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New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.

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Old December 2, 2006   #1
jwr6404
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Default Once again

I will attempt to start Tomatos from seeds. The Daughter is getting me a grow lamp for Christmas. I told her that my 100% failure rate was due to poor lighting. I'm going to try 2 varieties,Balls Beefsteak and Wisconsin 55 from TGS. With this Starting From Seed Forum and better lighting perhaps I will have a chance. The wife and daughter always have a laugh at my failures ,the're mean, but I'll show them next time.
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Old December 2, 2006   #2
Tomstrees
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good luck !
I'm sure everything
will come out just fine ...
Just keep in touch with this
site every step of the way !

~
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Old December 2, 2006   #3
feldon30
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This is what I did last year (and spring 2008 ) and had very good results:

* Use SOILLESS seed starting mix. It's $4 for an 8 quart bag. I have had trouble in the past making my own seed starting mix and now insist on buying seed starting mix. If you're making your own seed starting mix from peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, etc., and the peat moss does not have a wetting agent, add a gallon of warm water with 1 tsp of dishwashing soap* dissolved in it to wet it.

* If you are reusing any containers, dip them in boiling water for a few minutes or spray them with 10% bleach solution to kill any bacteria.

* Presoaking seeds in a weak tea and seaweed emulsion is purely optional but can increase germination rates. I add a tea bag to a cup of warm water and let steep for 5 minutes. I then discard the tea bag and add a few drops of Maxicrop liquid seaweed. I set aside several small bowls or cups, add my seeds, and then add enough of the soaking water to each to moisten the seeds.

* Moisten your seed starting mix first. Last year I put the soil in the trays dry and then wetted it and then had to add more soil. It was a mess. From now on, I fill a large bowl of seed starting mix and then moisten it and mix it well with my hands first, so it is still fluffy (not sopping wet).

* Sow shallowly! Smaller fruited vars like cherry, roma, etc. generally have smaller seeds. You may even want to drop smaller seeds on top of the soil and drape a few strands of peat moss over it.

* Don't overwater. Let seed starting mix start to dry out before misting again with a spray bottle, otherwise seeds may rot.

* Seedling heat mats ($35) are optional for tomatoes, recommended for peppers. Otherwise sow peppers 2 weeks before tomatoes. Peppers germinate and grow slowly if temps are below 80.

* Loosely cover seedlings with a clear plastic dome (leaving the corner tented open) until first seeds sprout, or if moss begins to grow.

* Use fluorescent (or HPS) lights no more than 1-2 inches above the tops of the leaves for 16 hours a day. Lights will not burn plants. Preferably, use one 40W cool white bulb and one 40W daylight bulb in a 4' fixture with a wide reflector. Lining the reflector with tin foil is not necessary.

* Place a small fan gently blowing across your seedlings for several hours a day to encourage them to strengthen their stems.

* Protect seedlings from bugs. When you bring seedlings outside for the first few times and right after sowing, consider some type of row cover material to keep out the opportunistic bugs (such as flea beetles) that will chew tender leaves.

* Harden off seedlings. Seedlings grown under lights must become slowly acclimated to sunlight before they can be planted in the garden. Start with 30 minutes of shade on day 1, then 1 hour of shade on day 2, then 1 hour of shade and 15 minutes of morning or late afternoon sun on day 3, gradually increasing to full sun on day 8 or 9. 11am-2pm is the hottest part of the day and most likely to damage plants. Damage will not be visible until the next day.


