Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (w/ Pix)

[lakeshorenc]

Thought I'd post about my experience last year with this problem. I had a beautiful tomato garden with 30+ plants, mostly heirlooms. They got to be 5 to 6 feet tall and loaded with tomatoes. Then I started noticing the spots, yellow leaves then the wilting on about 3 or 4 plants, so I pulled them. I then decided to start spraying an insecticide once a week. I also removed the bottom leaves. This seemed to help slow the spread to the others but the TSWV still eventually progressed to most of the them (except my Sweet 100). I decided to not pull what I had left and I actually ended up with an OK season. Not the one of my day dreams but we had tomatoes until late August. I found that on some plants only 1/4 to 1/2 of the plant would wilt and the tomatoes continued to grow and turn color. I didn't get to much fruit damage, only on some of the fruit and late in the season. I like the tin foil idea so I'll give that a try and I like the idea of cutting off the lower leaves, the soaker hose, and mulch, mulch, mulch. Just thought I'd share this. Theresa

[MsCowpea]

Lakeshorenc,

If you are going to spray repeatedly consider using Spinosad (microbial insecticide). It is specifically recommended against thrips.

I can only find the pepper TSWV reference link but they do recommend Spinosad.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN401

Even though researchers are not that impressed with spraying to reduce TSWV , I , too, think it is worth trying. I think you also have to spray host weeds, other plants, etc.
It really is an insiduous disease--I am battling it right now but I always seem to get it on tall (5 feet plus) robust plants so I still get tomatoes without all those ugly spots you see in the picture. And the tomato Juliet (poor maligned Juliet by most tomato aficionados) has it and doesn't seem to mind a bit nor is it doing any devastating damage to the plant.


From the article:
"The high reproductive capacity of thrips is a severe problem when attemping to suppress their populations with the use of insecticides. Broad-spectrum insecticides (e.g. Danitol) are highly toxic to minute pirate bugs, and populations of thrips in the spring outstrip the toxic effects of weekly application of the insecticides ( Figure 3 ). Insecticides can be selected that conserve populations of the minute pirate bug. Most lepidopterous pests can be controlled by spinosad (marketed as Spintor) and Bt-products (marketed under various trade names) that are not toxic to many natural enemies. Spintor is toxic to many species of thrips and is a good product that enhances the benefits of the predator by causing more rapid extinction of thrips ( Figure 3 )."

[tlcmd]

Spent the winter researching methods to deter thrips and finding ways to prevent TSWV. Thrips are not good flyers and rarely go more than 30 feet fro where they are hatched. They are carried by animals, wind, and equipment. Reflective measures camouflage the plants in your garden from them. The at least 30 feet around the garden needs to be well mowed and pruned. The garden obfiously needs to be well weeded. thrips are worst in the late summer. (There's also a brief thrip time in May-June, but it's not as bad). I'm in zone 7 (the northern piedmont, North Carolina)

TSWV varieties usually do well. I've found only one indeterminate variety, Bolseno (from Johnny's Seeds).

This year, in addition to some of the methods described above and below, I'm planning to "circle the wagons" with resistant varieties planted on the perimeter to passively intercept any windblown thrips.

The basic information is derivded from one source, but over the past several weeks I've attempted to verify the information about each item and removed any which were really questionable. unfortunately, much of this information about companion plants is not well documented (opinion, heresay, etc).

I've placed an '*' by the companion plants I plan to use. I also concentrated on what plant in my small garden (50 x 30): Tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, okra, pole beans, asparagas, & bell peppers. I'm also going to use reflective measures and at least 2 of the beneficial insects, mites, and organisms described. There are mixed reviews on dill, but I'm planning to use it as it attracts beneficial insects. I'm also planning to plant garlic which is used in green houses to deter thrips.

Other recommendations, comments and suggestions appreciated.

*Lady Bugs are the most widely used and best known form of biological pest control. Famous for their control of aphids, Lady Bugs will also consume large numbers of whitefly, mealybugs, scales, mites and many other soft bodied insects as well as bollworm, broccoli worm, cabbage moth and tomato hornworm. Lady Bugs will consume up to 1,000 aphids in it's lifetime in both their larvae and adult stages and work well in garden and greenhouse settings.


Lady Beetles (Ladybugs)
(Hippodamia convergens)


Ladybug Beetle The most common of all beneficial insects, these voracious predators feed on aphids, adelgids, chinch bugs, asparagus beetle larvae, thrips, alfalfa weevils, bean thrips, grape root worms, Colorado potato beetle larvae, whitefly, and mites, as well as many other soft-bodied insects and eggs. And they are cost-effective, too.


