Wal Mart 18 and 20 gallon containers

[TomatoDon]

Hi all,

I recently found some 20 gallon containers at WalMart that are 24" X 18" and 18" deep. I've always used standard nursery containers and wondered how well the Wal Mart containers hold up to the weight of handling soil and grown tomato plants, and also to the sunlight.

Thanks in advance!

Don

[Barryblushes]

Those are the sizes they use for DYI Earthboxes.There are a few links around showing how to build them or just Google, DYIearthbox.I had a link to one but its down and out of service now.It was through "myhudsonplace" so if that person comes in here maybe they can email you their details.Basically is an 18 gallon tote,some pvc piping and lighting grading with screening.Two pipes are used as wicks from a water storage area inside the bottom of the tote.

[TomatoDon]

Thanks for the info. I've never built a DYI earthbox, but sounds like a good project.

I was also curious how well these type plastic holds up compared to regular nursery grade containers that will last for years.

Thanks!

Don

[jwr6404]

Don
I have 4 that I've used for at least 5 years

[TomatoDon]

Excellent. Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure I'm going to try a few of these this year.

Thanks again!

Don

[rnewste]

Don,

I used 31 gal. Rubbermaid containers that can easily handle 2 good sized plants. The 18" depth on the Walmart one is too deep in my opinion. The 31 gal. are 29" long by 19" wide by 16" high.

I also made a self contained dual tomato cage stake system, and with the 16" depth, was able to adapt the EarthBox Company's automated watering system to my DIY implementation. See the following link for more info and photos.

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...light=aeration

Ray

[TomatoDon]

Ray, I'll have to say that was a pretty fabulous TA (Tomato apparatus) you you made there! Very meticulous and well done. Great job. I guess some of you are going to convince me yet to try a DIY Earthbox!

Thanks Ray!

Don

Did you find the 31 gallon Rubbermaid's at Wal Mart too? And did you notice any ill effects of crowding by having two plants in one EB? Looks like to me it would work fine.

[rnewste]

Don,

I bought the Rubbermaid 31 gal. containers at Lowes for $9.00. They are of superior quality (longer life) than the thin walled ones Walmart sells. I used the cut-out portion of the top cover to make a divider to separate the two plants from each other. See attached photo. Each plant has well over 1 cubic Ft. of potting mix to grow in, which I consider more than adequate for even the largest Brandywine or Neves Azorean Red to prosper in.

Ray

[TomatoDon]

I know this will sound crazy, but bear in mind I've never made, bought, or used an Earth Box.

I see all these designs and such for the bottom water reservoir, which obviously works. The simplistic question that comes to my mind is why can't you just drill some drainage holes about 6 inches up from the bottom so rain water and any excessive watering can just drain out. In the meantime the bottom 6 inches of the container would hold water and naturally wick its way up to keep the roots moist. What's the need for the more complicated design?

That's essentially the theory I use in my potting trays in the warm months and it works fine. I was hoping it would work just as well in plastic containers for growing the larger plants.

Don

[TomatoDon]

Ray, I noticed the divider. Do you think it really helps? I had planned to just put two plants in and let the roots wander.

You have some really good pictures of your DIY EB's. Do you have some shots of the grown plants?

Thanks!

Don

[rnewste]

Don,

Regarding your question re: just drilling a hole 6" up and let the excess water run out, you don't want to have stagnant water sitting at the bottom of your container all the time. This would eventually rot the root system, and do more harm than good.

That is why an "Aeration Bench" is necessary to "separate" the soil from the water reservoir (my design keeps a constant 1/2" air pocket between the water and the soil base). There is an excellent tutorial by "josho" on his construction method at this link:

http://www.josho.com/gardening.htm

I used a 9" square, 6" deep water basket (Home Depot $2.19) as the "wicking" source into the potting mix above the water-line. Here is another TV link where I posed the original question as to the true purpose of the Aeration Screen, and got a lot of good answers from other members here.

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...light=aeration

A lot of your questions should be answered in these two links.

Have fun!!

Ray

[TomatoDon]

Hi Ray,

I've surfed around and seen quite a bit on the internet about watering the EB since my last post. Many say it takes a lot of watering, and I noticed you are now planning to use an automated system. One post (on another site) said they watered everyday, sometimes more.

You mentioned that the 18" depth in one of the Rubbermaids was too much. It seems at this depth the roots wouldn't grow deep enough to touch the water directly in the bottom few inches of the container. And, as fast as the water seems to evaporate, or get used up, as they say it does, there doesn't seem like there would be any stagnant water pooling up inside. Seems it would dissapate/evaporate/etc every few days and not be a problem.

Also, couldn't you just set the EB in a water pan, like you see house plant containers using? That system has been used for centuries, and seems it would work with the EB's just as well. It's just another way to water from the bottom, letting it wick its way up.

Again, I'm new to this and I'm still not sure why all this elaborate watering system of baskets, aeration, drilled holes, pipes, etc. is really needed. Obviously the EB people (as well as you, as shown in those great pictures) have done a lot of experiments to come up with this design, but seems the ways I've mentioned would do the same thing, and be much easier, less expensive, and more effective.

I'm sure there has to be tried and proven reasons for everything in the conventional system but I guess I'll need a little more education on it to understand why these principles work better than others, including the simpler ones I've listed.

You've really got my curiosity up on these things. I'm really looking forward to trying this.

Thanks again!

Don

[rnewste]

Don,

Regarding putting a container in a pan of water, I tried that last year with pots, keeping the pot base filled with about 2" of water all the time, and it turned out to be a total disaster! (See photo below) While the plants did well for the first month or so, half of the tomatoes developed blossom end rot (due to a constantly saturated soil). Live and learn.

So I am using those pots this year (sans base) to grow Maui onions only. All 48 of my tomato plants will be in EarthTainers this year.

There is a good video on how the EarthBox works by Blake (its inventor) at this link:

http://www.earthbox.com/consumer/videos.html

Also, regarding water use, it is my understanding that an EarthBox type container will actually use LESS water than an in-ground plant. The plant drinks in only the amount it needs, and no more. People reporting having to water daily likely have built their EB will a small water reservoir. Again, I am totally sold on the AWS as the best watering solution.

Ray

[TomatoDon]

Hi Ray,

As I remember, the watering issue I mentioned, was with a "factory built" EB. Most everyone on that forum loved the EB's, but some were frustrated that the automated watering system wasn't available for shipping at that time. Most of the manufactured EB's looked to small to me anyway, the ones I saw. I did see what looked like a larger one with wheels on it. I'm guess the ones you make are somewhat larger than the original standard size EB made.


As to the automatied watering system. How well would this work on plain nursery containers?

So much for the water pan idea! Thanks for the info!

Your planting of two plants in one 31 gallon EB really interests me.

Don

[rnewste]

Don,

The limiting factor is that to be able to use the "stock" EarthBox Company's AWS, the filler tube in a DYI design can not be any longer than 15.5". That means if you use a container that is 18" deep, you would need to make a 2.5" "cofferdam" around the recessed 15.5" high tube. That is why the Rubbermaid 31 gallon model with its 16" depth is just perfect for the unmodified AWS.

The 31 gallon Rubbermaids are approx 150% the size of the Company's model, and I just considered them too small to accommodate 2 large Beeksteak tomato plants, which is my personal requirement.

The AWS systems are in stock on their website (received my first 12 two weeks ago, and have another 12 on the way now).

Ray