USDA and Sunset Zone maps

Suze · February 4, 2006

Here's a link to the USDA Hardiness zone map:
http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html

Here's a link to the Sunset climate zones:
http://www.sunset.com/garden/climate-zones/

Also, here's a link to the AHS heat zone finder (by zip code):
http://www.ahs.org/publications/heat_zone_finder.htm
The metric on this one, if I recall correctly, is based on the the number of days ~85F or greater/per year.

However, in my opinion, for growing tomatoes, folks are going to get the most useful information by looking at their own area historical climatological data -- daily highs and lows, precipitation, etc.

This can be found in chart form by month (sometimes referred to as F-6) on your local National Weather Service website. Find your local forecast, then look for links to local climatology for the closest major city. Here's where to start out (http://www.nws.noaa.gov/), and enter your zip code.

Here's an example for Fort Worth, TX (http://www.weather.gov/climate/index.php?wfo=fwd)

Historical data can also be found on Weather Underground (http://www.wunderground.com/history/)

(last updated 2011.02.25)

coho · April 6, 2006

Thank you.

feldon30 · May 29, 2006

Suze,

Thanks for the info on that website. I stumbled upon the Houston data a while back but have had a hard time explaining to people how to use that website. The data is still in different formats depending upon the region. The data for Dallas/FW is more organized than Houston I think.

Still the best info is the Normals (Max/Min) for estimating when the average high is SUPPOSED to be below 90. Then I just have to aim for fruit set around that time (I think).

What happens if I jump the gun and start transplants a few days/weeks early and set them out? Will the bugs get to them? Will the heat get to them? My first time on gardening and especially on doing 2 crops of tomatoes.

P.S. Did you get soaked today? 1-2 hours of rain is nice. But 8?

P.P.S. I'm having GW withdrawls.

Suze · May 30, 2006

Hi, Feldon--

Quote:

Originally Posted by feldon27

Still the best info is the Normals (Max/Min) for estimating when the average high is SUPPOSED to be below 90. Then I just have to aim for fruit set around that time (I think).

What happens if I jump the gun and start transplants a few days/weeks early and set them out? Will the bugs get to them? Will the heat get to them? My first time on gardening and especially on doing 2 crops of tomatoes.

When were you planning on starting your seeds? I think you had said at the other place that it would be soon.

I live in the metroplex and generally get mine started sometime before mid-June (will probably do it the weekend of the 10th) for transplant no later than Aug 1.

You're going to be pretty much on that same schedule in South Texas -- but will have more potential leeway in getting mid/late season fruit to ripen than I do. And that's why I mostly stick with the cherry/small fruited types.

Yes, the heat can get to them if you aren't careful. The transplants don't need to be grown in all-day blazing sun; they could be grown where there is good morning sun or a strong all-day dapple. Then there's shade cloth.

Also, you can grow your transplants inside under lights, then move them out for the last two weeks of July to very carefully harden off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by feldon27

P.S. Did you get soaked today? 1-2 hours of rain is nice. But 8?

Not yet -- looks you guys are really getting hammered, though. Hope things dry out for you.

feldon30 · May 30, 2006

Starting seeds the next few days. Probably June 1-June 15th.

The guides for Houston say to put tomato transplants in (or outside) around July 25th.

I keep looking at my lists thinking I'm being too ambitious with large fruited varieties. I'll probably double-up on mid-size fruit. Still thinking of pulling the trigger and getting a few more mid-sized winners like Opalka, Jaune Flamme, and Anna Russian.

Suze · May 30, 2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by feldon27

I keep looking at my lists thinking I'm being too ambitious with large fruited varieties. I'll probably double-up on mid-size fruit. Still thinking of pulling the trigger and getting a few more mid-sized winners like Opalka, Jaune Flamme, and Anna Russian.

Sounds like a good plan, Feldon. Sure, try a few larger fruited varieties, but odds are that you're probably going to have the best success with the smaller fruited and earlier varieties. Just about any cherry type will do. Sungold is fabulous, so is Sun Cherry, Black Cherry, Green Grape, Dr. Carolyn, Gardener's Delight.

Also, Stupice, Matina, Bloody Butcher, Kimberly. I know the first three will set well in Sept, yet to find out about Kim. I figure it's going to do just fine, as it's still setting for me now.

And Silvery Fir Tree.

Have had good luck with Anna for fall crop in the past. Another one you might want to consider for fall is Kosovo -- it has been really early and prolific for me this year.

Jaune Flamme -- excellent choice.

feldon30 · May 30, 2006

I wasn't really planning on being deluged with cherry tomatoes. If that's most of what I can grow, I'll grow other stuff like yellow wax beans, brussels sprouts, etc.

