Hey Fellow Floridians - Year 2

[Zone9b]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ginger2778 View Post
"What do you innoculate them with? I only had a few peas so I used Mykos which I already had on hand but was never sure if that was ok for them. Some are doing great and others are wilting and dying."
Ginny
The inoculant that I use is said to be for peas, beans, vetch and more. inoculated Legumes are said be more productive. The information sheet for the one I am using reads: "Inoculants are commercially prepared Rhizobia bacteria that dramatically increase the ability of legumes to convert atmospheric nitrogen to ammonia nitrogen."
It is easy to see if the legume plant has made use of the inoculant by pulling the plant and examining the roots. The roots should be covered with nitrogen bumps. You don't need much of the inoculant, one package goes a long way. The inoculate does have an expiration date, so one should ask about it or you may buy inoculant that technically expires shortly, e.g. the end of 2015. I have found one of the signs that expiration is close is that the product will have a very attractive price.
Larry

[kayrobbins]

We are breaking a record today with the temperature getting up to 89. It was nice last week that the heat seems really hard to take. My plants are not happy with the heat.

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by kayrobbins

We are breaking a record today with the temperature getting up to 89. It was nice last week that the heat seems really hard to take. My plants are not happy with the heat.

Yes! There's a high pressure zone in the Atlantic, not letting any of the cold fronts through. Frustrating me!

[Zone9b]

Originally Posted by kayrobbins

We are breaking a record today with the temperature getting up to 89. It was nice last week that the heat seems really hard to take. My plants are not happy with the heat.

Warm here also at 88. The record is 92. The average low in Orlando for Nov 2 is 62. The nearest forecast morning low of 69 is Nov 10th
Larry

[Barb_FL]

RE: weather.com hourly, it projects up through Weds, and the lowest until then is 77. But if I do the 10 day, I will see a low of 74 for tonight, 75 tomorrow, etc. The 10 day forecast doesn't project getting under 70 until November 13th.

No wonder fruit set is so slow. At least all the 'late' sowing has a chance to catch up.

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by Barb_FL

RE: weather.com hourly, it projects up through Weds, and the lowest until then is 77. But if I do the 10 day, I will see a low of 74 for tonight, 75 tomorrow, etc. The 10 day forecast doesn't project getting under 70 until November 13th.

No wonder fruit set is so slow. At least all the 'late' sowing has a chance to catch up.

I have been dying to transplant my lettuce,kale,broccoli to their final homes, but I don't dare. Too hot. I dont want them to bolt.

[Zone9b]

Originally Posted by Zone9b

Quote:
Originally Posted by ginger2778 View Post
"What do you innoculate them with? I only had a few peas so I used Mykos which I already had on hand but was never sure if that was ok for them. Some are doing great and others are wilting and dying."
Ginny
The inoculant that I use is said to be for peas, beans, vetch and more. inoculated Legumes are said be more productive. The information sheet for the one I am using reads: "Inoculants are commercially prepared Rhizobia bacteria that dramatically increase the ability of legumes to convert atmospheric nitrogen to ammonia nitrogen."
It is easy to see if the legume plant has made use of the inoculant by pulling the plant and examining the roots. The roots should be covered with nitrogen bumps. You don't need much of the inoculant, one package goes a long way. The inoculate does have an expiration date, so one should ask about it or you may buy inoculant that technically expires shortly, e.g. the end of 2015. I have found one of the signs that expiration is close is that the product will have a very attractive price.
Larry

Tonight I am having a humble dinner of Crow. Went to Extension Agency Office today with bags of bean leaves, bean plants and bean pods. Long story short need fungicide and need insecticide but that's not all. A already assumed that part of the Provider's problem was nematodes because when I pulled them they had almost no roots. But the roots on the Jades looked great lots of them and nitrogen nodules. So I thought. The big dog at the agency looked at my Jade II plant including roots and he said "it has a nematode issue" and I exclaimed "Aren't those Nitrogen Nodules!" and his response was "No, those bumps are a result of nematodes". He sunk my Battleship.
So tonight I just finished my dinner of crow and rusty snap beans.
Larry

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by Zone9b

Tonight I am having a humble dinner of Crow. Went to Extension Agency Office today with bags of bean leaves, bean plants and bean pods. Long story short need fungicide and need insecticide but that's not all. A already assumed that part of the Provider's problem was nematodes because when I pulled them they had almost no roots. But the roots on the Jades looked great lots of them and nitrogen nodules. So I thought. The big dog at the agency looked at my Jade II plant including roots and he said "it has a nematode issue" and I exclaimed "Aren't those Nitrogen Nodules!" and his response was "No, those bumps are a result of nematodes". He sunk my Battleship.
So tonight I just finished my dinner of crow and rusty snap beans.
Larry

I gave up. I just grow in earthboxes, and pots that I can put on top of landscape fabric. Florida is infested with nematodes. Hate them.

[Fiishergurl]

Oh Larry... so bummed about the diagnosis. Is there anything you can grow in those beds that is not bothered by nematodes?

Ginny

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[Fiishergurl]

I've been trying a psuedo continuous feed plan and it seems to be working... so far anyways.

No fert strip. Top feed and top water plus a small water reservoir (maybe half gallon).



This plant is exploding with blooms and tomatoes. The color is off in the photi due to the flash. I leave before daylight. I have pruned for airflow or it would be much thicker.




It has at least 12 clusters with 12-15 blooming flowers and tomatoes already and the second tier of clusters is just forming.

Do the math and that is a lot of tomatoes already forming. The blossoms so far are not dropping. I buzz them 2 to 3 times a day.

