How do you grow your cherries?

Starlight · February 22, 2016

I've grown a few cherry type tomatoes before, but I have alot this year. Almost all my plants will be cherries and most from the MMM Swap that were graciously shared and I need to grow and save for the next swap.

I really could use some advice on the best way to grow them. Other than one or two, all the rest are new to me. I would like to know your opinions on things like:

Best size containers to use?
Do they need more or less fertilizing than the larger tomatoes?
Do you recommend letting sprawl, staking, some pruning?
What about watering? I have read on here of people having their cherries split. Is there a way to prevent this?
What methods do you use to stake them, if you stake?
How far apart should I place my containers? I would like to keep things nice, neat and organized.
Other than wind, I have almost zero pollinators. I plan on doing like last year of shaking the plants, like somebody had suggested. Will the stems on cherries hold up to shaking, or should I try a different method? Not sure how delicate these plants are and later when fruits are being produced along with new blossoms, will shaking, shake off the tomatoes. Not sure just how tough cherries are.

I would appreciate any help and advice to grow these varieties new to me. I'm excited. Always exciting to wonder and see what develops from plants that are new to you.

TIA

AlittleSalt · February 22, 2016

Star, I can offer what I have experienced over the past 5 years of gardening cherry tomatoes. You and a lot of people here know that I grow MANY cherry tomatoes because that's what the people I give them to want.

At least 95% of the cherry tomatoes I've grown are IND and have a huge plant. Many years, I've found that planting them 3 feet apart is just too close to each other. You need to prune them back some so that you don't end up with a solid wall of cherry tomatoes and plants. At 4 feet apart - they are easier to take care of (I plant in BIG cages with supports)

I learned last year during the record rainfall of 73 inches, pruning is a must - because otherwise you'll have a huge bushy plant with tomatoes that get very little sun.

That is just how I have grown them over the past 5 years.

This year, I'm going to try a lot of different ways of staking and pruning them. I've never done that before and will be learning along the way.

Cole_Robbie · February 22, 2016

When my plants get too big and fall over, the grass grows around them and the stink bugs get into the fruit. That's not a big deal if I am just eating them, but the cosmetic damage from the bugs makes the fruit unmarketable.

I realize there are plenty of people on here who grow indeterminates in containers, but if a raised bed is an option at all, I think that would be a lot easier.

sdzejachok · February 22, 2016

My potted tomatoes are all grown the same way - in a large cymbidium pot that's a little smaller than a 5 gallon bucket. This is my choice because I've had these for years and they work OK for me. These are filled up with compost. It works better to dump the old compost and fill it with new each year.

Cherries in the ground usually want to grow a plant 8' wide so the pot is going to limit the size, and the amount of fruit of course. They definitely need a cage or a couple of stakes. I put stakes up against the side of the pot. If the plant is getting too bushy I prune it, but probably trying to train it from the beginning would be better. Even so they get pretty wide so 4' spacing is good. Dwarf plants work a lot better in pots because you don't have to worry so much about containing the plant.

It helps if the plant is centered over the pot to keep it from falling over. If it is windy it is going over anyway. Cinder blocks help keep the pots upright.

They need watered pretty often because of the size of the plant, which to me is the biggest drawback of growing any tomato in a pot. They have to be checked every couple of days, even if it has rained recently.

Fertilizing - I'm pretty cavalier about that and couldn't comment. My compost is usually pretty good so I don't use anything until late in the season when the plants are big. Then I use whatever organic stuff was on sale. Probably not the best strategy.

Pollinating - if you are worried, greenhouses used to send people around with little vibrators to touch each blossom. Now I believe they order bumblebees to keep. I have a lot of pollinators.

It's big fun all the time trying something new!

jillian · February 22, 2016

I stuck a super sweet 100 in a 5 gallon container last year just to see what it would do. It was crazy prolific and stayed that way until I pulled it at end of season. I staked and caged it, it grew so large it kept tipping over. I am growing cherries this year in 10 gallon containers with cages. Good luck!

AlittleSalt · February 22, 2016

I have bunch of totes that I was thinking are around 10 gallons. I was wrong - they're bigger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-...-Unit/44785784

I wonder if you could grow two cherry tomato plants in one of these? You could plant interesting combinations...

A BWR cherry along with a Snow White = Yen and Yang

A GWR cherry along with a Medovaya Kaplya = Uncola/7UP

A Purple Haze along with a Kiss the Sky = A Hendrix Experience

I know it sounds funny

, but it might be fun doing something like this?

Deborah · February 22, 2016

Fun idea Salt. I once planned a row of Italian tomatoes that I would call "The Ciao Hall".

Ricky Shaw · February 22, 2016

I will plant cherries in my biggest fabric pots, 20 gallons, and support the extended 8 ft Texas Tomato Cages with a 6 ft T-post's on two sides. That should do it.

Starlight · February 23, 2016

Thanks for all the input folks. I appreciate it very much. I will surely be making a new garden plan marking things out to 4 feet.