I am going to grow Sungold and maybe Matt's Wild Cherry again (nursery-bought) if my first attempt at seed fermenting works.

feldon30 · July 10, 2006

Just to update, no Opalkas for me, but Viva Italia, San Marzano, Sungold, Stupice, Eva Purple Ball, Matt's Wild Cherry (2 cuttings took root and are doing very well, plus a few of the seeds I saved FINALLY came up -- my first time saving seeds I must have missed something) are all doing well. I still have a lot of large fruited varieties so I guess I am just going to roll the dice.

Never know, they might have something interesting at local nurseries too. 2 nurseries are supposed to have transplants in a week or 3.

amideutch · August 21, 2006

USDA Hardiness Zones for Europe.
http://seedrack.com/eurozones.html
In case anybody is interested.
Amideutch

Suze · August 21, 2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by amideutch

USDA Hardiness Zones for Europe.
http://seedrack.com/eurozones.html
In case anybody is interested.
Amideutch

Ted, good idea -- thanks for posting it.

Liz · April 25, 2007

Thanks, this was a keeper

huntsman · July 28, 2009

SUZE ~

Regarding the Zones, is there any way to figure out which zone is most similar to mine in South Africa?

I guess that if I can establish that, I can find help in the various areas more easily...?

Cheers!

amideutch · July 28, 2009

http://www.backyardgardener.com/zone/africa.html

huntsman · July 28, 2009

Thanks Ami ~

Does that equate to the US zones? So, if I'm in zone 10 on that map, is it also zone 10 on the US map?

amideutch · July 28, 2009

http://www.backyardgardener.com/zone/index.html

February 4, 2006	#1
Suze Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 3,027	USDA and Sunset Zone maps Here's a link to the USDA Hardiness zone map: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html Here's a link to the Sunset climate zones: http://www.sunset.com/garden/climate-zones/ Also, here's a link to the AHS heat zone finder (by zip code): http://www.ahs.org/publications/heat_zone_finder.htm The metric on this one, if I recall correctly, is based on the the number of days ~85F or greater/per year. However, in my opinion, for growing tomatoes, folks are going to get the most useful information by looking at their own area historical climatological data -- daily highs and lows, precipitation, etc. This can be found in chart form by month (sometimes referred to as F-6) on your local National Weather Service website. Find your local forecast, then look for links to local climatology for the closest major city. Here's where to start out (http://www.nws.noaa.gov/), and enter your zip code. Here's an example for Fort Worth, TX (http://www.weather.gov/climate/index.php?wfo=fwd) Historical data can also be found on Weather Underground (http://www.wunderground.com/history/) (last updated 2011.02.25)

April 6, 2006	#2
coho Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: zone 8/9 CA Posts: 1	USDA and Sunset Zone maps Thank you.

July 10, 2006	#8
feldon30 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 5,346	Just to update, no Opalkas for me, but Viva Italia, San Marzano, Sungold, Stupice, Eva Purple Ball, Matt's Wild Cherry (2 cuttings took root and are doing very well, plus a few of the seeds I saved FINALLY came up -- my first time saving seeds I must have missed something) are all doing well. I still have a lot of large fruited varieties so I guess I am just going to roll the dice. Never know, they might have something interesting at local nurseries too. 2 nurseries are supposed to have transplants in a week or 3. __________________ [SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I]

July 28, 2009	#13
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	http://www.backyardgardener.com/zone/africa.html __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

July 28, 2009	#15
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	http://www.backyardgardener.com/zone/index.html __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

May 29, 2006	#3
feldon30 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 5,346	Suze, Thanks for the info on that website. I stumbled upon the Houston data a while back but have had a hard time explaining to people how to use that website. The data is still in different formats depending upon the region. The data for Dallas/FW is more organized than Houston I think. Still the best info is the Normals (Max/Min) for estimating when the average high is SUPPOSED to be below 90. Then I just have to aim for fruit set around that time (I think). What happens if I jump the gun and start transplants a few days/weeks early and set them out? Will the bugs get to them? Will the heat get to them? My first time on gardening and especially on doing 2 crops of tomatoes. P.S. Did you get soaked today? 1-2 hours of rain is nice. But 8? P.P.S. I'm having GW withdrawls.

May 30, 2006	#5
feldon30 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 5,346	Starting seeds the next few days. Probably June 1-June 15th. The guides for Houston say to put tomato transplants in (or outside) around July 25th. I keep looking at my lists thinking I'm being too ambitious with large fruited varieties. I'll probably double-up on mid-size fruit. Still thinking of pulling the trigger and getting a few more mid-sized winners like Opalka, Jaune Flamme, and Anna Russian.

August 21, 2006	#9
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	USDA Hardiness Zones for Europe. http://seedrack.com/eurozones.html In case anybody is interested. Amideutch

April 25, 2007	#11
Liz Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 57	Thanks, this was a keeper

July 28, 2009	#12
huntsman Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa - GrowZone 9 Posts: 595	SUZE ~ Regarding the Zones, is there any way to figure out which zone is most similar to mine in South Africa? I guess that if I can establish that, I can find help in the various areas more easily...? Cheers!