Tomatoes in Texas - Page 3

OldHondaNut · February 20, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by vintagepatch

Algyros, I live in Austin. If you are new to gardening in Texas then full sun means usually part shade or filtered. If your not new-- then you know.

I had decent results in buckets last year.
The batch was planted the beginning of March and the second is around the middle of May.
The "Hot" batch/varieties gets late day sun and morning shade. The other half of the buckets gets early morning sun and as you already know--plant plenty of cherry varieties. I concur with everybody else on the varieties. Also, I don't know if you know about Sunshine Gardens Community Plant sale. It takes place the beginning of March and the have Gabriel Valley Farm grows their transplants for the sale. Here is the link from last years sale with the plant list. http://www.sunshinecommunitygardens....hp?p=plantsale

There are many helpful and knowledgeable people on TV. Most days--I'm not one of them.

Are the plants in the second picture in buckets? Is this a before/after shot?

I ask cause I don't get that kind of results from my 5 gallon buckets.

Mojo · February 20, 2013

Richmond, eh? I was just living in Clodine only one summer ago...

Get 'em in the ground early and be ready to cover. Anything over 80 days is really pushing it around here, as a rule. Atkinson rules! but it is a late finisher, no matter what the descriptions actually say. Black Krim will also do fine, as will Cherokee Purple, Goose Creek, Kosovo/Hungarian Heart, Dona, Orange-1, Azoytchka, JD's C-Tex, Berkeley Tie-Dye, Pork Chop, Hawaiian Pineapple, Gregori's Altai, B/B Boar, Bloody Butcher, any hybrid sold at the big box store (ain't nothin' wrong with Celebrity, folks!), and any cherry you can lay hands on.

pilgrimfive · February 21, 2013

I'm in Killeen and the last two years have been brutal on the plants. I had eight plants of various varieties (from WalMart) and non of them did well. REALLY hot and the Earthboxes probably need the soil changed. I think I used a 50/50 mix of garden dirt and compost that may have had some residual chemicals. The plants showed signs of something that I could not recognize the cause for.

Dewayne mater · February 21, 2013

Hello Pilgrim: ;-)

I have only one earthbox, but several of Raybos earthtainers. I found that the soil mix earthbox sent remained wet and caused things to rot. I switched over to Rays tested 3:2:1 mix and the EB did well. Check out his posts in the how to section for details on the soiless mix. Good luck.

Dewayne mater.

Urbanfarmer · February 21, 2013

South of Houston, my experience has been.....no problem growing any kind of tomato you want if you sprout your seeds in early Jan and get them outside by mid-Feb, preferably 12" tall.

What the northerners don't know is that we really don't have the long growing season they think we do. We have two short seasons: Spring and Fall/Winter. Summer is so brutal that most folks plan on their gardens being done by July 1. Take a break, and start germinating again in mid-August. That's what we do, and we've been very successful.

We grow all the heirlooms and hybrids in those two seasons. We tried Solar Fire through one summer. We had huge plants and tons of tomatoes, but we literally threw hundreds of them away because the quality was so bad.

If you look at my avatar picture, that is a row of Solar Fire. Terrific pollination in the heat, awful tomato.

charley · February 22, 2013

copperas cove -1hour north of austin. blush, lime green salad,black plum,sun gold,tigers paw,all did well.but like they say plant early

Keger · February 22, 2013

Seeing a few new buds on Pecan trees.... It's officially on...

Keger · February 22, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Urbanfarmer

South of Houston, my experience has been.....no problem growing any kind of tomato you want if you sprout your seeds in early Jan and get them outside by mid-Feb, preferably 12" tall.

What the northerners don't know is that we really don't have the long growing season they think we do. We have two short seasons: Spring and Fall/Winter. Summer is so brutal that most folks plan on their gardens being done by July 1. Take a break, and start germinating again in mid-August. That's what we do, and we've been very successful.

We grow all the heirlooms and hybrids in those two seasons. We tried Solar Fire through one summer. We had huge plants and tons of tomatoes, but we literally threw hundreds of them away because the quality was so bad.

If you look at my avatar picture, that is a row of Solar Fire. Terrific pollination in the heat, awful tomato.

Little thread jack here... But Ed, do I want to do the Texas Tomato food yet or just the veggie food? They are rockin, and I am selling plants at market now and would like to green them up quick.

OldHondaNut · February 22, 2013

I agree with the early and two seasons and only a couple of indeterminates are strong enough to carry both seasons. Last year Amish Paste and Large Red Cherry made it. Most years I can get a Better Boy to be strong enough to out produce a new fall transplant.

About the early, I look at the last average freeze date. A week before that date, my tomatoes are ready and if the weather looks good and the soil is warm, they go in. If not, I wait until it is. That could also be a week late. Develop a second group in case of hail or a late freeze. You can always cover if it gets cold the first week or two but the soil has to be warm.

If you buy transplants, get them early. The box stores get shipments early and some do not water or bring them in from the cold. Buy them early but don't plant them until the time is right.

checkerkitty · February 22, 2013

I've already started planting. I put about 13 plants in buckets/pots on Sunday. This weekend I'll be prepping the rest of the garden for plant out next week. I've never planted this early with such large seedlings. Fingers crossed that it's a great year. I know I'll be doing a lot of watering. It's going to be a very dry season, I'm afraid.

Urbanfarmer · February 22, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by checkerkitty

I've already started planting. I put about 13 plants in buckets/pots on Sunday. This weekend I'll be prepping the rest of the garden for plant out next week. I've never planted this early with such large seedlings. Fingers crossed that it's a great year. I know I'll be doing a lot of watering. It's going to be a very dry season, I'm afraid.