* Note about Dishwashing Soap from Mischka: I recommend anything without antibacterial properties or additives to soften your hands; plain old Palmolive® original green works well, as does Octagon®. There are also several brands that are derived from non-petroleum sources and contain no antibacterial agents or other additives, such as Seventh Generation's Free and Clear®, Method®, Sun and Earth® and Citra-Solv®.
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Old December 3, 2006   #4
amideutch
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Hi Jim, If you want a no brainer seed starting system use the "Jiffy 7's" Peat Pellets. You can get them with a Tray and dome that creates a small greenhouse. Once they germinate hit them with your gro light and once they hit the top of your dome remove it and let them rip. When mine get about 4 to 6 inches high I transplant them to 5" plastic pots filled with a good potting soil and set out when they get about a 12" in height. While the seedlings are growing in the Jiffy 7's you only need to water when the peat pots start drying at the top and do this by adding water to the bottom of the tray and the pots will soak it up.
Depending on the type of grow lite you are using will determine the distance you put it above the seedlings.
With Fluorescent 2" above and if its a halogen type that generates a lot of heat then 18" to 24" is needed.
http://seeds.thompson-morgan.com/us/en/product/m13600/1
The above url is just one site that carries the Jiffy 7 with the tray and lid. Hope this helps. Ami
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Old December 3, 2006   #5
feldon30
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If the peat pellets have webbing of some type around them, you might want to cut it off or at least cut it some in case the webbing doesn't break down fast enough.
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Old December 3, 2006   #6
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I haven't had the problem some report with the webbing. It doesn't break down, but, it does get pushed aside and production has been fine for me. I have also used ziploc bags with a moist paper towel, flats filled with seed starting mix and little cups. All worked fine. The only problem for me with the peat pellets has been the plants over-growing the pellet while I an not prepared to move them up or out. I hate disturbing young roots.
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Old December 3, 2006   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feldon27
* Warming undertray is optional for tomatoes, pretty much a necessity for peppers. Peppers will germinate and grow VERY slowly if temps are the typical 65-70 degree room temperature so drop the $8 on a seed starting warmer.
[/i]
feldon27, do you have a source for a warming undertray for $8?

All the ones I have seen are $30 or more.
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Old December 3, 2006   #8
feldon30
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Why I thought I could get one for $8, I am not sure. I just did a search and found dozens for $60, a few for $40, and one for $29.
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Old December 3, 2006   #9
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I use a flat cookie sheet on top of an old heating pad. It works fine. On low.
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Old December 3, 2006   #10
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Depending on the size of your seed bed, Here is an idea you can try out.

Using duct tape to construct a foam box. Home Depot 1/2" thick aluminum foil-faced foam board should work.

Inside the box use low wattage incandenscent light bulb(s), one or two or as many as the size of your box needs. Put the bulb(s) on a dimmer. You need to play with the dimmer to adjust the temperature.

Almost all the electric power will be converted to heat at 3.4 BTU per watt, and One BTU will heat up 1 cu. ft. of water one degree F.


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Old December 4, 2006   #11
amideutch
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Jim, Don't get to concerned about under tray warmers. As long as your ambient temp is above 70 deg F you shouldn't have any problem with seed germination, especially when they are in a mini greenhouse . Just find a warm, draft free place to germinate them. On top of your refridgerator is a good place unless yours is built in but you get the idea. Then move them to where your grow lites are located after they germinate. Ami
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Old December 4, 2006   #12
feldon30
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Again, it depends on if you are growing peppers or not. My peppers took FOREVER to germinate and grew VERY slowly in 70 degrees. The tomatoes didn't mind a bit.
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Old December 4, 2006   #13
jwr6404
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darch
Can I assume your an engineer?
Showed the Mrs your picture and she thought it would look perfect in her prayer room(thinks I need devine guidance) on top of her hand made/handcarved Jade furniture.
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Old December 4, 2006   #14
dcarch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwr6404
darch
Can I assume your an engineer?------------.
Nop. I am not an engineer.

If I were, I would have told you that the precise total heat gain would be the watts from the lights, minus the heat lost from resistance in Ohms of the wiring outside of the light box, minus the efficiency lost in the dimmer, minus the lost in “R” value of the light box itself, and finally the small lost in RF as any AC current goes thru a conductor.

Science is my passion, tomato is my hobby.

dcarch :wink:
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Old December 4, 2006   #15
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Hehehe...i Vote to Nominate DCARCH as the Forum Electrical EXPERT....an wish to say...that i think you got a LOT of Good Common, Practical ideas....Arch...)))

I really Appreciated viewin yo Simple drawin...for bottom heat, an the simple way...you drew it, an described...what to expect. TY...)))
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