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#211 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I did that with up to three different scions on one plant but usually when I did three one of them would fail so I ended up with two. Since I am strictly a single stem grower after the success of the last two years I don't think I'll be doing that any more but it was fun to show the plants off in the garden. The coolest looking one had a two potato leaf plants one red and one gold and one regular leaf black tomato. That was one wierd looking plant. I should have also done one with a wispy leafed heart mixed with two others but I quit doing that kind of grafting before I got around to it. Bill |
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#212 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Yeah I mainly just want one to show off myself, would be good attention for us and really cool just to have in the garden. All my garden buddies would be so jelly
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#213 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Siena-Monteriggioni, Italy
Posts: 213
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![]() ![]() I think I'm actually going to try side grafting as I’m going to try cleft drafting too. This last one seems even harder but sounds like fun too. Overall, top grafting seems to be the easiest technique for a beginner like me. I also have some concerns about the temperature ![]() I’m also not sure I understand what you and other mean when you said that the game changer was removing most of the roots on the rootstock before making the graft. How do you remove the roots? |
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#214 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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To remove the roots you just pull the root stock out of whatever medium it is growing in and grab the roots and pull most of them off just before you do the actual cut for the two stems you are joining. I lay the two stems on top of each other or side by side so that the stem size is at a place that matches in size then make a quick cut down through both stems at approximately a forty five degree angle. Make sure you know which top is the scion and which is the root stock before putting them together. It is easy to tell which is the root stock bottom to be grafted too because it has the small root ball left on it after pinching off most of the original root ball and the scion bottom is already cut off with a cut end. The problem will arise if you aren't careful with the two tops when both are regular leaf. I have in the past just grafted the top right back on the root stock base before only a few months later to find out the mistake. ![]() ![]() Once you have made the cuts you just join the two parts together with a silicon grafting clip or whatever type of clip you want to use then put it in the moist cup of granular DE that has been charged with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Once you have it stable you put it in the healing chamber immediately. Bill |
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#215 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 54
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Thanks, Fritz!
![]() Cheers, Adam Last edited by txtstorm; February 21, 2017 at 09:34 AM. |
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#216 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,917
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Just an update and an observation on my trial seeds. I had 100% germination on all in 6 days, which is typical in my conditions. All were immediately moved to the basement under lights. The RST-04-106-T seedlings are keeping pace with the two scion varieties. Hopefully they continue to do so until grafting time. The DRO141TX seedlings are lagging well behind. They are healthy, but growing at a snail's pace compared to everything else. I did drop the first round of scion seeds for my 2017 varieties on Sunday and I was going to wait the recommended week to ten days to start rootstock, but I'm now planning to drop the DRO rootstock seeds tonight based on what I'm seeing. I'm thinking a seven day lag time for the RST, but I'll make that call after I see what they've done by Sunday. Has anyone else started DRO seeds yet? |
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#217 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() Cheers, Shaun. |
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#218 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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To update: 2 of my previous Big Beef grafts got really wilted from being left on the table for to long after grafting. I put the in the chamber, misted, and last night they had improved but still wilted. Rest are looking great and I removed 4 more grafts to lights last night.
I did a few more grafts last night with really small seedlings. I have noticed the smaller grafts seem to heal much faster and sometimes never even wilt. I grafted a JD's Special C-tex that barely had it first true leaves 3 days ago and I swear it looks healed already. I have also found that soaking all of the scions for a few minutes really helps as Delerium/Bill suggested. I got in a hurry and didn't do it with a few and they are the ones struggling. Grafting is addicting and I am kinda ticked I didn't order more rootstock seed now. |
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#219 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 54
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I think I missed the soaking part. Does that mean soaking the scion with the roots still attached (soaking the roots) or soaking the cut scion before grafting it to the rootstock? Cheers
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#220 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Either way, I usually cut thee roots off so I don't get confused.
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#221 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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My rootstock tops should be ready to reuse soon.
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#222 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Ok I did some more grafts. So far none have died. I tried a double variety graft as well. My tubing was to big and my wire to stiff
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#223 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Williamsburg VA Zone 7b
Posts: 1,110
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I started my first RST rootstock seeds in potting soil. I started the next group of RST seeds in DE about a week later.
I've found that the RST rootstock germinates in DE in less than half the time. Huh. Does the small DE make better contact with the seeds increasing the amount of heat and water? Easier for the emerging seedling to push out and grow? I don't know but I'm very impressed with germinating in DE. Jeff |
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#224 | |
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Posts: n/a
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My DRO161TX seeds have arrived. They're in a sealed foil packet so I don't want to open them until I need them as I'd like to extend shelf-life as long as possible (I have enough to last me 5 years or more). However on the packet it says "100 DRO141TX seeds, pellets." and when I feel through the packet they feel like little balls about half the size of a match head. Hasw anyone else had seeds in this form? Is it normal? Do I plant them just as I would 'bare' seeds or do I need to pre-soak them or something? Cheers, Shaun. |
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#225 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Bill |
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