Can you put an automated drip system on them? It'll save you a lot of work and cut down on the BER. You can even go on vacation.

Urbanfarmer · February 22, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keger

Little thread jack here... But Ed, do I want to do the Texas Tomato food yet or just the veggie food? They are rockin, and I am selling plants at market now and would like to green them up quick.

Best to move the subject. PM me with more details, ie: are you talking about greening up your market transplants? Typically, TTF doesn't come online until marble-sized fruit. You have to change nutrient emphasis as the plants pass into the production phase of the season.

To move seedlings along quickly, feed them 1/2 to 3/4 strength every time you water them.....as long as you over-water 10-15%. Veggie is what you want at this time.

A trick that is used to produce green, stout, bushy, really nice-looking market transplants is to use a growth inhibitor. It keeps the internodes short.

checkerkitty · February 22, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Urbanfarmer

Can you put an automated drip system on them? It'll save you a lot of work and cut down on the BER. You can even go on vacation.

I've thought about it. However, I don't think they are legal in my city. We are already in stage 2 water restrictions and drip irrigation isn't allowed.

OldHondaNut · February 22, 2013

Are you sure? Most cities approve of drip irrigation as a way to SAVE water. I would check to see if you can drip during the week when you can water. When we limit to two days a week for watering, the drip is still ok for 7.

February 22, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keger

Little thread jack here... But Ed, do I want to do the Texas Tomato food yet or just the veggie food? They are rockin, and I am selling plants at market now and would like to green them up quick.

I don't grow for market, but I do like my seedlings to be thick stemmed and dark green when I plant out. 1/4 teaspoon of Miracle Grow per gallon of water started ten days before plant out does it for me. Thats bottom feed only. I don't like my seedling tops to ever get wet before plant out.

Ted

February 20, 2013	#32
Mojo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 317	Richmond, eh? I was just living in Clodine only one summer ago... Get 'em in the ground early and be ready to cover. Anything over 80 days is really pushing it around here, as a rule. Atkinson rules! but it is a late finisher, no matter what the descriptions actually say. Black Krim will also do fine, as will Cherokee Purple, Goose Creek, Kosovo/Hungarian Heart, Dona, Orange-1, Azoytchka, JD's C-Tex, Berkeley Tie-Dye, Pork Chop, Hawaiian Pineapple, Gregori's Altai, B/B Boar, Bloody Butcher, any hybrid sold at the big box store (ain't nothin' wrong with Celebrity, folks!), and any cherry you can lay hands on. __________________ There is no logical response to the question, "Why won't you let me plant more tomatoes?"

February 21, 2013	#35
Urbanfarmer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Freeport, Texas Posts: 134	South of Houston, my experience has been.....no problem growing any kind of tomato you want if you sprout your seeds in early Jan and get them outside by mid-Feb, preferably 12" tall. What the northerners don't know is that we really don't have the long growing season they think we do. We have two short seasons: Spring and Fall/Winter. Summer is so brutal that most folks plan on their gardens being done by July 1. Take a break, and start germinating again in mid-August. That's what we do, and we've been very successful. We grow all the heirlooms and hybrids in those two seasons. We tried Solar Fire through one summer. We had huge plants and tons of tomatoes, but we literally threw hundreds of them away because the quality was so bad. If you look at my avatar picture, that is a row of Solar Fire. Terrific pollination in the heat, awful tomato. __________________ theurbanfarm.com

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February 21, 2013	#33
pilgrimfive Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: killeen Posts: 3	I'm in Killeen and the last two years have been brutal on the plants. I had eight plants of various varieties (from WalMart) and non of them did well. REALLY hot and the Earthboxes probably need the soil changed. I think I used a 50/50 mix of garden dirt and compost that may have had some residual chemicals. The plants showed signs of something that I could not recognize the cause for.

February 21, 2013	#34
Dewayne mater Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2008 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 1,212	Hello Pilgrim: ;-) I have only one earthbox, but several of Raybos earthtainers. I found that the soil mix earthbox sent remained wet and caused things to rot. I switched over to Rays tested 3:2:1 mix and the EB did well. Check out his posts in the how to section for details on the soiless mix. Good luck. Dewayne mater.

February 22, 2013	#36
charley Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: copperas cove TEXAS Posts: 637	copperas cove -1hour north of austin. blush, lime green salad,black plum,sun gold,tigers paw,all did well.but like they say plant early

February 22, 2013	#37
Keger Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Richmond, TX Posts: 327	Seeing a few new buds on Pecan trees.... It's officially on...

February 22, 2013	#39
OldHondaNut Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Zone 8a Posts: 120	I agree with the early and two seasons and only a couple of indeterminates are strong enough to carry both seasons. Last year Amish Paste and Large Red Cherry made it. Most years I can get a Better Boy to be strong enough to out produce a new fall transplant. About the early, I look at the last average freeze date. A week before that date, my tomatoes are ready and if the weather looks good and the soil is warm, they go in. If not, I wait until it is. That could also be a week late. Develop a second group in case of hail or a late freeze. You can always cover if it gets cold the first week or two but the soil has to be warm. If you buy transplants, get them early. The box stores get shipments early and some do not water or bring them in from the cold. Buy them early but don't plant them until the time is right.

February 22, 2013	#40
checkerkitty Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 239	I've already started planting. I put about 13 plants in buckets/pots on Sunday. This weekend I'll be prepping the rest of the garden for plant out next week. I've never planted this early with such large seedlings. Fingers crossed that it's a great year. I know I'll be doing a lot of watering. It's going to be a very dry season, I'm afraid.