Information and discussion for successfully cultivating potatoes, the world's fourth largest crop.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sherwood Park Alberta Canada
Posts: 147
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I have some wireworms in my garden spot and have avoided Growing potatoes these last years. Will grow them this year.
Will filter fabric grow bags keep them out? Will Diatomaceous earth slow them down? Any organic suggestions for control other then traps? Thanks, Brad |
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 776
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I noticed some wireworm activity in a raised bed that I've planted potatoes last year. I rotate my crops in raised beds and have not got a problem yet but reading about it I found that they prefer cool soil and it warms up they dig deeper. The publication suggest to use a stick with raw pieces of potato and trapping them with those while the soil is cold and then tilling and expose any top layer of the soil to the warm weather before you plant.
I have never seen one in my pots. I fill my pots with compost and promix for drainage. Not knowing what soil you plan to use growing in bags why don't you only use compost and some mix like the promix or vermiculite for better drainage?. If you must use your soil can you only use your soil top layer after is warm? and avoid digging into where the worms want to be. Good luck and happy gardening! Hopefully more savvy people will chime in with knowledge. I have not been found yet by potato beetles crossing my fingers!
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Wendy |
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: 9a/Sunset 7 N Cal
Posts: 4
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I've also had wireworm problems these last couple of years - I didn't come up with much in searches for organic controls, but did find the mention that they are most common in areas that were recently sod. So I'm crossing my fingers that this proves to be true, and planting my potatoes in my most established beds.
I did have considerably less damage last year than the year before, so maybe populations are declining! I'll be interested to see any additional responses to your question! ~emmers |
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#4 |
Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204
Posts: 1,157
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extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/pnw/pnw607.pdf
The link above is fairly precise on how to understand wireworms. I see difference in the thousands of potato varieties/selections that I grow. It appears that some late varieties are better than early ones. I would seriously have to compile my data to verify this however that would take time to do so. I found that time of planting has a lot to do with wireworm damage. It seems the earliest ones get hit more than the latter plantings. I plant over a five month schedule....March through July...with TPS seedlings starting about May. Wish I could remember all the locations...planting times..and damage by variety. |
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 776
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I got to agree with emmers, the bed that had the wireworm activity was the most recently converted from grass patch to garden. I also noticed Tom some of your varieties did not get wireworm damage but I was too busy to write it down! This year I am more focused to write down all my observations since I am deciding to drop some varieties based on disease resistance.
Also this article from Oregon state points at brassicas as reducing wireworm and I've seen it! I use brassicas also. See my rotations: year 1: nightshade (pepper/marigold/cilantro, potatoes, tomatoes/basil/marigold) year 2: allium (shallots, garlic, onion etc) year 3: carrots, radishes and greens year4: brassicas second kind year1: legumes (cowpeas, beans etc) year2: corn year3: legumes year4: corn/bean/squash
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Wendy |
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#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sherwood Park Alberta Canada
Posts: 147
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Thanks all for your good posts and feedback
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Medbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,881
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I had always thought the wireworm was more of a problem in higher rainfall areas,my climate been a low rain area means ive never ever seen the bug in my crops.
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Richard |
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