Fertilizers for EarthTainers

[schill93]

Originally Posted by KC.Sun

You can go to the EB site and they will have recommendations on what types of fertilizer to use. So far, I have been using liquid fertilizer for my EB and it seems to work well. I'm using fish emulsion and kelp fertilizers. I use a combination of liquid fertilizers. Some I feed down the tube and some I fertilize from the top, depending on fertilizer.

I chose this option because I grow organic and could not find an option for organic granular fertilizer when I setup my boxes.

I do fertilize more often about every 4-5 days using a weakened solution.

I've heard you can't feed fish emulsion and kelp fertilizer directly down the tube because it will cause sludge buildup.

Earthbox also has a forum you can get some ideas on. But I have heard that they filter their forum so that anything that may not be beneficial to them in terms of sales, are not posted.

Overall, you can forego the fertilizer strip but you will have to watch and fertilize using a liquid solution. One thing to be aware of for your container is to make sure your potting soil is wet or the liquid in your containers reservoir will not wick up.

You might want to be careful if you are using a synthetic fertilizer when fertilizing more often as it might burn the plant.

I will second that statement. Any mention of a negative aspect or another competing product and you may be met with some hostility. It's a shame.

[elight]

Originally Posted by schill93

I will second that statement. Any mention of a negative aspect or another competing product and you may be met with some hostility. It's a shame.

That would explain why there's not as much conversation about the topic there as I would have expected.

I found Vigoro (Home Depot's house brand) 12-5-7 so I'm going to try that in one 'tainer. I think I have enough TT for the second container, and I have some Jobe's 4-4-4 for the third. All are getting brand new media, Bio-Tone and Azomite (probably worthless but I have it so might as well use it). Should be interesting.

[Ed of Somis]

In Particular...I am paying attention to Marsha's posts, and those who live in Ca or Fla. I am a EB newbie, and this year my EB was doing great for the first 2-3 months. Then it pooped out. (not diseased). So, I have been putting some MG down the tube for 3 weeks, and it is perking up. Of course I am not sure...but I think those of us who have long growing seasons have an extra challenge to keep those maters (heavy feeders) going.

[schill93]

Originally Posted by Ed of Somis

In Particular...I am paying attention to Marsha's posts, and those who live in Ca or Fla. I am a EB newbie, and this year my EB was doing great for the first 2-3 months. Then it pooped out. (not diseased). So, I have been putting some MG down the tube for 3 weeks, and it is perking up. Of course I am not sure...but I think those of us who have long growing seasons have an extra challenge to keep those maters (heavy feeders) going.

Ed I am new to Earthboxes as well, but it is my understanding from all that I have read that the two or three cups of fertilizer that you add towards the top when you plant out your box is not meant to last a long season. In fact 3 or 4 months seems to be what most say is maximum before they become depleted. However, most people start to supplement their boxes weekly anyway with a dose of Calcium Nitrate ) one teaspoon per gallon a week down the tube along with some magnesium (Epson Salt) as soon as the first fruits set (especially tomatoes) as they require a lot more energy at that time. Miracle Grow is fine, but it lacks the calcium they need so my thinking that both is needed at this time, but check with the others who have Earthboxes how they handle their fertilizer.

In Florida, where you have an extended season, you definitely are going to have to either add additional granules or stakes without disturbing the roots and supplement with calcium nitrate, or start adding weekly liquid fertilizer like miracle grow at a half dose along with some calcium and magnesium. On the Earthbox forum, they refer to the calcium nitrate as "the snack"
Looking at Ginger's post on feeding, she says she starts with three cups of Tomato Tone due to long season and then supplements with calcium nitrate weekly as soon as blossoms form. You can PM her for details. She lives in Plantation which is southern Florida.

[Imthechuck]

Last year I ended up just digging some of the old used fertilizer out and put a cup of new! Eggplants lasted 9 months

[AKmark]

Schill, if you want to be accurate with fertilizer, go buy a meter that reads PPM, EC, and of course PH. Many good fertilizers have reference numbers on the bag concerning mixes and strength, and these are the methods they use in regards to measuring fertilizers. You will guess no more.

[Ricky Shaw]

AKmark,

Totally new to the container stuff, but was pleased to see that you use a fertilizer that I'm familiar with, Hydro-Gardens 4-18-38.

I get the 5lb size for $22 and it makes 1000 gal. Proper corresponding amounts of calcium nitrate($15) and mag sulfate run($11) bring this solution to about 5 cents per gallon total cost.

And I'm assuming fertilizer treatment values are somewhat linear, that you'd use half as much of a 60% active like this, than a 5-15-10 or 10-10-10 product.