I don't know why, but when I think of cherries, I think they should be small plants for the small fruits. Looks like from posts that is not going to be the case at all. Looks like I may be in for some surprises.

Sure glad I asked about container size. I was thinking 2 and 3 gallon would be enough.

I'll get back to this post later. Gotta get things locked down and braced and take a nice long nap. Looks like severe weather and more probable tornadoes during the night. Sure hope the other TV members in the projected areas stay safe.

Ricky Shaw · February 23, 2016

For a fact, the Sweet and SuperSweet 100's can be huge with vigorous roots. I invariably would plant two in a 4x4 raised bed and one would decidedly stunt the other, every time. I'm certain I could have planted one, and got larger cherries for the same overall poundage.

BigVanVader · February 23, 2016

Topping them mid season is an option as well, I have done it with success. Just make sure you have a sucker or two left. I like pruning tomatoes and sometimes go to the extreme to avoid overcrowding. Cherry tomatoes are tough as nails in my exp.

Bipetual · February 25, 2016

I squish mine into five gallon buckets rigged up to be self watering. They get to be 5-7 feet tall, but I suspect they stay smaller than those grown in the ground. I space mine about three feet apart and I don't prune. I understand why people do, but I don't want to limit my yield. I think topping might be a good idea, but I haven't tried it yet. Then again, they're not all that neat! And you have more heat and humidity, so you may want to prune.

I use the 6 foot cone cages that everyone laughs at, and tie the cages securely to my deck railings. You could also tie the cages to a sturdy stake driven firmly into the ground. Small containers like this, for me, seem to need liquid fertilizer every week or so despite planting with Tomato Tone.

Cracking seems to be determined by the variety and aggravated by wet weather. The thinner the skin, the more they crack. The best strategy for me has been picking them often, and as soon as they have some good color. They ripen up nicely on the counter.

Cherries grow like wild things, even in containers, and you'll have fun with them.

luigiwu · February 25, 2016

I grow everything including indeterminates and cherries in 5 gallon self watering buckets. I have a framework that makes it doable as they can be supported.

Worth1 · February 25, 2016

Several years ago I planted cherries in several 5 gallon buckets with yard dirt and placed them under shade trees.
Everything wrong right.

I ate cherry tomatoes all summer long and up into the fall.
Worth

BackyardFarm · March 1, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Worth1

Several years ago I planted cherries in several 5 gallon buckets with yard dirt and placed them under shade trees.
Everything wrong right.

I ate cherry tomatoes all summer long and up into the fall.
Worth

I have done this as well. (You do what you can when you're broke and just starting a garden!) The nice thing about cherries is they are hardy little (hah!) plants that still get huge and can take a lot of abuse/bad gardening.

In 2014 the Sungold in the 5 gallon bucket tried to take over the front porch...grabbed passerby like some sort of Adams Family plant...so...yeah. Buckets/planters in 5-10 gallons can definitely work!

February 22, 2016	#1
Starlight Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: AL Posts: 1,993	How do you grow your cherries? I've grown a few cherry type tomatoes before, but I have alot this year. Almost all my plants will be cherries and most from the MMM Swap that were graciously shared and I need to grow and save for the next swap. I really could use some advice on the best way to grow them. Other than one or two, all the rest are new to me. I would like to know your opinions on things like: Best size containers to use? Do they need more or less fertilizing than the larger tomatoes? Do you recommend letting sprawl, staking, some pruning? What about watering? I have read on here of people having their cherries split. Is there a way to prevent this? What methods do you use to stake them, if you stake? How far apart should I place my containers? I would like to keep things nice, neat and organized. Other than wind, I have almost zero pollinators. I plan on doing like last year of shaking the plants, like somebody had suggested. Will the stems on cherries hold up to shaking, or should I try a different method? Not sure how delicate these plants are and later when fruits are being produced along with new blossoms, will shaking, shake off the tomatoes. Not sure just how tough cherries are. I would appreciate any help and advice to grow these varieties new to me. I'm excited. Always exciting to wonder and see what develops from plants that are new to you. TIA

February 22, 2016	#2
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	Star, I can offer what I have experienced over the past 5 years of gardening cherry tomatoes. You and a lot of people here know that I grow MANY cherry tomatoes because that's what the people I give them to want. At least 95% of the cherry tomatoes I've grown are IND and have a huge plant. Many years, I've found that planting them 3 feet apart is just too close to each other. You need to prune them back some so that you don't end up with a solid wall of cherry tomatoes and plants. At 4 feet apart - they are easier to take care of (I plant in BIG cages with supports) I learned last year during the record rainfall of 73 inches, pruning is a must - because otherwise you'll have a huge bushy plant with tomatoes that get very little sun. That is just how I have grown them over the past 5 years. This year, I'm going to try a lot of different ways of staking and pruning them. I've never done that before and will be learning along the way. Last edited by AlittleSalt; February 22, 2016 at 12:14 PM.