This weekend I'm going to add cross bars for better support. This is a Cherokee Purple plant.

I'm crossing my fingers that it keeps growing well.

Ginny

[Zone9b]

Originally Posted by Fiishergurl

Oh Larry... so bummed about the diagnosis. Is there anything you can grow in those beds that is not bothered by nematodes?
Ginny
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Good point. I could seed a few more trays of Broccoli and try to get them in the bed at the end of Dec. No, this wouldn't work because this would run into contention with beans I want to plant in these beds early in the Spring, i.e. February.
I could throw some Kale seeds in but I already have more Kale planted then I need. Maybe it is better to let the beds set a bit. I'll probably be eating Kale and Broccoli 24/7. I will need a bean break. Well there is always Costco Organic frozen green beans. They don't taste as good as my Jade II or Fortex Cross beans but they're not too bad actually.
Thanks, Larry

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by Zone9b

Good point. I could seed a few more trays of Broccoli and try to get them in the bed at the end of Dec. No, this wouldn't work because this would run into contention with beans I want to plant in these beds early in the Spring, i.e. February.
I could throw some Kale seeds in but I already have more Kale planted then I need. Maybe it is better to let the beds set a bit. I'll probably be eating Kale and Broccoli 24/7. I will need a bean break. Well there is always Costco Organic frozen green beans. They don't taste as good as my Jade II or Fortex Cross beans but they're not too bad actually.
Thanks, Larry

Larry, if you are going to let it sit, then why not cover the area with clear plastic and let it solarize. It will kill the nematodes, and anything else. They'll come back but will be 4 or so months.

[kurt]

Good recommendation from Ginger.Now is the time to pull/clean/nuke out all of the material that is harboring all of your malady's.Including any kind of fibrous(wood handles,wood stakes,raised bed wood insides/bottom etc.I would pull all roots that have the nodes of parasitic nemos.Pull all above ground soil bag and solarize in clear bags or go fresh.But do solarize all below ground existing earth knowing that roots will travel up to 12/18 inches deep and nemos according to literature will move three feet per season(horizontally)also.All tools and clothing will harbor fungal spores.While ground is bare if you feel safe enough and are not close to a water runoff condition methyl bromide will eradicate the parasitic nemos with some good soil drenching.Might be some work but thats what our local farmers do here in the fields in S Florida.Steam soil sterilization is done also but very expensive.I have seen some greenhouses here do a complete nuclear cleansing of all equipment,surfaces including tractors,material handling tools etc.Then leave fields fallow for a whole season,test.reamend soils, test again.But with some diligence it can be done.I gave up a long time ago and grow in containers for that reason.

[Zone9b]

Originally Posted by kurt

Good recommendation from Ginger.Now is the time to pull/clean/nuke out all of the material that is harboring all of your malady's.Including any kind of fibrous(wood handles,wood stakes,raised bed wood insides/bottom etc.I would pull all roots that have the nodes of parasitic nemos.Pull all above ground soil bag and solarize in clear bags or go fresh.But do solarize all below ground existing earth knowing that roots will travel up to 12/18 inches deep and nemos according to literature will move three feet per season(horizontally)also.All tools and clothing will harbor fungal spores.While ground is bare if you feel safe enough and are not close to a water runoff condition methyl bromide will eradicate the parasitic nemos with some good soil drenching.Might be some work but thats what our local farmers do here in the fields in S Florida.Steam soil sterilization is done also but very expensive.I have seen some greenhouses here do a complete nuclear cleansing of all equipment,surfaces including tractors,material handling tools etc.Then leave fields fallow for a whole season,test.reamend soils, test again.But with some diligence it can be done.I gave up a long time ago and grow in containers for that reason.

Thanks for your replys
Wow! That sounds like a lot of work. If you would like, please take a look at
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...fall+bean+crop
titled: Worst Fall Bean Crop Ever
I only am having, at this time, a problem with my fall beans. Tomatoes, Kale, Broccoli, Peppers are all doing fine. It is interesting to see non nematode resistant Provider beans roots to appear to be totally decimated by nematodes while Jade II supposedly non nematode resistant roots to be in significantly better but not fine condition. I'm guessing that the Jade IIs have at least some degree of resistance. Another thing I find interesting is non nematode resistant tomatoes such as GGWT and PBTD also growing in Compost filled Raised Beds seem to be doing well. The GGWT vines are around 7' high at this time and still aggressively growing.
If you know of a green bean or pole bean variety which appears to be nematode resistant in the fall in Florida, please let me know. UofF lists a few beans that are nematode resistant at least in the spring. But they indicate that it is not known whether these varieties are resistant in the high soil temperatures associated with our Fall season. I like the looks of the disease resistance of the Boone Green bean but there is no indication that it is nematode resistant.
When I top off my RBs in before spring planting I will add Kelp meal and maybe some Sphagnum moss. Also I will be ready to spray beans with a fungicide if necessary and also take some action again insects. Also I may switch beans to a different RB and put Broccoli in the Bean RB. However, the fall may be more challenging. I may try a couple of potential nematode resistant bean varieties next fall. Oh, and yes if I get a window of opportunity next July August I will solarize the RBs that my beans go in.
Thanks, Larry

[kurt]

From what I understand the parasitic nemos(AKA eelworms)will travel in the soil to another food source up to three feet in a season.BOLO for them migrating to another food source.My regimen is to eliminate all the probabilities of a recurrence of a malady.I hate when the literature reads"resistance","control".Plenty of good cultural gardening practices and remedy's that can eliminate the headaches of pulling something to eat out of the ground.It just might take some time and patience getting there.Good Luck.