Ladybugs are shipped to you in the adult stage. Each adult consumes about 5,000 aphids. Within 8 to 10 days of release each female ladybug lays 10 to 50 eggs daily on the underside of leaves. Eggs are usually deposited near prey such as aphids, often in small clusters in protected sites. Larvae grow from about 1 mm to 5 to 6 mm in length and may wander up to 40 feet in search of prey. Ladybug Larvae


In 2 to 5 days the larvae emerge as dark alligator-like flightless creatures with orange spots. The larvae eat 50 to 60 aphids per day. After 21 days the larva attaches itself by the abdomen to a leaf or other surface to pupate and adults emerge in 2 to 8 days depending on the temperature, completing the cycle. Under ideal conditions (temperature 61°F to 82°F; ladybugs won't fly when 55°F or lower) several generations may be produced.




@Amblyseius cucumeris
• Taxonomy: Acarina: Phytoseiidae
• Distribution: Europe, Australia, North America,
Asia, ...
• Target pest: Frankliniella occidentalis (Western
flower thrips), Thrips tabaci (The onion thrips),
Tarsonemus pallidus (Cyclamen mite),
Polyphagotarsonemus latus (Broad mite), .
• Development stages: Egg – larva – protonymph –
deutonymph – adult
• Identification: Amblyseius cucumeris is a
transparent pale brown predatory mite of about 0.5
mm (1/50 in) long. Larvae, nymphs and adults are droplet shaped. The eggs are oval and transparent
white and are deposited on hairs on the underside of leaves.
• Mode of action: The nymphs and adults of Amblyseius cucumeris feed on young thrips larvae (mainly
1st instar).




*(?) Hypoaspis miles


Hypoaspis miles This tiny (0.5 mm) light-brown mite naturally inhabits the top 1/2" layer of soil where fungus gnats, as well as springtails and thrips pupae dwell. The female Hypoaspis mites lay their eggs in the soil, which hatch in 1-2 days, and the nymphs and adults feed on the soil-dwelling pests. Populations of Hypoaspis include both sexes, but the males are much smaller and rarely seen.


Each Hypoaspis mite will consume 1-5 prey or eggs per day. They survive by feeding on algae and/or plant debris when insects aren't available. Their entire life cycle is 7-11 days.


Hypoaspis are used primarily for control of fungus gnat larvae, but they also feed on western flower thrips pupae.


Hypoaspis can also be effective at ridding pet tarantulas, lizards and snakes of pest mites.


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________


Plants to Plant with Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Squash


*1)BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue.


2) BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers.


*3) BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you have planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are edible.


4) CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils. We have found it repels mice quite well:


5) CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.


6) CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly


7) CHRYSANTHEMUMS: (Painted Daisy) C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles.


8) CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. A great duet is to plant cukes with sunflowers. The sunflowers provide a strong support for the vines. Cukes also do well with peas, beets and carrots. Dill planted with cucumbers by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor. Keep sage away from cukes.


9) MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.
*


French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds.




*Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.


11) NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and wonderful in salads!


*12) PARSLEY: Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base. Rose problems? See: Rose Rx for answers. Mint and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away from one another.


13) PEPPERS, BELL (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree. Peppers can double as ornamentals, so tuck some into flowerbeds and borders. Harvesting tip: The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers can be harvested at any stage of growth, but their flavor doesn't fully develop until maturity.


14) PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.


15) POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.


16) SQUASH: Companions: Corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon and pumpkin. Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.


17) TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is not the most attractive of plants. Tansy which is often recommended as an ant repellant may only work on sugar type ants. These are the ones that you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen. At least for us placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed. Don't be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile with its' high potassium content.


18)TOMATOES: Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth. Enemies: corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm.


*19) WORMWOODaka Silver Mound ) Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An excellent deterrent to most insects. Powis castle attracts ladybugs which in turn breed directly on the plant.


20) YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer.

[Patrina_Pepperina]

MsCowpea and tlcmd, thank you very much for this useful information! This thread is one I will refer back to many times I'm sure

Patrina

[Lee]

More photos....

Here we show the effects of TSWV on the fruit of a Gary O'Sena. I orignally thought
I had casued problems with this plant due to herbicide drift, but the fruit proved
otherwise.

Also, a photo of the leaves, to show that TSWV can have a variety of looks on
different types of tomatoes.

Lee

[feldon30]

The purplish bronzing on the leaves is telltale, but as you say, it can look very different. Sometimes from the veins out, sometimes on the ridges of the leaves. In your case on the edges. The "targets" on the fruit are depressing.