February 22, 2016	#4
sdzejachok Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 98	My potted tomatoes are all grown the same way - in a large cymbidium pot that's a little smaller than a 5 gallon bucket. This is my choice because I've had these for years and they work OK for me. These are filled up with compost. It works better to dump the old compost and fill it with new each year. Cherries in the ground usually want to grow a plant 8' wide so the pot is going to limit the size, and the amount of fruit of course. They definitely need a cage or a couple of stakes. I put stakes up against the side of the pot. If the plant is getting too bushy I prune it, but probably trying to train it from the beginning would be better. Even so they get pretty wide so 4' spacing is good. Dwarf plants work a lot better in pots because you don't have to worry so much about containing the plant. It helps if the plant is centered over the pot to keep it from falling over. If it is windy it is going over anyway. Cinder blocks help keep the pots upright. They need watered pretty often because of the size of the plant, which to me is the biggest drawback of growing any tomato in a pot. They have to be checked every couple of days, even if it has rained recently. Fertilizing - I'm pretty cavalier about that and couldn't comment. My compost is usually pretty good so I don't use anything until late in the season when the plants are big. Then I use whatever organic stuff was on sale. Probably not the best strategy. Pollinating - if you are worried, greenhouses used to send people around with little vibrators to touch each blossom. Now I believe they order bumblebees to keep. I have a lot of pollinators. It's big fun all the time trying something new! Last edited by sdzejachok; February 22, 2016 at 01:03 PM.

February 22, 2016	#7
Deborah Riding The Crazy Train Again Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: San Marcos, California Posts: 2,562	Fun idea Salt. I once planned a row of Italian tomatoes that I would call "The Ciao Hall". __________________ "The righteous one cares for the needs of his animal". Proverbs 12:10

February 25, 2016	#13
luigiwu Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: ny Posts: 1,219	I grow everything including indeterminates and cherries in 5 gallon self watering buckets. I have a framework that makes it doable as they can be supported. __________________ Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7!

February 22, 2016	#3
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	When my plants get too big and fall over, the grass grows around them and the stink bugs get into the fruit. That's not a big deal if I am just eating them, but the cosmetic damage from the bugs makes the fruit unmarketable. I realize there are plenty of people on here who grow indeterminates in containers, but if a raised bed is an option at all, I think that would be a lot easier.

February 22, 2016	#5
jillian Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: North Carolina Posts: 880	I stuck a super sweet 100 in a 5 gallon container last year just to see what it would do. It was crazy prolific and stayed that way until I pulled it at end of season. I staked and caged it, it grew so large it kept tipping over. I am growing cherries this year in 10 gallon containers with cages. Good luck!

February 22, 2016	#8
Ricky Shaw Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro Posts: 1,910	I will plant cherries in my biggest fabric pots, 20 gallons, and support the extended 8 ft Texas Tomato Cages with a 6 ft T-post's on two sides. That should do it.

February 23, 2016	#9
Starlight Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: AL Posts: 1,993	Thanks for all the input folks. I appreciate it very much. I will surely be making a new garden plan marking things out to 4 feet. I don't know why, but when I think of cherries, I think they should be small plants for the small fruits. Looks like from posts that is not going to be the case at all. Looks like I may be in for some surprises. Sure glad I asked about container size. I was thinking 2 and 3 gallon would be enough. I'll get back to this post later. Gotta get things locked down and braced and take a nice long nap. Looks like severe weather and more probable tornadoes during the night. Sure hope the other TV members in the projected areas stay safe.

February 23, 2016	#11
BigVanVader Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Greenville, South Carolina Posts: 3,099	Topping them mid season is an option as well, I have done it with success. Just make sure you have a sucker or two left. I like pruning tomatoes and sometimes go to the extreme to avoid overcrowding. Cherry tomatoes are tough as nails in my exp.

February 25, 2016	#12
Bipetual Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Illinois, zone 5a Posts: 579	I squish mine into five gallon buckets rigged up to be self watering. They get to be 5-7 feet tall, but I suspect they stay smaller than those grown in the ground. I space mine about three feet apart and I don't prune. I understand why people do, but I don't want to limit my yield. I think topping might be a good idea, but I haven't tried it yet. Then again, they're not all that neat! And you have more heat and humidity, so you may want to prune. I use the 6 foot cone cages that everyone laughs at, and tie the cages securely to my deck railings. You could also tie the cages to a sturdy stake driven firmly into the ground. Small containers like this, for me, seem to need liquid fertilizer every week or so despite planting with Tomato Tone. Cracking seems to be determined by the variety and aggravated by wet weather. The thinner the skin, the more they crack. The best strategy for me has been picking them often, and as soon as they have some good color. They ripen up nicely on the counter. Cherries grow like wild things, even in containers, and you'll have fun with them.

February 25, 2016	#14
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Several years ago I planted cherries in several 5 gallon buckets with yard dirt and placed them under shade trees. Everything wrong right. I ate cherry tomatoes all summer long and up into the fall. Worth