ |
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March 22, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7
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Thabk you. i figured out what the problem was tho. I may need some fertilizer but I had my metal halide bulbs to close to them ,they were about 25 inches or so away but it was to close I guess. I noticed all the ones around the edge of the table away from the light were fine and the ones in the center were all the ones yellowing and wilting.
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March 22, 2016 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7
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Well I moved the lights another foot away and more tomatoe plants look worse. Anyone know important is humidity in the room? Its really low because the room is 12 by 12 and I have a space heater going in it. I have to water daily pretty much. I'm guessing it's 20% or lower so could that be the reason?
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March 22, 2016 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7
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Any help is greatly appreciated
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March 24, 2016 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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Not sure that your light is the issue. Could you get your GermanRed out of the peat pot and get it into something a bit bigger and taller so you could plant deep up to its leaf set...?
The peat pots seem to cause stress by drying out in a odd way. And some tend to over-water for that reason. A plastic nursery pot like the square ones everywhere...or solo cups i use for the height. Feed from the bottom by setting your pots in a shallow tray for an hour, then let them dry out a bit before watering again. Drink cups need holes in the bottom and a few holes up the sides down low... Your feeding tray water needs food like a fish fertilizer. Lasts forever as only i tbsp in a gallon of water....and best to only mix what you will need for each feeding. Go easy on the fish fert at first. I keep a fan on low at just the right distance to see them dance a bit. |
March 24, 2016 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7
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Yes I have transplanted some already before leaves even started to turn yellow. So I actually have some in 8 inch pots 18oz cups and alot still in peat pots. The room is about 12 by 12 and it's basically getting the same air as outside. It's my breezeway and I have 2 400 watt metal halides and a space heater so that's why I asked about humidity. I plugged a humidifier in a couple days ago and there's a little new growth and it's green not yellow. So im hoping that's all it was. First time using peat pots and I don't like em at all lol I have a couple hundred plants inside my house under t8's and they look as good as could be.
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