Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 4, 2018 | #16 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Quote:
Try the Mocha Splash, it is early, productive too. |
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March 4, 2018 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St Paul, MN
Posts: 158
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These have done well for me:
Bear Creek Black from Tula Gary'O Sena JD's Special C-Tex Noire charbonneuse Carbon Cherokee Carbon |
March 4, 2018 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 768
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Black Krim, Black from Tula and Cherokee Purple are the ones I like. I don't think that the colour of a tomato requires any special conditions, they are all the same species. You might want to give them a head start by growing them under cover for the early part of the season and then removing it latter on. Simple cloches work really well in cool climates at the start of the year.
Alex
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I'll plant and I'll harvest what the earth brings forth The hammer's on the table, the pitchfork's on the shelf Bob Dylan |
March 4, 2018 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 5,918
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I think all of the tomatoes in your list are great. Go with your instinct and grow the ones you highlighted this year. Eventually though you may wish to try them all until you find your favourite
KarenO |
March 4, 2018 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 3,194
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We grew Berkeley Tie-Dye (not pink) under bad conditions: too much shade, pure clay soil, about 15 cm of soil over bedrock, and "dry farming", very little water. Under these conditions it produced 11 tomatoes, and the taste was VERY strong. It wasn't sweet, but it was good tasting. It was NOT boring. If grown in deeper soil, and better soil, it ought to produce more.
Nan |
March 4, 2018 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,909
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I second Black From Tula and add Indian Stripe , both RL and PL. They have real well for me in a shaded garden back in PNW.
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! |
March 4, 2018 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Belgium
Posts: 240
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I'll choose:
Bear Creek Large barred boar My nameless black (to compare to large barred boar) Mocha splash These will go in my parents garden (more sun): Berkeley tie dye (or pink Berkeley tie dye, I'll google the difference) Black and red boar Margeret curtain Thanks guys! |
March 6, 2018 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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Why do you need early tomatoes? I have lived there for one year, and temperatures etc indicate one has a fairly long growing season (I would expect ripening from around mid july to end of october).
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March 6, 2018 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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March 6, 2018 | #25 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 3,194
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Quote:
Nan |
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March 6, 2018 | #26 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Belgium
Posts: 240
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Quote:
Our season isn't short indeed. In theory our last frost date is May 15 but in reality we never have frost that late. Some winters pass without frost (even though that is rare), but most winters we have only a couple of night frosts. Our first frost date is the end of October. But again, that is very pessimistic. This year we had frost the second half of February and I assume that will be it for this year. Our season is long enough. But cool. Our warmest months are June (min 12°C, max 21°C, average 16°C = 60°F) July (min 14°C, max 23°C, average 18°C = 64°F) and August (a little bit cooler then July). That is not very warm. It can also be cloudy during weeks and sometimes it rains. Some years we have nice summers but as you have met Belgians, we always complain about rain/clouds/grey skies. The plants thrive in those warmer months but then the temperatures drop again. I think plants here grow a lot slower and fruit ripens slower when it is cool. It is advised here to not grown varieties with a 75+ dtm if you don't have a greenhouse. But actually those days don't count, since I get easily 90 days of growing season. The idea behind is that if a midseason variety takes 75 days to mature in a warm climate, it might take, I don't know, 90 days in a cooler climate. Please correct me if I see this wrong. I am not experienced enough. Last year I had some plants that did almost nothing: Rebel Yell (1 fruit), Wes (1), Arbuznyi (0). That was annoying. Maybe there exist some late varieties that don't mind cool temperatures, and hold on to there promised dtm ;-). In that case they are welcome :-). They will also have to handle very limited ours of sunshine, after mid September. |
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March 6, 2018 | #27 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Belgium
Posts: 240
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Quote:
The varieties that need heat will not taste as good as they should eighter. |
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March 6, 2018 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 857
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March 7, 2018 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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Black krim was special the first year in my garden. That year weeding was immpossible, and BK was the only one to have fruit among the 5 foot weeds. And the flavor was memorable.
It can handle shade IMO, just not quite as much as the weeds provided. |
March 9, 2018 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,909
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I have mix results on Black Krim. First time, about 12 yrs ago did well in Atlanta. But 4 yrs ago did poorly in PNW. Then I found other blacks that I liked better like Indian Stripe Black from Tula , Cherokee Purple, . So I have no reason to go back to BK.
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! |
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