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Old May 2, 2019   #331
brooksville
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I pulled one last week too, rolled over leaves, some black spots. Took to extension and they said it was TSW. Also, like Bill's no open flowers.
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Old May 6, 2019   #332
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Well I guess there won't be any Sudduth's for me this season. TSWV got the other one. They were side by side so the thrips probably got them at the same time but I guess this plant was stronger or more resistant. May leave it for a few more days and see how it fares but it doesn't look promising. One side has totally stopped growing and the other stem is now showing all the classic signs so it won't be long now.

I guess I could try starting some seeds of Brandywine Sudduth's for late summer or fall but it has never been one of the tomatoes that sets well in the extreme heat of summer. I try to get it in the ground as early as possible each year so if the first batch doesn't make I'm usually out of luck.

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Old May 6, 2019   #333
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In my second plant out that had 20 tomato plants it looks like my Henderson's Winsall may have it also. When it was set out it was one of the largest of the grafted seedlings and now it is at least a third smaller than any other of those set out then and it is looking a bit off color. It hasn't shown the classic rust yet but I fear it will be the next thing I notice on it. Keeping my fingers crossed that it is just reacting to the 90s we had this past week before it rained on Saturday night and cooled things off.

Bill
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Old May 6, 2019   #334
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Bill, that is a huge bummer. So sorry!
- Joyce
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Old May 7, 2019   #335
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Sorry to hear they're hitting you Bill. I still haven't germinated tomatoes as I wait out the spring thrips this year.



I've been transplanting volunteers as they come up all over and have placed them in-ground, some have fared really well--I suspect they are progeny of Bella Rossa and a few other TSWV resistant varieties I planted last year.

Others not so much, I've had to pull more than half of the volunteers, all TSWV, so waiting out the thrips was indeed the right strategy, as my season is long.
I bit the bullet and got TSWV resistant varieties from Johnny's this year:
-Granadero
-BHN-1021
-Plum Regal


I'll let you guys know how they do in my thrip-laden garden.
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Old May 7, 2019   #336
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We have a very long season also and I usually continue setting out tomatoes right into July and sometimes into August. The worst month for TSWV is usually May but it continues sporadically throughout the whole season. That is another advantage in staggering my plantouts from March through mid summer. So far this is just par for the course.

Bill
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Old June 7, 2019   #337
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About to pull 2 more, a Margaret Curtain and BPTD. Both have fruits about to blush, so I think we are going to wait for the first clusters to break color and pull both the plants and fruit.

John
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Old June 7, 2019   #338
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This forum is so helpful!

Fairly rare (thank God) for me here, but I saw the same spots as in the Post #1 at the top on my German Queen; it's also not growing.
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Old June 7, 2019   #339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksville View Post
About to pull 2 more, a Margaret Curtain and BPTD. Both have fruits about to blush, so I think we are going to wait for the first clusters to break color and pull both the plants and fruit.

John
John, if the plant is still fairly healthy looking and holding on then just leave it until it wilts. I have done this numerous times and seen no increase in TSWV. I had two plants with it one year a Brandywine Cowlick's and a Wes that survived for over two months and continued to produce usable tomatoes. If a plant is young or has no fruit near full growth then I just go ahead and pull the plant as soon as I am sure it is infected.

I haven't had another case of TSWV since the Henderson's Winsall but I am sure from past experience I will have more before the season ends but that is just part of growing tomatoes down here. I try to make sure that I have more plants than I need and live with the loses. I have never lost more than about 30 to 40 % of my plants in a year and that was a really bad year. I hope I never see another that bad because I plant far less tomatoes now than I did back then.

Bill
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Old June 12, 2019   #340
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I have beautiful plants but brown spotted warty looking fruit in my high tunnel. is there a mineral deficiency that would mimic what the fruit looks like from tswv? could I possibly have it this early and this far north? I am in northern Ohio
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Old June 13, 2019   #341
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I finally pulled my German Queen - the fruit started to look spotty and misshapen and there had been no growth for a month at least.

No other sign so far.
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Old June 13, 2019   #342
brooksville
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Bill good idea. We’lll wait on the MC. Already pull the BPTD. We pulled 2 from the MC that we’re starting to blush. They looked like they were ripening evenly so we haven’t pulled it yet. So far tho, we are having a good year. The JD’s is winning the taste test and Cherokee purple is winning fruit set. Can’t go wrong with those 2.
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Old June 13, 2019   #343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksville View Post
Bill good idea. We’lll wait on the MC. Already pull the BPTD. We pulled 2 from the MC that we’re starting to blush. They looked like they were ripening evenly so we haven’t pulled it yet. So far tho, we are having a good year. The JD’s is winning the taste test and Cherokee purple is winning fruit set. Can’t go wrong with those 2.
JD's when it is right is the very best tasting of the blacks to me. For fruit set nothing touches Indian Stripe PL. Spudakee which is the potato leaf version of Cherokee Purple does very well and is more dependable in our heat and humdity. Gary O" Sina produces some of the largest tomatoes on a plant that is super vigorous so best keep the pruning shears ready if you plant it. Gary O' is a tomato machine and a big one.

Bill
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Old June 16, 2019   #344
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Default thrips YOU WILL DIE

Visited the agricultural supply stores south of Ensenada and procured:


1) Exalt, active ingredient Spinetoram. Instead of the standard Spinosyn D,

this one has the J and L variants. I hope it's worth it.


2) BeLeaf, active ingredient Flonicamid. I'll be using it on my citrus trees,
and "trap" flowers. I arrived at this one thanks to a very helpful gentlemen
who overheard my inquiry about product #1 and was subjected, as many of you have too, to my

lamentations on thrips.



Also bought Haifa MKP, Yara Tristar, Yara Cal Nitrate, Mag Sulfate,

Grow More Micro Mix, and high quality peat in 300 L bales from

Florapeat and Pindstrup (Green Seeding Substrate),

both EU products. Sidenote: the 300 L bales x 3 cost less

than a single 107 L/3.8 cuft PromixBM.



So overall, a successful run.


Thrips, whiteflies, and any other unfortunate soft body
insects commingling with them on my plants will encounter:


Neem/Karanja Oil combo
Met 52 EC
Exalt
BeLeaf


All in appropriate rotation with each insect's life cycle

taken into consideration.
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Old June 19, 2019   #345
brooksville
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Is this tswv? That is the growing tip on the pic.
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