Soil... I need simple - Page 3

Rockporter · October 26, 2012

One thing I have noticed is that we have not discussed nutrients for the inert potting mixes used in self watering containers.

Dolomite lime must be added to the peat mixes because the peat is too highly acidic for all seeded vegetable plants, except strawberries and there is something else but I cannot think right off the top of my head what it is.

Using a maximum of 15-15-15 fertlizer for the plants. I use 10-10-10 because that is what is available here in my area. Others use 7-7-7 and many others between. The trick is getting a good PH balance and ferts too.

Rockporter · October 26, 2012

Sorry Keger, it isn't so simple but it works, lol.

FreyaFL · October 26, 2012

Wow, great info! I'll get some peat moss and rejuvenate that bag. Also REALLY glad to know why I've read "add dolomite" in so many places when making potting mix. Thank you!

coloken · October 26, 2012

Gosh, now I know what I have been doing wrong. My tomatoes only got way over my head- a good 8 foot high this year. Because I have never added Dolomite lime, or any lime to my potting mix. I will try to remember to find some for next year.
Added
I should add that here in Colorado no body uses lime in farming that is so usual in other parts of the county but this is sage brush county very alkaline.

Rockporter · October 26, 2012

Freya,

Add about 2 cups dolomite to 2 cubic feet of mix for your containers. The best thing to do is add the mix to your container and know how much you will use in the container and then mix in the dolomite lime.

You must use "DOLOMITE LIME" not "HYDRATED LIME".

Dolomite will break down slowly and allow the plant to uptake the necessary nutrients from it.

Hydrated Lime will break down all at once and burn your roots.

I get Dolomite Lime at my local Tractor Supply Store and it is pelletized. I get a 40lb bag for around $4 or $5, I don't remember the exact price.

Rockporter · October 26, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by coloken

Gosh, now I know what I have been doing wrong. My tomatoes only got way over my head- a good 8 foot high this year. Because I have never added Dolomite lime, or any lime to my potting mix. I will try to remember to find some for next year.
Added
I should add that here in Colorado no body uses lime in farming that is so usual in other parts of the county but this is sage brush county very alkaline.

We are talking container gardening, using inert mixes with no nutrients or soil to start with, right?

FreyaFL · October 27, 2012

Thanks, Rockporter!

**mdvpc** · October 27, 2012

In addition to my fert and lime, I add 1 tablespoon of azomite.

coloken · October 27, 2012

Rockporter, While i am joking about it, I am referring to my raised beds and all so to my containers in my GH which have only potting mix (forest products and peat) and perlite. Possible the potting mix has lime along with the fertilizer. Any way I am not dumb enough to overlook good advice and what you say. I will defiantly be looking for dolomite lime in the future. We are never to old to learn

coastal bend · October 27, 2012

Rockporter do you think the 10-10-10 is better down here than the 7-7-7. After the the first flush of tomatoes are picked it seems that the plants seem to struggle to keep going. I thought maybe the 7-7-7 fert had played out. Also is the Dolomite you buy down here is the same as from EB. A lot cheaper to buy down here. Thanks Coastalbend

Rockporter · October 27, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by coloken

Rockporter, While i am joking about it, I am referring to my raised beds and all so to my containers in my GH which have only potting mix (forest products and peat) and perlite. Possible the potting mix has lime along with the fertilizer. Any way I am not dumb enough to overlook good advice and what you say. I will defiantly be looking for dolomite lime in the future. We are never to old to learn

Dolomite lime helps to stop the blossom end rot which occurs when the mix is too acidic.

Rockporter · October 27, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by coastal bend

Rockporter do you think the 10-10-10 is better down here than the 7-7-7. After the the first flush of tomatoes are picked it seems that the plants seem to struggle to keep going. I thought maybe the 7-7-7 fert had played out. Also is the Dolomite you buy down here is the same as from EB. A lot cheaper to buy down here. Thanks Coastalbend

Hi coastal bend, yes I do think the 10-10-10 is better because it seems to last much longer than the EB ferts. I have 8 new EB's and I can tell the 7-7-7- is not as good as using the 10-10-10. I buy it at Lowe's in a green bag.

It is possible that the stress our plants are under in our weather is part of the cause. I think maybe the plants need to take up more nutrients to get through the hot and humid conditions they are under most of the time.

