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#211 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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Went out today to prune suckers and.. couldn't help myself but make 2 more Frankenstein grafts - this time i didn't use the aquarium tubing. Last year The stems just grew right over the wire when i didn't remove the wire.
Starting to spot tomatoes in the Garden. Amazon Chocolate and Cowlicks Brandywine looks like few of the first to set. |
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#212 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NJ, zone 7
Posts: 3,162
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Time to count days until your first tomato! Good luck.
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Ella God comes along and says, "I think I'm going to create THE tomato!” ![]() |
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#213 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Merced, CA
Posts: 832
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Hi Delerium,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but...... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Seriously, that's really cool about the vertical grafts. Thanks for explaining it in some detail ![]() ![]() As I've said before, it really is amazing all the innovations you've made in the realm of tomato grafting in the past year. I'm curious to see how your experiments with the dwarfs work out. All the dwarf combo grafts that I'd started have succumbed to whatever as yet undiagnosed misfortune has been gradually "taking down" my plants ![]() Keep us posted with any new developments! Anne |
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#214 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 121
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Any benefits of grafting 3 plants using vertical grafting, if you don't use rootstock? Have you noticed it grows better then just planting the rooted suckers next to each other? Not sure if you have the answer, but just wondering if you notice any growth differences. The reason I ask is I use an earthtainer and was wondering if I make one of these grafts if it would preform better then planting 2-4 separate plants in the earthtainer. Sounds like a fun experiment. The more I think about it the more I want to try.
I created a 3 variety graft this year using the leaf graft method and that worked well so far. Thanks for any info, - Scott |
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#215 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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Any benefits of grafting 3 plants using vertical grafting, if you don't use rootstock?
Well the only real benefit is that its a shared root system (you could either plant 6 varieties in 1 earthtainer with 2 plants or plant 3 varieties using 1 plant in 1 earthtainer). Great for someone who doesn't have space to plant 3 varieties but can still get 3 varieties without the need for that extra space. I don't really know if the shared root system has any Disease tolerant benefits. Will it produce more? I don't see why not. Each vine should produce tomatoes just like any other plant. But this boils down to the same debate that comes up a lot when your growing tomatoes (to prune or not to prune). Single stem pruned plants will generally give you less yield but nice big tomatoes where as non pruned plants will yield more but size of tomatoes will vary. Now if you single stem each variety like you do your normal single stem plants I'd imagine you could get pretty decent production (and it would be like a non pruned plant *for yield* but pruned to single stem for each variety to keep the plant neat/organized) You would benefit by doing this with earthtainers for sure as you will have more varieties to plant without sacrificing planting space. I don't see why you shouldn't at least try a few grafts (with 3 varieties or 5 varieties *3 vertical grafts plus 2 petiole grafts* would be very easy to do). Basically my plan is to see which plants are producing the best in my garden with my current grafts and continue to combine those winning varieties for my Fall Crop or even carry it over for my winter garden like i did earlier this year. Last edited by Delerium; April 4, 2014 at 06:55 PM. |
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#216 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NJ, zone 7
Posts: 3,162
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Soon you would not need seeds, just use cuttings.
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#217 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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Well at least you can really extend your season and make backups really fast on good varieties. But Love growing from seeds and I am a shopaholic when it comes to buying seeds. I have 3 seed binders. As much as its tempting to continue clones
![]() Anyways, here is some pictures of Today's Harvest. Cabbages are coming in.. And i managed to take 2 Dwarf Snow suckers to root and grow some new clones to continue the grafting experiments ![]() |
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#218 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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All my grafted tomato plants are coming along great. Plenty of big blossoms with fruit set. Now the waiting begins... We are slowly shifting over from our Cole crops to Summer Veggies and I have started germinating seeds to start grafting Cukes, Luffa, Bitter Gourd, Watermelon & Cantaloupe.
Pic 1 and 2 - Tomato Grafts in Macro Bins - Day 46 (Fruit Set and Lots of Flowers) Pic 3 - Time to graft Summer Veggies Pic 4 - Regular Leaf / Potato Leaf Graft Pic 5 & 6 - More Tomato Grafts in Raised Beds.. Including a few Dwarf Grafts Pic 7 - Purple Cauliflower (first time growing these) Pic 8 - Seed Savers Exchange flower seeds from Heirloom Expo Pic 9 - More Mushrooms showing up again (Agricus Bisporus) Pic 10 - More Oysters (The flushes are getting smaller probably substrate is now exhausted) |
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#219 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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Pic 11 & 12 - Cabbages - turned out pretty good.
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#220 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: rienzi, ms
Posts: 470
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are the cabbage leaves edible? those that aren't in a head?
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#221 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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#222 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: rienzi, ms
Posts: 470
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i was eying them for either fried cabbage or stuffed cabbage. do they do well in the heat? if not i probably shouldn't waste my time outdoors with them it's gonna get real hot pretty soon sorry for the tangent!
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#223 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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Wow.. did we pull a Giant Beet. Weighed at 3 lbs +. Kinda Cool. First time for everything.
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#224 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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Well you should plant your cabbage when temps are cooler probably in the 40-50F range. We are just starting to hit 80's which is a bit to hot for cabbages. So whatever the DTM is.. plan for temps when it will head around the 70F range. I still have a Giant Purple Cabbage that's just started heading so i am keeping my fingers crossed hoping that it won't bolt on me.
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#225 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NJ, zone 7
Posts: 3,162
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Looking good. Did you try okra? I grew few last year. If picked early, you can just eat it raw. It never made to my kitchen.
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