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Old October 13, 2014   #1
tam91
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Default Black Seeded Blue Lake (Pole beans)

I grew these for the first time this year - they were great! They were earlier and tastier than the regular (white seeded) Blue Lake - I grew them side by side.

So these and Neckargold are now on my always grow beans list.
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Old October 13, 2014   #2
Dutch
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Tracy, Thanks for info on the Black Seeded Blue Lake pole beans.
Did Neckargold beans have any "bean rust"spots?
Dutch
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Old October 15, 2014   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tam91 View Post
I grew these for the first time this year - they were great! They were earlier and tastier than the regular (white seeded) Blue Lake - I grew them side by side.

So these and Neckargold are now on my always grow beans list.
So what others do you like? I grew pole beans this year. Purple King, and Fortex stood out. I'm just finishing them off. Still alive. About done though.
Very productive! I grew others like a cranberry colored pole bean. It did well, not as productive but the beans were very sweet. Anyway for the first time I was amazed at the huge harvest. Thanks for mentioning these two. I will try them, though sometimes location makes a difference.
So Purple King and Fortex are on my keeper list. And the Cranbury too, just for the good taste.
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Old October 15, 2014   #4
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I didn't get any bean rust on any of my beans, no Neckargold did not have any this year. I don't remember them having any in previous years.

I liked Fortex also.

I also grew Cosse Violetto - such fun to have the purple ones, shame they turn green when cooked.
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Old October 15, 2014   #5
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Thanks, Tracy. I appreciate the information. I usually get it on the bush types. Thanks again.
Dutch
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Old October 15, 2014   #6
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I didn't get any bean rust on any of my beans, no Neckargold did not have any this year. I don't remember them having any in previous years.

I liked Fortex also.

I also grew Cosse Violetto - such fun to have the purple ones, shame they turn green when cooked.
The Purple King, too turned green. it is more a flat pod, or semi-round. A nice bean! What I like about Fortex is even if fairly big, they would still come out tender and stringless. Thanks for the additional variety worth trying. Some I talked to had no luck with Fortex, but man they were long, tender, productive, very nice for me.
I want to try the Italian sampler pole beans from Franchi
http://www.growitalian.com/pole-bean-sampler/

I'm pretty happy with the seeds from them so far.

Last edited by drew51; October 15, 2014 at 07:19 PM.
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Old October 15, 2014   #7
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Thanks, Tracy. I appreciate the information. I usually get it on the bush types. Thanks again.
Dutch

Well I may have to grow bush next year, as I plan to rotate, and well i really only have one spot for pole beans. I'm hoping to fit a tower elsewhere, but may not be able to. The current spot is wire with parachute rope strung between two conduit poles. I'm growing garlic (already planted) and peppers there next year. I'll remove the rope, or slide it to the end out of the way.
So feel free to mention any good bush beans.
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Old October 15, 2014   #8
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Hi Drew,
This year I grew Top Notch Golden Wax Bush. They were great early, but when the gray mold hit the tomatoes, bean rust hit my beans. I had wanted to use the later ones to pickle with hot peppers.
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Old October 17, 2014   #9
ChristinaJo
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I really liked the musica pole beans I grew this year. Will grow them again.
I also have the two first varieties of pole beans from Franchi seeds. Will grow those in the spring!
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Old October 18, 2014   #10
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I really liked the musica pole beans I grew this year. Will grow them again.
I also have the two first varieties of pole beans from Franchi seeds. Will grow those in the spring!
"Musica" is the Latin word for music.

Dutch
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I come from a long line of sod busters, spanning back several centuries.

Last edited by Dutch; October 18, 2014 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Removed unnecessary rhetorical question
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Old October 25, 2014   #11
saltmarsh
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Default Rust and Wilt on Beans

If you have problems with Rust and Wilt with your beans, I've had good results using a tea made from Horsetails (Equisetum arvense) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equisetum_arvense

It works well as both a preventative spray for Rust and stops active infections of Wilt.

If anyone is interested I'll post the recipe. Claud
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Old October 25, 2014   #12
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If you have problems with Rust and Wilt with your beans, I've had good results using a tea made from Horsetails (Equisetum arvense) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equisetum_arvense

It works well as both a preventative spray for Rust and stops active infections of Wilt.

If anyone is interested I'll post the recipe. Claud
I'm interested, Claud.
And thanks in advance!
Dutch
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The intuitive mind is a gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. But we have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift. (paraphrased) Albert Einstein

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Old October 25, 2014   #13
saltmarsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
I'm interested, Claud.
And thanks in advance!
Dutch
The Common or Field Horsetail is what I use and is the only variety suitable as all others are poisonous. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equisetum_arvense

I don't use any commercial pesticides, herbicides, fungicides or fertilizers in the garden.

Horsetail tea is used as part of Biodynamic Farming and this recipe is the result of information gleaned from several articles and using it for several years.

For each gallon of concentrated tea you will need 6 green Horsetail fronds about 30" in length chopped into 1/2 " pieces (I use a paper cutter) and 1 gallon of hot water.

I make the tea in 3 gallon batches using a 16 quart stockpot and a 23 quart enameled steel canner. I put 18 chopped fronds in each pot with 3 gallons of hot water and bring to a boil (covered), allow to boil for 15 minutes. Then allow to cool overnight and strain with a stocking. Pour into 2 liter soda bottles and store in a closet until needed. It keeps for over a year without refrigeration.

This makes a concentrated tea and must be diluted to use.

For a preventative spray mix 2 1/4 cups of tea with 1 gallon of water and spray plants including underside of leaves to the point of runoff.

For an active infection double the mix to 4 1/2 cups of tea per gallon water.

I add a tablespoon of molasses per gallon of spray as a sticker when I spray.

New growth on plants will not be protected and depending on how fast your plants are growing will need to be resprayed in about 10 - 14 days.

I've used it for mildew on squash, cucumbers, beans, cantelopes, and melons. Rust and Wilt on beans. Wilts and Blights on tomatoes and peppers. Molds on peas and beans.

I hope this will be of use. Claud
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Old December 21, 2014   #14
drew51
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If I ever see that plant I will try it. But it looks unfamiliar.
Thanks all for the suggestions. I need to make a 2nd spot for pole beans so I can rotate. Also I found that they were disease free. I had powdery mildew on some melons, and some wilt late in the season on tomatoes. But the beans were fine all year.
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