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Old January 12, 2018   #3091
Barb_FL
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Larry - I'm so sorry; that looks devastating. Did you have any surviving plants?

Being on the coast, our lows were about 35. I seem to have a lot of wind burn, etc. I brought some plants in the garage and covered the ones that weren't massive. I also brought some under the porch; on the first cold night I did a massive cover but the 2nd night, just left them under the porch near the house. I think the house threw off enough heat b/c those plants still look good.

The broccoli and lettuce thrived during the rain/cold.

Tonight starts a new cold spell, but I think the lows will be in the 40s. One thing for sure, even if plants make it, is a major setback on fruit production.

Did you ever find out what was the broccoli culprit?
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Old January 12, 2018   #3092
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After the cold spell and the subsequent fog in the morning for several days running I have incredibly massive disease throughout my entire tomato garden. It's been quite a fight the last couple of days cutting off disease leaves and getting them sprayed. I am almost but not completely caught up.
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Old January 13, 2018   #3093
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Sorry to hear about all the trouble with the cold spell and the diseases.

Larry, you can collect green tomatoes and let them ripen inside. Pink and yellow varieties ripen pretty good. Black varieties are more finicky to ripen. MDH picked green tomatoes first week in November because of the freezing prediction and they were ripening gradually. We were making salads from our own tomatoes up until a week ago. The cherry were picked with the vine, they hold on it as they ripen. Yes the taste suffers, they are not as sweet but still better then the store tomatoes.
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Old January 24, 2018   #3094
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Perhaps there is nothing impressive about it, but seeing cauliflower growing in Miami with my own eyes made my day. Too bad I don't know the variety since it wasn't labeled when I bought it.

Also this Cowlick's Brandywine bloom seems to be merged with the leaves.
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Old January 24, 2018   #3095
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That is great max, I can't get cauliflower to grow.
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Old January 27, 2018   #3096
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I'm perusing Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog and seems they're really marketing their heat tolerant broccoli and cauliflower F1's. It's already late, but I think I will order a few variety. Anyone have grown these variety before? They certainly are not cheap.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-l...son-chart.html
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-l...son-chart.html
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Old January 27, 2018   #3097
Barb_FL
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Max - Larry and I have been growing the Castle Dome broccoli for the past few years. Reason - It is fast, good tight heads. Also found that the same plant will produce 2nd/3rd heads in the same season. You really want to get one that grows fast. Seeds are not expensive either.

That is where I am in my season. 2nd heads are starting to form.

The cold winter has been a boon to broccoli and lettuce growing.

I recently sowed seeds and have seedlings now. Larry starts his last batch around March/April. He is the Florida broccoli guru.

----
For cauliflower, the last time I grew it, it was a purple variety.


ETA - For Johnny's - I would pick Green Magic - Fastest and good heat tolerance. I've grown it before.

Also, as long as you are paying shipping, Johnny's sells SunPeach (cherry tomato). It is excellent; leaves all other red/pink cherry tomatoes in the dust in every category.

Another thing I ordered from Johnny's that I never saw elsewhere is: their Salanova lettuce. I bought the Home Garden Mix. Pricy, but only plant 1 seed. Typically, I'm only good with growing Parris Island and Little Gem.

Last edited by Barb_FL; January 27, 2018 at 09:06 AM.
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Old January 27, 2018   #3098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barb_FL View Post
Max - Larry and I have been growing the Castle Dome broccoli for the past few years. Reason - It is fast, good tight heads. Also found that the same plant will produce 2nd/3rd heads in the same season. You really want to get one that grows fast. Seeds are not expensive either.

That is where I am in my season. 2nd heads are starting to form.

The cold winter has been a boon to broccoli and lettuce growing.

I recently sowed seeds and have seedlings now. Larry starts his last batch around March/April. He is the Florida broccoli guru.

----
For cauliflower, the last time I grew it, it was a purple variety.


ETA - For Johnny's - I would pick Green Magic - Fastest and good heat tolerance. I've grown it before.

Also, as long as you are paying shipping, Johnny's sells SunPeach (cherry tomato). It is excellent; leaves all other red/pink cherry tomatoes in the dust in every category.

Another thing I ordered from Johnny's that I never saw elsewhere is: their Salanova lettuce. I bought the Home Garden Mix. Pricy, but only plant 1 seed. Typically, I'm only good with growing Parris Island and Little Gem.
Thanks for recommendation. I will get both Green Magic and Castle Dome, Parkseed have them together.

Do you think I can still get anything if I start now and grow them in the shade?

I don't think I am going to grow any specific cherry for a while since I want to give crossing a try.
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Old January 27, 2018   #3099
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It can't hurt to try. You will probably get over 100 seeds per pack and germination is always good. One seed per head; so you could try 10 seeds from each and save the rest to sow next October/November depending on where you live.

I would just shade the seedlings and then let the plant get full sun until it gets too hot.

I planted my first batch (9 plants in a 4x4), then about a month later planted 9 in my neighbors yard which is shaded. A few weeks later I planted 3 more 4x4s and today I finished picking heads from ALL of mine (some even really large) and she doesn't even have heads forming yet. It was continuous picking from 12/24.