The dolomite lime I get from Tractor Supply is not the same as EB's. The EB one is a pulverized/powdered one and the Tractor Supply one is a pelletized lime. It is easier to work with in my opinion and doesn't blow around near as bad as the powdered stuff in our wind. It is definitely much cheaper than buying from EB.

greentiger87 · October 28, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockporter

Dolomite lime helps to stop the blossom end rot which occurs when the mix is too acidic.

I disagree. If the mix is so acidic or deficient in calcium that blossom end rot is occurring, I think calcium deficiency will be obvious from miniaturized, distorted and chlorotic new growth.

Blossom end rot occurs because of some variation of moisture stress. The plant isn't moving water, with dissolved calcium, through the plant fast enough to provide calcium to the fruits (which don't transpire as much as leaves). The underlying causes of this can be numerous.

Carolyn has written about this quite a bit I think, though I don't have a link handy

Rockporter · October 28, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by greentiger87

I disagree. If the mix is so acidic or deficient in calcium that blossom end rot is occurring, I think calcium deficiency will be obvious from miniaturized, distorted and chlorotic new growth.

Blossom end rot occurs because of some variation of moisture stress. The plant isn't moving water, with dissolved calcium, through the plant fast enough to provide calcium to the fruits (which don't transpire as much as leaves). The underlying causes of this can be numerous.

Carolyn has written about this quite a bit I think, though I don't have a link handy

Wel, it is the way I understod it to be and what you are saying is pretty much the same thing, just in a more detailed way. Thanks for the information.

October 26, 2012	#31
Rockporter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Texas Coastal Bend Posts: 3,205	One thing I have noticed is that we have not discussed nutrients for the inert potting mixes used in self watering containers. Dolomite lime must be added to the peat mixes because the peat is too highly acidic for all seeded vegetable plants, except strawberries and there is something else but I cannot think right off the top of my head what it is. Using a maximum of 15-15-15 fertlizer for the plants. I use 10-10-10 because that is what is available here in my area. Others use 7-7-7 and many others between. The trick is getting a good PH balance and ferts too. __________________ In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~ Last edited by Rockporter; October 26, 2012 at 10:41 PM.

October 26, 2012	#32
Rockporter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Texas Coastal Bend Posts: 3,205	Sorry Keger, it isn't so simple but it works, lol. __________________ In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~

October 26, 2012	#34
coloken Tomatovillian™ Honoree Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NE Co Posts: 303	Gosh, now I know what I have been doing wrong. My tomatoes only got way over my head- a good 8 foot high this year. Because I have never added Dolomite lime, or any lime to my potting mix. I will try to remember to find some for next year. Added I should add that here in Colorado no body uses lime in farming that is so usual in other parts of the county but this is sage brush county very alkaline. Last edited by coloken; October 26, 2012 at 10:43 PM.

October 26, 2012	#35
Rockporter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Texas Coastal Bend Posts: 3,205	Freya, Add about 2 cups dolomite to 2 cubic feet of mix for your containers. The best thing to do is add the mix to your container and know how much you will use in the container and then mix in the dolomite lime. You must use "DOLOMITE LIME" not "HYDRATED LIME". Dolomite will break down slowly and allow the plant to uptake the necessary nutrients from it. Hydrated Lime will break down all at once and burn your roots. I get Dolomite Lime at my local Tractor Supply Store and it is pelletized. I get a 40lb bag for around $4 or $5, I don't remember the exact price. __________________ In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~

October 27, 2012	#38
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	In addition to my fert and lime, I add 1 tablespoon of azomite. __________________ Michael

October 26, 2012	#33
FreyaFL Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: SW FL Posts: 152	Wow, great info! I'll get some peat moss and rejuvenate that bag. Also REALLY glad to know why I've read "add dolomite" in so many places when making potting mix. Thank you!

October 27, 2012	#40
coastal bend Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: south texas Posts: 114	Rockporter do you think the 10-10-10 is better down here than the 7-7-7. After the the first flush of tomatoes are picked it seems that the plants seem to struggle to keep going. I thought maybe the 7-7-7 fert had played out. Also is the Dolomite you buy down here is the same as from EB. A lot cheaper to buy down here. Thanks Coastalbend