General information and discussion about cultivating beans, peas, peanuts, clover and vetch.
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#16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,968
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I start "some" beans early, usually about 50 plants of very early varieties, white seeded varieties, and the tastiest (to me) varieties. The rest can wait.
I start bush types about 3 weeks before transplant, pole types about 2 1/2 weeks early. I use 16 to 20 ounce plastic drink cups, a couple of small slits at the bottom near the edge, filled with garden soil to about 3/4 " from the top. Germination (about 5-7 days) is indoors, unless it is warmer outside during the day. 25 cups can fit into a no-spill???!!! wire rack. So, it's two trips a day ( I really should not say trips), outside, then in, for the night. Since indoor germination can be a week earlier than with outdoor germination, and outdoor may mean having to plant again (loosing another week or two), I can gain 3 to 4, or more, weeks. Gary |
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#17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: MA 6a/b
Posts: 352
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Thanks for all the responses
Planning to start the seeds (8 of each for actually planting 4 of each) in 2nd week of May to plant out at end of May or early June. I have limited space, so I cannot produce enough by planting more. So I have to try and extend the season if possible |
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#18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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With pole beans I space about 6 inches apart, but plant 3 inches then thin. I grow mine off of parachute cord strung on a wire held by conduit poles. Beans seem super easy to germinate. I have no desire to start early. Getting a crop a couple weeks early doesn't matter to me, I'm so busy with other crops, and by June harvesting starts and doesn't end till November. I actually do not like germinating indoors, messy, dirt everywhere, spilled water etc. No thanks. I've been germinating seeds indoors since February, I'm done with it!
I used 3/4 inch conduit, but they really didn't hold, so I'm replacing with 1/2 inch and cementing poles in. I have 600 pound of cement left over from a chimney job, the company just left the cement! OK, I found a use for some anyway! Here it is, as you can see, the poles were not really strong enough. 1/2 inch should work well. ![]() Last edited by drew51; April 13, 2015 at 07:32 PM. |
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#19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
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This is my first bean experience too. I have a whopping grab bag from Tormato and I bought a packet of bush soybeans to try. My grow area will be a 4X8 raised bed with new topsoil and sand. How would I arrange rows or rephrasing - how do I make use of the center? Should the rows be the shorter or longer dimension. The bed is 18 inches high.Add a 6 foot pole bean, that will be a stretch.
-Lisa |
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#20 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: California Central Valley
Posts: 2,542
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#21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: MA 6a/b
Posts: 352
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I plan to drop a twine from top for each bean plant and then use the tomato clips to hold the bean plant to the string. That works great for tomatoes. Hoping that it will work for beans too.
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#22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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All the beans in my above photo are on parachute cord, no poles except on the ends. So yes they grab them well.
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#23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,968
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No need for clips to hold the vine to the twine, for the vines will "twine" around the twine. Bean vines are very tacky at their growth tips, and will cling to the twine easily. Sometimes the vine needs a little help getting started in its attachment to the twine. All vines will circle the twine in the same direction (counterclockwise when looking downward), so don't try to make them circle in the other direction.
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#24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
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Attempting to answer my own question, one row of pole beans in a 4 X 8 raised bed, and the rest bush? I'll be using a trellis akin to a cattle panel.
- Lisa |
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#25 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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As Gary says, you don't need clips to hold them to the twine. What I'm wondering is are you planning to attach the twine to something at the bottom? I'm not sure if a bean will twine itself up the twine or simply push the twine up as it grows if it's not attached. Gary??? |
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#26 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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#27 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: MA 6a/b
Posts: 352
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Also do beans start suckers like tomato? or cukes? or is it one stalk per seed? |
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#28 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Worth |
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#29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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I use garden staples to hold twine down, well cord in my case. I like to re-use them so I use cord that does not degrade very fast.
I'm trying some new pole beans this year SWISS LANDFRAUEN Some from Italy Meraviglia di Venezia Stortino di Trento Trionfo Violetto Last edited by drew51; April 16, 2015 at 09:51 AM. |
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#30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,968
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