Leaf Diseases

[Garf]

Lets see if I can make some pics show up.

<img src=http://www.mastercontrollinelinksite.info/T1.jpg>

[Garf]

Another attempt to post pic.

[Garf]

Here are more of the diseases that I have had to deal with.

[b54red]

My best advice for multiple foliage diseases is to use the diluted Clorox spray late in the afternoon. The details are described in some earlier posts in this section.

[pinakbet]

Originally Posted by b54red

My best advice for multiple foliage diseases is to use the diluted Clorox spray late in the afternoon. The details are described in some earlier posts in this section.

how much percentage of concentrated of clorox per gallon/ liter of water?

[carolyn137]

Garf, what you show are bothe bacterial and fungal foliage diseases , I won't go into the specifics, and your first photo indicates a virus disease.

There's nada you can do about the virus disease b'c those are insect transmitted. And for the other foliage diseases while I know that B4 is suggesting clorox, I would also suggest that you consider some anti-fungal and anti-bacterial sprays that have been tested and known to work.

B4, if Clorox was the wonder treatment, and it could be, I would expect to see more written about it eleewhere, I really would, but I don't see that. Foliage diseases are THE main diseases of tomatoes and when I think of the huge tomato indistry in this country and workwide in some other countries and I recognize the incredible amount of research that supports the tomato industry, I would have expected much more attention payed to Clorox as a cheap cure-all.

But I don't see that and please correct me if I'm wrong. Long ago I got lost in that other thread discussion about Clorox so maybe I'm forgetting something.

Same for peroxide treatments and ions which are about the same as Clorox in terms specifically of the hypochlorite ion.

[FilthyRich]

The White King bleach I am using is lemon scented and I must say that scent of lemon freshness throughout the garden is quite pleasing!

[b54red]

Whatever you do don't spray straight bleach on your plants. It needs to be diluted. The regular strength Clorox we have here is generally between 5 & 6% sodium hypochlorite. I use approximately 7 to 8 ounces added to one full gallon of water with a few drops of soap. Make sure to rinse your sprayer well because the bleach is highly reactive.
I had to spray mine yesterday afternoon again. My fall Cherokee Purple and the Black Krim started getting that black crud that Bubbacain was talking about earlier this summer. The black tomatoes seem especially vulnerable to that stuff; but rarely do I see it on the others. If you hit it early enough the Clorox seems to stop it or slow it to the point it isn't a major problem; but if you wait too long that crud can kill the plant.
FilthyRich, spraying with the bleach solution will actually increase the lose of leaves temporarily. The bleach solution seems to destroy the diseased leaves rather quickly and they usually wither up and turn brown within a couple of days.

[FilthyRich]

In regard to the dilution you mention; All under control here! The bleach I am using is 4% where yours is 5% I believe. Because mine is only 80% as strong as yours I have to multiply the dose by 1.25. So your 7 to 8 fluid ounces per gallon is equal to my 8.75 to 10 fluid ounces per gallon. Which, metric speaking equates to 68 to 78 millilitres per litre.
We have been having quite a bit of rain here. Hardly a day has gone past in the past three weeks where it hasn't rained; Which hasn't helped my situation timing the copper and mancozeb sprays. Do you find that there is a minimum time that the bleach spray needs to be applied prior to being washed off by rain or do you think that the fungus is killed almost immediately on contact with the bleach? Also do you think it would be beneficial to try spraying the garden soil in the bed to kill any spores that may be lurking?
No doubt others have tried your bleach spray method. Have you had any positive feedback concerning results from others?

[b54red]

As I have mentioned in past posts, when using the bleach spray during times of heavy rain and the plants never seem to dry, I use the stronger concentration because of the further dilution caused by the damp leaves. As to how fast it works, the bleach oxidizes very quickly so most if not all of it's action takes place within 30 minutes or so. The effect it has on the diseased leaves takes longer for you to see.
If you are getting rain every day you may have to spray up to several times in a week. If you are having cloudy mild days you can spray anytime. I have even sprayed as rain was starting to fall and had fairly good results from it because whatever action the bleach has will happens very fast.
I have gotten only positive feedback so far from others who have tried it. I'm sure some have tried it on things it won't help like fusarium wilt or systemic diseases. If the solution is too weak it doesn't work and if it too strong the damage to healthy growth can be fairly severe. Let me know what kind of results you get from the spraying.

[FilthyRich]

I do concur; This treatment does work! I have taken things a step further. I apply the lower dose every 4 days and find if anything, each plant that was destined for removal from the bed has actually behaved as if fertilizer were added. Fantastic, strong, new growth, clear of any infection. If anything I would say that the treatment does not only treat and remove certain plant infections but actually improves the health of the treated plant. Skeptics should give it a try. As a prophylactic treatment I don't think anyone could go wrong. This really is the answer..............I think.

[Dewayne mater]

b54red - I sprayed a 6 oz per gallon bleach solution on my fall plants on Monday and quite a few, the majority, of leaves seem to be suffering. Even leaves that had appeared green and healthy look kinda burned. Do you think they will recover or shrivel up and die? Should I hit them with some seaweed solution or something to try to aid their survival? We may only have a couple of weeks before a freeze and I figure I need all the leaves possible to aid in the leave to tomato nutrient exchange. Some leaves have shiveled and died, I will remove those. What about the others that look affected to but not dead? I'm wondering if I should have just used daconil or something that would slow but not eliminate leaf disease this late in the season? Any thoughts appreciated.

[b54red]

Garf if you used the milder solution correctly diluted and had that much leaf damage then you had plenty of disease. That is why I tell people not to wait too long after seeing the emergence of the disease to start spraying. Usually there is much more disease present than you can see. Is any of the new growth shriveling up? Usually the disease has not progressed that far unless it is something like Late Blight or TSWV which both seem to hit the new growth early on. I had some plants that got hit with both this fall but the spray seemed to stop the spread of the Blight to nearby plants. I still have nearly a dozen very healthy looking plants and about a dozen hanging on but still producing and nearly two dozen that are nearly dead. Besides all the diseases we had two nights of freezing weather that hit quite a few of my plants rather hard and even killed a couple.

Did you wait til late in the afternoon to spray?

I would just give it a few days, water them and see if the plants seems to be perking up.

[Garf]

I mixed the Clorox at 1oz to 15oz water. That is slightly strong. I killed 3 plants, most likely I didn't shake the mix well enough. The pics show the only green left on 2 of them. The third one is gone.

[b54red]

I'm sorry to see those pictures. I have never had that kind of result but I guess it's possible if the bleach was strong enough it might happen. When I was first experimenting with the bleach spray I used a 10 % solution on some plants and did have some significant leaf burn, especially when sprayed in the middle of the day in bright sunlight. The mix you describe of one ounce in 15 ounces of water is about the same as I would use or maybe a little stronger since that is around a 6% solution as long as your bleach is the strength with 5 1/4% sodium hypochlorite. Recently I have been getting some Clorox with 6% sodium hypochlorite and I use less, mixing 7 ounces to a gallon of water to give me the same solution I have found to be most effective with negligible leaf burn.