[neoguy]

Does my Ashleigh have the dreaded TSWV?

[shelleybean]

Neo, I don't know what that is but it doesn't look like TSWV to me. Hopefully someone can help you identify it and it can be corrected. Good luck!

[MikeInCypress]

Doesn't look like TSWV to me either. Looks a little like Early Blight. I'd spray daconil and check the new growth in a week.

MikeInCypress

[neoguy]

Shelley and Mike, thanks for the encouraging replies. I thought I was going to have to pull the plants today. I'll start treatments instead.

[lakeshorenc]

I already have had to pull one plant, I planted 20. I was wondering if any other NC people were having the same problem. I was going to spray more insectide this year and decided against it after our yard was full of ladybugs and honey bee's. Doesn't sound like it would help anyway. I have decided to just relax and see what happens. I have a little greenhouse, I put 6 plants in to see if that will keep the little buggers away. I would like to know who's already dealing with this and where in NC you are located. My tomato growing buddy lives about 20 miles from me and didn't have this problem last year. I have had it every year for 6 years now. They get some of my flowers and other vegtables too. If anybody has any new idea's, I'd love to hear about them.Theresa

[ssi912]

we have had 4 cases of it here on st. simons island, ga. i had to pull one "black" plant and one big beef. both were loaded with fruit. my neighbor two doors down had to pull two of his plants. why it didnt affect the other plants, i will never know. i had it once befor back in '06. it seems the colder the winter, the more the virus. i guess the thrips are just extra hungry from being cold longer. ill have a ton of foliar disease to deal with in the next month as well. it has been raining here almost non stop for three days and they expect it to continue for three more days. the rain situation here is definently feast or famine.

[b54red]

I lost too many plants each year from all forms of blights and diseases and have found something that has been fairly successful for me. I have been using a spray of 5% common household bleach along with a little soap ( 6 to 7 ounces of bleach added to a gallon of water) sprayed very early or very late. I will start spraying at the first sign of disease and have found this to be more effective than the fungicides I used to use. If a plant is badly infected it will usually die within a few days after the spray but one that is only mildly infected will have some leaves dry out and continue to produce. I had disease on most of my plants in early July and began spraying and most have survived and continue to produce good fruit. Some have no leaves on the bottom 3 ft or more but with some of my vines being 10 feet or more, that is no problem. The one variety that this has not worked on at all is New Little Big Dwarf (got 2 tomatoes off of 4 plants). My white fly problem is awful every year in early fall and I usually spray with soaps, oils, mild insecticide and essential oils to keep then at bay. Some of my indeterminates planted in May are still producing and I have set out new plants as late as 8-9-09, and have lost a few to disease and pests but most are chugging along and starting to set fruit as well as show signs of disease.
I have been using various formulations and found that anything above a 6 1/2% mix is too strong and causes damage to healthy plant growth on tomatoes and peppers. This solution is also effective against downy mildew on squash and cucs though it kills off the badly infected parts of the plant.
I try to use organic methods as much as possible but living in lower Alabama with near 100% humidity and every pest and disease known it is just too frustrating.
I love this site. Bill
varieties this year:
Marianna's Peace **
Applause*
Floralina**
Big Beef**
Paul Robeson*
Brandy Boy**
1st Prize***
Champion
Ball's Beefsteak
Small Fry********
Steak Sandwich**
Celebrity
Cabernet**
Omar's Lebanese
Giant Belgium*
* indicate the best producers this year.

[lakeshorenc]

Had the worst tomato year ever!!! Within a week or two of putting plants in the ground, I started to see signs of TSWV. After that, I just got dicouraged and left everything alone. I had about a month of OK tomatoes. The greenhouse tomatoes grew ok but only the Black Cherry had any fruit. I am at a loss as to what to do. I LOVE growing tomatoes but as long as there's nothing much I can do for the Thrips, it's really not worth the time or trouble. Theresa

[Blueaussi]

Theresa, do you know what the reservoir for the <spit!> thrips is in your immediate area? I had a terrible time with TSWV until I figured out that the mulberry-less mulberry trees were laoded with <spit!> thrips all summer. Once I started removing them, I was able to get the <spit!> thrips and their weapon of mass destruction, TSWV under control.

I still plant at least one hybrid that is resistant to TSWV every year just in case, but I rarely see any TSWV on more than the odd tomato or pepper anymore. I lost one Corno Di Toro to it this year, but I didn't see any on the tomatoes.