Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: N. California
Posts: 701
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Can someone advise me on this? Turns out I have two brands of this, as well as “copper” fungicide, but can’t remember the last time I used it. I somehow remember losing an apricot tree, spraying a fungicide, but it was a very long time ago.
I’ve sacrificed almost all my tomato plants, unprecedented for me, especially in September, and I don’t want to lose my peppers too. The peppers look pretty good, but spots I would have let nature deal with are now concerning me. The peppers in question are poblanos, aji amarillo, scotch bonnet, rocatillo, fresno, Hungarian hot wax, and a manzano, although the manzano seems unaffected. Here’s a few pics. There are still ashes from past and present fires, and the spider mites they reveal. Pretty sure there are nutritional deficiencies (cal and mag), and leafminers as well, but I’m afraid I’m in denial about the need to take action against fungus and bacteria. |
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: PA - 5b
Posts: 92
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In my not-so-humble opinion chlorothalonil is worthless. Years ago I used a
bunch of it with essentially no beneficial results. You would be much better served by going back to your "copper" fungicide and by adding a spreader-sticker. But be careful. I have posted a reply in the thread "Can you store Copper-Soap solutions?" with detailed information on the use of copper fungicides but be sure you are starting with a 10% concentrate of copper octanoate. Addition of Revitalize could help although it may be late in the season for that. |
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: N. California
Posts: 701
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Thank you!
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northern Minnesota - zone 3
Posts: 3,231
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I'll have to differ. I normally use a Daconil product spray about three times during the fastest growing time for the plants in June and July in order to keep them healthy enough to get a good initial set of tomatoes, and keep enough leaf cover for tomato production into early September. Of course application will depend on your rainfall and humidity levels. This year I got lazy and did not spray. My plants were basically dead a couple of weeks ago, with only a few feeble green tips left. Many years ago when I tried to grow totally organic, I had two years in a row where my plants died off before I had any edible tomatoes. I am not willing to put in all the work and end up with nothing, so a few rounds of Daconil early in season lets me get a reasonable harvest. Have been using it for at least 15 years.
I see in your pictures above, you were asking mainly about peppers -- I have not had much trouble with pepper diseases, so I can't say that I have purposely had to use Daconil on them. It is a preventative leaf coating which prevents fungal attachment, not a cure.
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Dee ************** Last edited by ddsack; September 8, 2020 at 12:54 AM. Reason: adding |
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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I never had fungal issues with peppers, and I've grown in conditions where I literally didn't have a tomato crop some years due to fungi.
Those peppers seem to have the same problem as your tomatoes, so TSWV. |
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#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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The second picture looks like Calcium deficiency. That sometimes leads to BER, especially on large peppers like Bell's.
I've never had to deal with fungal issues on pepper plants except on rare occasions getting some Anthracnose on some fruit. This has been a strange year in a good way, Septoria on the tomato plants has been very light compared to what I've been used too.in the past. I only sprayed Daconil once and nothing else. Aphids and Spider Mites have been virtually non-existent. The worst problem I've had has been rodents chewing into low hanging fruit. Overall, no complaints with pests and diseases on tomatoes. |
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 199
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I have to differ as well. Without Daconil l can not grow a crop f tomatoes anymore. I spray about every 10 days from may until august if I don’t my plants are dead by early august.
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#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 963
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I have been growing tomatoes in Houston TX for 41 years. If I did not use Daconil 3 or 4 times a year I would have stopped trying to grow them.
MikeInCypress
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"Growing older, not up" |
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#9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: N. California
Posts: 701
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Thanks everybody! We seem to be having many environmental calamities, but the peppers are hanging in there! They are container grown, in sub-irrigation planters, and aside from the leaf changes seem in great shape, with lots of flowers and ample new growth. So so far I am addressing possible nutritional deficiencies, including CalMg in the reservoir, and a foliar application of fish emulsion and seaweed.
Wthe the exception of a brief sprinkle 3 weeks ago, zero rainfall in about 5 months, and 25 percent humidity at the most. I plan to try some Neem oil tommorow, if Armageddon doesn't happen first, but still hesitant about diagnosing this as fungal, and about the Daconil. I might give in shortly, but it is so dry here, I'm still juggling the risks and benefits. This was the sky at 8 AM this morning! Ashes falling like rain. Last edited by Shrinkrap; September 10, 2020 at 04:09 AM. |
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#10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northern Minnesota - zone 3
Posts: 3,231
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You might consider using Bill's bleach spray on them to kill off what is there right now. Long thread here http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...s+bleach+spray
You sure have a good attitude considering all that is going on around you! Living with the red glow is scary.
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Dee ************** |
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#11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: N. California
Posts: 701
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Thank you!
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#12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,916
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I use Daconile, Copper, Bill,s bleach mix , on tomatoes. No fungal issue with peppers.
I try to spray every two weeks or so, weather permitting.. As I understand it, all those all preventive. Once you get infestation it would be hard to control .
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! |
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#13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Madison, OH, zone 6
Posts: 468
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I normally alternate spraying my tomato plants with copper and daconil and sometimes mix the copper with mancozeb. Usually I stop the spraying about the first week of August.
Dan |
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