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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

 
 
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Old August 28, 2013   #11
AKmark
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 2,010
Default BER

It does seem, that once a plant variety that is prone to get BER goes dry, even once, BER damage cannot be reversed with anything but time. I have learned to pick them off and ignore it, and keep plants watered evenly as the summer progresses. As summer moves along they become less of an issue then disappear totally. I did have a couple of plants throw out some late season BER because I went kayaking and my water person did not do a good job and some wilted alittle, a week later or so some new BER.
I think the plants ability to uptake CA++ is affected because of damaged roots, which upsets the equiliberium between above and below the ground. This problem, with watering corrections, appears that over time to correct itself, as the plant slowly heals the roots,/ the problem, and restores the lost equiliberium between root and plant. That is why they seem to fix themselves with time, rather than with more CA++ which it cannot uptake anyway. In nature, when balance is disrupted, leaves will survive during drought only if flowers and fruit are dropped, and this ensures survival of the plant itself. I am convinced nothing we do can fix it, only self healing within the root structure fixes the problem. I am not a fan of additives anymore either, forget the Cal-Mag etc., I got no results, even dropped using it, they were just fine in time, long after I quit using my fixers.
As a side note, my plants in the larger containers had much less of the problem same varities cross matched too.
Anyway! my two cents/ rubbish for the most part I'm sure. (lol)
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