I've had excellent results using this product from bloom through August, applied every 10-14 days at about 1 gal per 10sq ft in a raised bed and in-ground garden for toms, zuke, cuke, squash, and pumpkins.

I have no idea how I'm going to use it for EB's and grow bags, but hope to find out.

[AKmark]

Ricky- HG fertilizer should be used every watering in containers that are not dirt. I run mine at 1500-1600 ppm, but have found I need to spruce up the fertilizer amount that is recommended to reach it. We have ran as high as 1900ppm, and the plants looked great. If your in doubt, sign up at HG and send in a leaf sample every month for analysis.

[Ricky Shaw]

Mark, thank you for your reply.

I'm on-board with the soil-less media and will go with either the Pro-Mix BX or MX for both the EB's (3) and 15gal fabric grow bags (12).

On a continuous fertilizer feed, are you skipping the fertilizer strip and mag sulfate to the EB's and pots at the start?

And do you have a recommendation on a meter for testing ppm and PH?

I mix ferts in a 30gal drum now but have easy availability to clean 275gal totes like those I've seen in some of your pics. This is very doable so far, I'm stoked!

[AKmark]

These meters are good. Injectors are best. If you use just tanks and a pump, mix your fert and magnesium in one, Calcium Nitrate in another, plumb them together and your fert is mixed inline.If they are both elevated the same, they will also empty together, even though your pump pulls from one.
I can see my ppm is a little low, after the last batch was mixed, and I like my ph at this stage to be at 6.3, so we will drop that too. Water temp is 63-64
The plants are 8 months old.

[Ricky Shaw]

Not opposed to pumps, but the part of the yard where the tanks would need to be has no power and I would have to run an extension cord every time.

My garden is at my home and zoning wouldn't permit building a shed w/power, so I'm going to have to think about this. The area where I need to put the tanks is up slope and was hoping to use gravity somehow.

I can even hand water if need be for 12 grow bags and a few EB's, I had hoped somehow to incorporate that HG 4-18-38 into the my container growing too.

You have a very nice operation and beautiful specimens with gorgeous fruit. I appreciate your help and have already learned a lot from your posts in particular.

[Ricky Shaw]

Sunny here this morning.

Here's the patch I'm working with, 10x42, with a 14 inch slope from back fence line to where I'm standing. I'm gung-ho to rip out the raised beds, and put in two 2' x32' low run racks, spread 4' apart.

Then, elevate a tank at the back of the property to just below fence line and run a manual drip feed down the racks. The fertilizer thru the drip tank was an afterthought, and probably not a good one.

My main reason for wanting to stage a water source is to avoid watering directly from the hose. The water is very cold in the Spring and I like the idea of not shocking the plants, we have tough Springs conditions here as it is.

Mark, How many 10gal grow bags from a 3.8cf bag of HP?

Thanks

[Barb_FL]

Ricky - your plants look great.

I have a question re: 4-18-38 fertilizer. I've followed AKMark's great tomato success; so was going to try using the same fertilizer for a limited # of plants.

I bought the 4-18-38 and Calcium Nitrate from MorganCountySeeds.com and the directions that came with the packets, said to alternate using them. One week the 4-18-38, the next week Calcium Nitrate. It never said anything about Epsom salts.
Also, applying like this was when the plants were mature and fruiting. Prior to that it was some other Peters, etc water soluble fertilizer.

Is the alternating usage a MorganCountySeed thing? Should I do this or would results be better combining them - 5 gallon bucket.

Also, on the amount used, I've read 12 grams each of the 4-18-38 and CN and 6 grams ES for 5 gallons of water. Is this the % that you are both using for the buckets?

Thanks for any info:


Warning - for anyone else reading this: prior to my MorganCountySeed purchase, I bought a combined mix from Amazon (a different vendor) which contained all 3 ingredients. Unfortunately, the stuff doesn't mix well at all.

[Ricky Shaw]

Hi Barb, I have all raised beds at this point. I mix it per instruction and apply it with a watering can at a gallon per 10 sq ft of soil, from bloom thru August, about every 2 weeks.

I make it in small batches 25 gals and use it all up that day, mixing all three components.

Here's the full cut sheet and instructions on Hydo-Gardens 4-18-38, I'd bet this is where it all come from anyway. https://hydro-gardens.com/product/tomato-formula-5lbs-box-4-18-38x5/

[Ricky Shaw]

And of course I amend over the Winter with a 10-10-10 and add in manure compost sometimes.

It was thinking about all this, and the footprint I leave, that set me on this container/grow bag idea. I'm working on keeping productivity and being more contained with run-off chemicals. I'm seeing I can do that with containers.

* My fertilizer program is NOT a suggestion to anyone, it works for what I have here.