Since they were my seedlings, the only thing I can think of that is different is the amount of sun.
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Old January 27, 2018   #3100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barb_FL View Post
Max - Larry and I have been growing the Castle Dome broccoli for the past few years. Reason - It is fast, good tight heads. Also found that the same plant will produce 2nd/3rd heads in the same season. You really want to get one that grows fast. Seeds are not expensive either.
That is where I am in my season. 2nd heads are starting to form.
The cold winter has been a boon to broccoli and lettuce growing.
I recently sowed seeds and have seedlings now. Larry starts his last batch around March/April. He is the Florida broccoli guru.----
For cauliflower, the last time I grew it, it was a purple variety.
ETA - For Johnny's - I would pick Green Magic - Fastest and good heat tolerance. I've grown it before.
Also, as long as you are paying shipping, Johnny's sells SunPeach (cherry tomato). It is excellent; leaves all other red/pink cherry tomatoes in the dust in every category. Another thing I ordered from Johnny's that I never saw elsewhere is: their Salanova lettuce. I bought the Home Garden Mix. Pricy, but only plant 1 seed. Typically, I'm only good with growing Parris Island and Little Gem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxjohnson View Post
Thanks for recommendation. I will get both Green Magic and Castle Dome, Parkseed have them together.
Do you think I can still get anything if I start now and grow them in the shade?
I don't think I am going to grow any specific cherry for a while since I want to give crossing a try.
I’m operating a bit different this fall through spring season. I start beds with Pike Snap beans. Pike is a very concentrated set, therefore, I can get it out of the bed in 1 pick, 2 at the most. Then I have my Broccoli plants ready to go in. My plan is to grow 2 crops of Broccoli, then as the weather warms up follow with Pike Snap beans again.
In one large bed I started this way with Snap Beans, and now I am on my 2nd crop of Broccoli. The second crop should be out of the bed by the 3rd week of February, leaving me enough time for 1 and just maybe 2 crops of snap beans.
I’m growing 3 types of Snow peas and 1 type of Snap Peas. The freezes nipped the Oregon Giant Snow peas that did so well for me last year. But the Mammoth Melting Sugar Snow Peas and Oregon Sugar Pod II Snow Peas look ok. Also, my Super Sugar Pod Snap peas got a bit zapped with the freezes but are starting to look ok.
I grew 4 varieties of Rutabaga this season. All produced well, but I didn’t care much for the taste of any of it. Good compost material. I also grew Fennel and while the smell of the tops is very nice the taste of the bottoms is not for me.
Max,
I agree with Barb I think you have enough time to grow a Broccoli crop if you get your seeds in cups quickly.
Castle Dome is only 75 days to maturity from seed. Also, as Barb said once you cut the first head just keep watering and you may have enough time to get some second heads. It is called Cut and Come Again.
Good luck to all,
Larry

Last edited by Zone9b; January 27, 2018 at 08:38 PM.
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Old February 4, 2018   #3101
elight
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Question... With child #2 due any day now, I have officially lost all indoor spaces available for starting seeds now that the nursery is complete. I have been reduced to moving the setup to the dining room table (quite the eye sore). I will probably pot up into cups tonight.

How soon is too soon to harden off seedlings and keep them outdoors? The forecast is showing highs around 75-82 and lows around 60 for the next 10 days. Of course I could always bring them inside if rain is in the forecast.

Is there any downside to hardening off early and keeping the seedlings (potted up) outside, weather permitting, until ready to transplant in a few weeks?

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Old February 4, 2018   #3102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elight View Post
Question... With child #2 due any day now, I have officially lost all indoor spaces available for starting seeds now that the nursery is complete. I have been reduced to moving the setup to the dining room table (quite the eye sore). I will probably pot up into cups tonight.

How soon is too soon to harden off seedlings and keep them outdoors? The forecast is showing highs around 75-82 and lows around 60 for the next 10 days. Of course I could always bring them inside if rain is in the forecast.

Is there any downside to hardening off early and keeping the seedlings (potted up) outside, weather permitting, until ready to transplant in a few weeks?

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I think hardening off will be fine as long as no frost is due. Make sure they are in complete shade for 3 or 4 days. That's much mire light than indoors and will give them a great head start.
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Old February 4, 2018   #3103
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Except for Microgreens, I sow all seeds outside on my porch (not screened in). I only bring them inside at night if it is < 50. No hardening off problems.

Larry - My 2nd heads are almost ready to pick. I sowed more seeds after Max posted, nothing germinated yet. Any luck with your tomato plants? Did you sow any more?
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Old February 4, 2018   #3104
elight
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Thanks all. Don't know why I haven't been sowing outside all this time and saving the hassle of a grow light. Barb, does seed starting outdoors in the summer for the fall create any issues with disease due to the humidity?

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Old February 4, 2018   #3105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elight View Post
Thanks all. Don't know why I haven't been sowing outside all this time and saving the hassle of a grow light. Barb, does seed starting outdoors in the summer for the fall create any issues with disease due to the humidity?

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No disease issues. In the summer, I sow directly in the sun but after they are transplated, I do give them shade until they acclimate to their new environment.
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